IIGQ4U

iTrader: (53)

It is only required on one side. This was mentioned early on in the thread.

Rufus2010

iTrader: (3)

On all three diffs, before I opened them up, I could easily feel more free play, much more free play, on one outdrive compared to the other. One side a mininal, tiny amoubt of slop, like a properly (IMO) shimmed outdrive, the other side much more/too much. It looks and feels like about exactly the amount of play that another washer, part #20 in the Sat/Sun gears set, would take care of.

The manual includes this part on both sides. Also, it would be nice if different thicknesses were available from Duratrax.

Also, it seems to me that as standard practice, it is a good idea to shield the orange rubber seal from the rotating pin. And when there is thicker oil in the diff and/or large rotating stresses on the gears, which would tend to push them apart, that drive pin could wear on the seal and even the housing. A steel shim would protect everything.

Also, if your outdrives were a little worn or notched, the dog bone drive pins will settle into those notches and pull hard outwards on the outdrives at full suspension travel, definately pulling those drive pins against the housing. Maybe causing tiny metal filings and therefore wearing everything out.

Anyways, mine are too sloppy regardless.

Rufus2010

iTrader: (3)

I found this posting from 7 months ago. This is how all three of mine were set up. Maybe it was OK at assembly time, but now it needs more than 1 on each side.

I could'nt find any shims good enough for my tastes at the hobby shop, although the Ofna clutch bell shim kit at $5 had some shims that would fit, but they were a little small in outside diameter. I ended up buying a 3/4" wide by 1 foot long strip of thin (.4mm) stainless steel. I can fashion a workable shim out of that. I only need 1. It might be a little thick, but I will fit it up and see. I can sand it down a bit. Whichever outdrive has the most slop will get the first test fitting. It might be just right.

Rufus2010

iTrader: (3)

Ok. I am hoping my rebuilding will quiet down the driveline a little too.

ducatiti

I'm about to install my rear long shocks and machined shock tower.



So which way does it go. Does flat end face the front, having concaved holes facing the rear?

Jon Carlson

iTrader: (48)

If I remember correctly, flat end faces the front and the wing mount fits into the machined area in the back. If you look at it a little bit you'll see what I mean.

mulepic

iTrader: (21)

I don't think it'll fit on that Hotshot in either direction

ducatiti

Thank you. One more thing. I can't seem to thread the shock end to the shaft. I don't have a thread tool or what have you. Any tips?

ducatiti

Just to give you an idea what the difference is between the stock and optional rear long shock.

This thing is looooooooong..... Can't wait to take this to the track.

jdawg53

iTrader: (1)

Not sure how long this sale lasts, but I run these on my DXR8-E quite a bit with really good results.
Equalizers for $11.88

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LR1754&P=DS

J

ducatiti

For a dollar more, aren't the Derringer's better for loose dirt track?

Rufus2010

iTrader: (3)

I don't think you can get Derringers in the C3 (SuperSoft) compound.

Also, I see that the C2 compound (Soft) Equalizers are only $7 a pair. I ordered a set of each.

jdawg53

iTrader: (1)

The Derringers are more of an enduro tire. The Equalizers work REALLY well on loose loamy tracks.

J

Rufus2010

iTrader: (3)

Jdawg,
Have you tried the Equalizers in the C2 compound?

jdawg53

iTrader: (1)

I have
I actually like the C2 better for testing or just having fun due to longer life. The C3's offer up more grip but don't last as long.

It just depends on what you plan on using them for.

I also use the Posse tires a lot too. They prefer a more "groomed" surface than the Equalizers do but offer excellent forward and side grip.

J