Im geting back into 1/10 and i want to know what's the difference between the t4 and the t4.1

factory team wise from what I can tell:

- Gone is the carbon parts
- More aluminum bling including rear hub carriers
- V2 Shocks
- Better slipper setup
- Changes to diff like SC10 (maybe tranny case too, not sure)

Thanks for the help

The HPI wheels are very close to the same offset. They are within .5mm. They are a universal wheel so there are inserts needed to sit right in the hex which is a little bit of a pain in the ass. Because they are a universal wheel they will be a bit higher price than the DE wheels. The DE wheels should retail for $8.00-$9.00 and the HPI wheels are about $10. The HPI wheels do look pretty cool with the spoke pattern they have however the DE Wheels will come in White, Silver, Black and Yellow.

I myself will be sticking with the DE Racing wheels.

1/8 wing on T4.1
 

For the guys that asked, here are some pics and some info on how I mount the big wing on my trucks. Unfortunately I don't have any unmodified wing mounts around to show the trimming I do, so I'll just do my best to explain.

Parts list:

1. RPM Rear Shock Tower (My trucks all have the RPM rear shock tower as well. I'm not sure if this mod will work with the stock tower, as I've never tried.)
2. Jconcepts Wing Mount (I have 2 trucks with Tekno mounts as well, but don't like them as much.)
3. 4ea. Socket head 4-40 screws (I don't remember the length)
4. 2ea. Flat head 4-40 screws
5. 2ea. Flat head 4-40 washers
6. 4ea. 4-40 nuts (I use the plastic shock mount nuts)
7. 2ea. Thick servo spacer

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http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...603_080417.jpg
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http://i514.photobucket.com/albums/t...603_080509.jpg

If you're running them as a hex (meaning you have done a hex conversion on your truck) no extra inserts are needed. They do provide inserts for the wheels in case you are not hex ready.

@UFO

How different does your truck handle with and without that wing?

I have to say that my setup is entirely based around having this type of wing. So when I remove it, my truck handles horribly. However, when I've driven someone else's truck that has a "normal" spoiler setup, I find that it doesn't suit me.

With wing

Pros:

1. Incredibly stable on long fast straights (If I hit a loose spot, etc... I can correct and still keep it pinned).
2. Incredibly stable while jumping (It's tough to get off axis even off of large jumps).
3. Allows me to be less than perfect while using my jumping technique (pinned to base of jump, coast up ramp, power on immediately after landing).
4. Massive amounts of traction in fast areas, and increased traction on slower areas.

Cons:

1. Requires a different jumping technique if you don't offset the weight somehow because the truck becomes tailheavy (almost two ounces in total, but this can be offset with a lighter battery and/or motor).

With stock lexan wing

Pros

1. Truck can probably achieve a higher top speed (I have nothing to support this).
2. Slightly easier to change pitch angles in flight.

Cons

1. Easier to lose traction in corners.
2. Less stable everywhere, but especially on fast straights.

I have a near mint condition Factory Team T4.1 for sale if anyone is interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ech-10-5t.html

Thx.

He is hex'd front and rear.
The HPI hex rims have a funny round hole cutout of the inner part of the hex on the rim. the kit comes with a round washer that goes into it's place to make it flat but even not using the washer when its bolted down it seems to hold. the DE Racing rims just have a tighter fitment...

Just be aware if you're thinking about doing it that the vast majority of tracks will frown on that kind of wing setup on a stadium truck.

Thanks, but no, I have no intentions of doing it. Was just curious as to how it affected the truck.

I mentioned a few posts back that it does not meet any ROAR rules for the class. That being said, I have had no problems running/racing my completely ROAR illegal setup at any track in < expert classes.

I just broke my T4.1 Factory Team Chassis. Is the carbon or composite stronger for replacement? Is there anyway to stop this from happening?

Where on the chassis did it break and how did you break it?