SC10 2wd spinning out on straight and around turns, please help!
#1
SC10 2wd spinning out on straight and around turns, please help!
ae sc10 2wd
tekin rs/17.5 redline(Blinky/motor timing all the way)
81/21 at the moment
FT Shocks F/R: Front Gold/40wt Rear Gray/35wt
Rear toe in 3.0
Front tire stock(putting aka wishbones on today)
Rear tire Jconcept Barcodes green
Battery position at rear for the moment
front and rear camber -1
rear hub ball stud all the way in position
front shock position all the way in tower, a arm out
Rear shock position all the way in tower, a arm inside
25* casters
I have been doing tons and tons of research and have been able to make this truck run better, BUT, im still having a little trouble when I am turning into the straight and the turns after the straight. I have to slow down so much to keep it some what stable otherwise it just spins out and does a 180. The track is hard packed clay. heres a video of the track so you guys can see it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Il5D0XC14EI
I know people hate threads like these but ive done so much research that I cant find anymore new info and just hit a wall.
Please help, I would greatly appreciate it and would like to know what you all think may be the problem and what can I do to get this thing to hook around turns. All input is welcome!
tekin rs/17.5 redline(Blinky/motor timing all the way)
81/21 at the moment
FT Shocks F/R: Front Gold/40wt Rear Gray/35wt
Rear toe in 3.0
Front tire stock(putting aka wishbones on today)
Rear tire Jconcept Barcodes green
Battery position at rear for the moment
front and rear camber -1
rear hub ball stud all the way in position
front shock position all the way in tower, a arm out
Rear shock position all the way in tower, a arm inside
25* casters
I have been doing tons and tons of research and have been able to make this truck run better, BUT, im still having a little trouble when I am turning into the straight and the turns after the straight. I have to slow down so much to keep it some what stable otherwise it just spins out and does a 180. The track is hard packed clay. heres a video of the track so you guys can see it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Il5D0XC14EI
I know people hate threads like these but ive done so much research that I cant find anymore new info and just hit a wall.
Please help, I would greatly appreciate it and would like to know what you all think may be the problem and what can I do to get this thing to hook around turns. All input is welcome!
#2
First thing make sure none of the wheels hexes or pins are stripped if those are good I would buy the aluminum rear hubs and the carbon fibers tops for them this will give you a lot more traction and rear end stability next try moving to a softer compound tire, try going to 35 weight front and 30 weight rear for shock oil also try running you diff tighter. do you have the ballast weight in your car if not I would run that to give some more traction. I see that you are running the sofftest jconcepts tire get some sticky kick roja and sauce the tire up good.try going to the 3.5 degree rear toe block. Hope this helps
Last edited by JoshCorti11; 02-13-2012 at 11:48 AM. Reason: .
#3
Tech Elite
iTrader: (53)
A couple of questions for you..
1) are you running the same tire and rubber compound as those with lots of traction?
2) are you running a ball diff?, if so does it feel griddy and when was the last time you've rebuilt it with new parts?
3) Is your radio/throttle expo set to 0%
4) Have you done a factory reset to your RS with the hotwire?
(eliminating any possible poorly tuned throttle profiles)
5) Is your slipper set right?
6) did you check to see if the contral arms are binding when you take the shock off the chassis?
1) are you running the same tire and rubber compound as those with lots of traction?
2) are you running a ball diff?, if so does it feel griddy and when was the last time you've rebuilt it with new parts?
3) Is your radio/throttle expo set to 0%
4) Have you done a factory reset to your RS with the hotwire?
(eliminating any possible poorly tuned throttle profiles)
5) Is your slipper set right?
6) did you check to see if the contral arms are binding when you take the shock off the chassis?
#4
Two things I would look at. How tight is your slipper? What is your EPA set at for the throttle? On lower traction tracks I back both off. I've had the EPA as low as 120 out of 140 to get around the track.
#5
A couple of questions for you..
1) are you running the same tire and rubber compound as those with lots of traction?
2) are you running a ball diff?, if so does it feel griddy and when was the last time you've rebuilt it with new parts?
3) Is your radio/throttle expo set to 0%
4) Have you done a factory reset to your RS with the hotwire?
(eliminating any possible poorly tuned throttle profiles)
5) Is your slipper set right?
6) did you check to see if the contral arms are binding when you take the shock off the chassis?
1) are you running the same tire and rubber compound as those with lots of traction?
2) are you running a ball diff?, if so does it feel griddy and when was the last time you've rebuilt it with new parts?
3) Is your radio/throttle expo set to 0%
4) Have you done a factory reset to your RS with the hotwire?
(eliminating any possible poorly tuned throttle profiles)
5) Is your slipper set right?
6) did you check to see if the contral arms are binding when you take the shock off the chassis?
Running the gear diff, took it apart 3 days ago and ran 5000 in it
Radio I do believe its at 0% but will double check when I get home, throttle epa was at 125 which is the highest on my radio, I now have it at 120 at the moment
Yes, and im running profile 2
Im going to be checking my slipper as well, it seems to be at a good spot, but will go over that soon
No binding at all
#6
Tech Regular
4 degree rear toe block worked for me. I was really surprised how much a .5 degree diff made in handling. Rear tires per track you run on. Ask the fast guys with a 2wd truck what they run. Good luck.
#7
Personally I would go a little lower on the EPA. Also, as far as the rear end being loose in the corners, is it possible that the front end has too much grip creating a "loose" situation? Try playing with throttle expo as well.
#10
I would perhaps try turning down your steering dual-rates, which decreases the amount of steering through left/ right. This might seem somewhat counterintuitive but essentially the front tires are steering more than the car is capable of doing.
This would be similar to running front tires with less grip, in that you are reducing how much 'steering' you get from the front.
If after you turn it down to around 80% or so and you still have this problem. Then I would simply check your shocks, and then compare your setup to a base setup online.
This would be similar to running front tires with less grip, in that you are reducing how much 'steering' you get from the front.
If after you turn it down to around 80% or so and you still have this problem. Then I would simply check your shocks, and then compare your setup to a base setup online.
#12
Im going to have to give a try with the 4* toe block.
Your definitely right that probably I should try and use a gold instead of green for clay, I know some guys have greens and some have golds, they seem to all do well, but before I do try the golds, I would like to see if I can do some tuning first before spending money, the greens so far have givin me the best rear grip that i have tried so far.
Your definitely right that probably I should try and use a gold instead of green for clay, I know some guys have greens and some have golds, they seem to all do well, but before I do try the golds, I would like to see if I can do some tuning first before spending money, the greens so far have givin me the best rear grip that i have tried so far.
#13
I will be lowering my throttle on my spektrum as well and test that out for sure
#14
Tech Initiate
Wow, I didn't even know AE had a gray spring. No matter, it's right next to silver.
I would try dropping to blue springs/35wt up front and gray springs/30wt oil in the rear. That should even out your front-rear traction balance.
You also didn't mention your anti-squat. Maybe set it to 2 degrees or so.
Bear in mind that the REALLY fast drivers prefer a setup that lets them turn on a dime, and that means a looser rear end. They use throttle control to gradually accelerated after turns. The rest of us use a more forgiving balanced setup.
I would try dropping to blue springs/35wt up front and gray springs/30wt oil in the rear. That should even out your front-rear traction balance.
You also didn't mention your anti-squat. Maybe set it to 2 degrees or so.
Bear in mind that the REALLY fast drivers prefer a setup that lets them turn on a dime, and that means a looser rear end. They use throttle control to gradually accelerated after turns. The rest of us use a more forgiving balanced setup.
#15
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Honestly your best bet is to ask one of the local fast guys, mod or stock, what setup they are running. They will be able to help you way more than anyone on this forum. I've never ran the sc10 and I know everyone here is trying to be helpful but some of the suggestions are a bit questionable in my opinion.
This setup from AE's site is using the same rear tires and the spekrum track looked similar to the video you posted above.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...hamps_2010.PDF
Also take the oil out of the gear diff and run grease, you may lose some forward drive out of the corners but it will not spin out as easy.
This setup from AE's site is using the same rear tires and the spekrum track looked similar to the video you posted above.
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...hamps_2010.PDF
Also take the oil out of the gear diff and run grease, you may lose some forward drive out of the corners but it will not spin out as easy.