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Old 12-22-2004, 09:36 PM   #16
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The only things ive goe through are rims(I HIGHLY reccomend dish rims, they hold up well) and spurs.
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Old 12-23-2004, 11:25 AM   #17
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i had one for about 4 yrs maybe, baught it at the same tiime i baught my tc3 racer kit.

i never broke anything till i starting taking it to the track. i was running a 10 turn over geared some some 2400 matched stick packs, it hauled ass but i cracked the rear of the chassis, i rigged it back togehter with some lexan some glue and some creative screw placement, i ran it like that for 2 more yrs, just sold it last spring. i miss that car, it was the only car i ever had that i just played with not raced
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Old 01-06-2005, 01:11 AM   #18
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Hey guys, I have just bought mine and started building it. Is there anything I should look out for when building it?? So far no issues and its almost done. Drivetrain does seem to be a bit rough though
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Old 01-07-2005, 07:30 PM   #19
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How well does the cover with the two dudes on keep all the dirt and debris out of the belts etc.?

Cheers
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Old 01-08-2005, 12:24 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by Inferno
How well does the cover with the two dudes on keep all the dirt and debris out of the belts etc.?

Cheers
It works awesome. I've never had a hint of a problem.
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Old 01-09-2005, 07:01 AM   #21
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Yeh, I've got mine all together without electrics at the moment. I'm going to be running a 19t in it so it should be great fun for bashing around.

Like Turbo Joe said, it does seem to be very enclosed and its a clever design to hold the bottom and top sections of the inner body together tightly. Only concern I have is that there is an area for debris to get in through where the steering arms go, but its not that big a deal I don't think. I'll only know once I start running the thing, but so far... all good.

Something that I didn't even think about when I bought the car (my dad noticed this) is that if you run the car without the outer shell and remove the body posts, it actually looks like a buggy which is pretty cool I think. Really makes this car a very versatile little unit. I'll post pictures of the car when I get a chance too. At the moment its all painted and built, just needs the rear wing to be cut, decalled and attached and its all done. Great kit, even if the build quality isn't as good as a Tamiya kit which is what I've become accustomed to.
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Old 01-21-2005, 08:22 AM   #22
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I'm working on an engineering project that requires an electric RC car. I have an HPI RS4 Rally. I custom fit some 1/8th scale OFNA buggy wheels on the car for increased ground clearance and reduced rolling resistance over bumps and such. Rigged up some T-Maxx shocks too...





Problem is, the 1/8th wheels/tires are about double the diameter of the stock 1/10th wheels and tires. So my gearing was doubled. I've tried getting the smallest toothed pinion and largest toothed spur (I think I'm something like 12/96 now), but its still way too weak. I have an unknown motor, I think it might be a 16T, and was running a second rate ESC on used NiCads. Yes, I realize just getting good parts to replace these will help a good deal, thats where you guys come in. What size/spec/brand motor should I get (no restrictions, doesn't have to be "legal"), which ESC, and obviously some new 1800mA or more NiMH battery packs will be needed. Here's what I was planning on upgrading to:

1. Lowest turn motor, which is what? 12 Turn?
2. Higher dollar ESC like a Rooster or Super Rooster
3. 1800mA(or +) NiMH batter packs, maybe 7 cell?

Do I need the fancy $100+ ESC or will a $60-70 one with less bells and whistles work? The car will see lots of part throttle, so the ESC's transistors get worked pretty hard. I burned out my cheap-o $25 ESC last year. The car only has to run for about 30 seconds at a time, and only at about 3/4 throttle when using the stock 1/10th wheels/gearing.


Also, here's a shot of my Traxxas Nitro 4Tec, currently in complete disassembly while receiving a 2.5 engine swap and "rally" conversion...
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