madweazl

iTrader: (12)

I'll toss my $.02 into the pot. I've had the 22 for about 2 weeks now (think I'm on my 5th race). I've gone through a ton of setup changes learning the car (changes based on my experience vice setups posted online). These changes have made the car better each time until this last week when I went to the short batteries (whole different car). One thing I've found with the 22 is that I cant drive it like I have previous cars. It carries a lot of speed through the corners and over the years, I've been pretty aggressive as a point and shoot driver. Out of traffic, I can carry a lot of speed but in traffic, I cant be as aggressive as I was and tend to give up certain lines quicker than I normally do. Some people say the diff is great for them but after 25 years of building diffs, I find nothing favorable on the 22.

On the plus side, the car is extremely easy to maintain. While assembling the rack, I thought it was a terrible design. Having run it for a while, I actually like it. The geometry is great and while it has developed considerable slop, very little of that actually translates to the handling of the car.

I really wanted to give the Durango a shot but they were out of stock when I went shopping locally. That being said, I do own the 410 and I found the fit and finish to be average at best. I was hoping for Tamiya/Xray quality but it is on par with Losi/Associated. In terms of maintainability, I find the Durangos to be a huge pain in the ass. While I applaud their efforts into all out performance, the lack of engineering towards maintainability is just ridiculous. Let me know how long it takes to rebuild a diff. Now with that said, the diff seems to have a much longer servicable life than the 22 based on what I've seen at the local track. The local fast guy running the 210 has had issues with ball cups and the front rack. In regard to the 22, I've had issues with breaking rear arms and the diff (I've rebuilt it 4 times in 5 races trying to keep is silky smooth). I dont believe either of us have missed a main do to failures racing twice weekly. The fastest lap I've seen from the 210 is a 16.5. I've seen a 22 do a 16.1 (my fastest is a 16.7) and the fastest lap we've had thus far is a 15.8 (last night) posted by an B4.1 (all lap times on the same layout).

Observing the 210, it looks to have good off power steering with great forward bite (traits I usually prefer). My experience with the 22 so far has been that I'd prefer more mid/exit corner speed and more side bite out back. Setups that get the steering response I like tend to be a bit more loose than I'd like. It has had exceptional forward bite and great turn in on all my setups thus far.

Phil and I just switched to shorties and were playing with setups (I've seen Phil run a 16.4 or regulars and my best is 16.7 on regular length batteries). 1st qual, my on/off switch got hit so I had a SLIGHTLY longer than normal lap lol (moved the switch after that).

thorns

iTrader: (2)

Bit of a bump on this thread.

Just looking at buying either one of the two in this thread title, or possibly the RB5 SP2. Will be running on a large low traction/dusty/bumpy 1/8 nitro track so trying to figure out which will be the best option.

Seems from earlier on in this thread the Losi and Rb5 were perhaps the best option for a the track type mentioned above, but the DEX210 was still reasonably new. Would the Losi and RB5 still seem the best choice? Cant quite stretch for the RB5 WC, so with that in mind, would it perhaps bump the 22 to the top of the list?

Any thoughts? This is the track I will be running at,

+ YouTube Video

Thanks

Muggydude

iTrader: (92)

I would have agreed with this to a certain point until I tried a new setup a few weeks ago on our local Small, tight, high traction clay track.

The new setup is so much more hooked up in the rear, and it TURNS like a unicycle, I mean damn- it's fantastic.

Before the change, I always felt like the car was kind of "on edge" and could lose the line if you didn't concentrate. After the change, I ran one of my best indoor races ever.

The setup is for the most part Matt Chamber's, who runs at our local track.

Here's the setup:

Front:
30wt oil
55 pistons
orange spring
Middle on tower - inside on arm
3mm limiters

spindles middle
1mm bump steer washer
#1 camber link w/ 2mm shim - 1mm under caster block ballstud
25 deg kick with 5 deg blocks
24.5mm ride height
-1 camber
.5 degrees toe out

Rear:
25wt oil
55 pistons
WHITE spring
Middle on tower - inside on arm
1-b camber link w/ 1mm washer on inside and outside
Hubs middle with 1.5mm hexes
4 degrees toe
3.5 degrees antisquat
-1.5 camber
24 mm ride height

Misc:
3800 Xcelorin "short pack" forward with 1 and 1/2 pad in front
Proline Hi Down Force Wing

Gold Bar Codes Front, stock foam
Gold Bar Codes rear, proline cc foam

tomdav

iTrader: (44)

I run on a med/low traction track all summer and the rb5 has had the best results so far. We have had guys try the b4+8 and even a stretched rb5 at our ROAR regional race only to switch back to the shorter chassis. The 22 seems to suffer as traction drops so they have not had very good results. The DEX was not available but I have no doubt it should be a good buggy for your conditions. I'm really looking forward to trying the RM4 config., is it May yet?

M3Armand

It's been 8 months since the last post here. So given the amount of time that has passed, is the DEX210 still favorable over the TLR22? Any new opinions? Is there still a spare parts issue with the DEX210? I'm in the market for either. Thanks in advance!

Matt Howard

iTrader: (6)

with Hobbico purchase of Durango there is no problems getting parts, your shop just has to order them or you can get them through Towerhobbies. I would say both cars are capable, it's just up to what you prefer.

bronc4now

iTrader: (43)

Dex210 > tlr22

Cain

iTrader: (291)

so, what are peoples opinions now?

murky123

we have such a track like you describe. i have ran a 22 for about 4 months before I switched to the durango.
on low grip the 22 is terrible. and the rango has much more grip at the rear end.

it seems to me that the 22 is made for high grip US clay, but not for outdoor low grip tracks

ryanpatrickgore

iTrader: (14)

b4.1 > rango > 22

M3Armand

I'm in the final stages of building my DEX210. The design of the chassis and gearbox is pretty brilliant. It's pretty clever and it probably took a long time to design. I'm seriously not very impressed with the instructions and I'm seriously not very impressed with the huge parts count. Further, there are so many different types of hardware sizes that I think they could have taken another step to "simplify" the hardware selection. They love their screws and this kit seemingly has a pretty high screw count. If it wasn't for the video and additional "in the pits" section of Durango's website. I seriously would not have been sure if I put the kit together correctly...and I consider myself to be a very meticulous and experienced builder. Although I haven't done so, I think it would be very easy to strip the plastic parts by overtightening if you're a novice builder. I also don't like how each suspension arm is unique. I think it would have been nice if the left/right sides were the same. But I don't know if the other cars' arms are the same on each side either.

If the price point were the same, I would have considered the RB6. I definitely would not have gotten the TLR22. If I know for a fact that I would never need the mid motor setup, although it's old, I would have gotten whatever the latest incarnation of the B4 is. But since I like to tinker and play with mid/rear setups for fun (I'm only concerned about fun racing vs serious racing), I'd get the DEX210 once more for the price point. Again if the prices were the same, I'd consider the Kyosho RB6.

Shirk

iTrader: (1)

DsWright

iTrader: (5)

You have to make a few minor changes, but if you can't get it to handle as well as or better than the other cars, your doing it wrong.

some 22 setups lack a bit of balance for when the traction drops. But that comes down to how you set it up.

My 22 is very consistent even when grip changes. I usually only have to change tires, and maybe shock oil. not much else deviates from my standard setup

F1Yankee

M3Armand, where do you race?

murky123

minor changes?? sorry??

the fastest guy at you track tried it for a whole season.
he tried :
lots of extra weight
drilled extra holes in the armes for extra mounting options shocks
flipped the rear armes left/right
he tried everything.

then he bought a b4 and he was faster on the low grip track with his b4 then with his tlr 22

face it. the 22 suffer on low grip tracks. I have seen it myself and have seen it with others