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Old 12-07-2014, 01:37 PM
  #6916  
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Originally Posted by Jordan Anderson
You do have to buy 2 fronts and a +3mm rear if you need to replace the shafts. If you replace some of the aluminum drivetrain parts with the RTR steel parts, they'll wear less. The extra weight is irrelevant in e-buggy imo.
thanks but this info is why i came here to dive deeper. i know the available options... but is there a cross reference number from another vehicle that fits. paying $34 bucks is riiipofff!!!
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Old 12-07-2014, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by johnbugman
thanks but this info is why i came here to dive deeper. i know the available options... but is there a cross reference number from another vehicle that fits. paying $34 bucks is riiipofff!!!
No, not that I know of.
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Old 12-07-2014, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by johnbugman
I have huge amounts of play in the spot you speak of plus everywhere else. team associated should be ashamed of the build quality in there parts... why did they make these out of metal? all the new cutting edge buggys are plastic. the amount of play in the hubs/axles/anywhere 2 parts connect is unacceptable. this buggy new off the showroom floor cannot hold an alighnment. completely unaccaptable. where the steel pins mounts tons of play.
I used a washer that is usually used on the top and bottom of the shock pistons. The ID is the right size for the pin and the OD is a good size. It takes up enough of the slop to feel content with it.

These 8th buggies and truggies have a lot of slop. Using your setup station is just gonna drive you into insanity. lol Trust me though... you would hate the way it handled if it had zero slop.

Originally Posted by johnbugman
anyone know which low cost option i can use to get a front and rear center set of driveshafts? all i can find is you have to buy 2 fronts and one rear +3mm for around $32 bucks. waaaay too much for these parts. just trying to tighten up my center driveline
The least expensive way is to buy replacement pins and the installation tools. As long as you dont bend the bone then youre good to go with replaced pins...
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Old 12-07-2014, 04:38 PM
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I just wanted to say that i got to wheel the buggy this weekend with the new VCBs installed. Well worth the money if you plan on keeping the chassis like i am. The front end was planted, direct, responsive, i felt connected... it completely changed the way the car felt. I dare say it felt similar to the last Mugen buggy i drove... just a tad more responsive.
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:27 AM
  #6920  
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Default created a RC8.2e Facebook group to join
hey folks- I started a Facebook group for those of us who run a RC8.2e, to chat, share info, ask others questions, etc. Join in if you wish….


search FB group called "Team Associated RC8.2e Owners"
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Bamaengineer
hey folks- I started a Facebook group for those of us who run a RC8.2e, to chat, share info, ask others questions, etc. Join in if you wish….


search FB group called "Team Associated RC8.2e Owners"
Isn't that what rctech is for?
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Old 12-09-2014, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Jordan Anderson
Isn't that what rctech is for?
I do it for quad groups....just another medium of communication
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Old 12-21-2014, 05:41 PM
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Rebuilt my diffs this weekend and on the front bulkhead I noticed the pinion gear seems to have a little more play than I remember it having. I've heard of people adding a second shim to each side of the diff by the outdrives, but what about the pinion?
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Old 12-31-2014, 07:21 PM
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Has anyone tried any of the GPM parts for the rc8.2e? I wanted a set of aluminum hubs for the rear but they're like 60 bucks for the AE ones. The GPM ones look pretty nice and they're only 25 bucks.
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Old 12-31-2014, 07:28 PM
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The only experience with the GPM parts was with my RC18t. The parts fit, but the hardware was a different pitch and would not work with the stock hardware.
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Old 12-31-2014, 07:34 PM
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Never heard of GPM...
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Old 01-01-2015, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Jordan Anderson
Never heard of GPM...
Yeah they seem to be a little more obscure than some of the other hop up companies. I've got a GPM bellcrank and caster blocks on my Rustler and they are pretty nice parts.

They make stuff for quite a few different brands.

http://www.gpmracing-parts.com/shop/...-90014028.html
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Old 01-01-2015, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bash bros
Yeah they seem to be a little more obscure than some of the other hop up companies. I've got a GPM bellcrank and caster blocks on my Rustler and they are pretty nice parts.

They make stuff for quite a few different brands.

http://www.gpmracing-parts.com/shop/...-90014028.html
Looks like some questionable (Bend easy) quality stuff judging by the pictures.

I'd just stick with the plastic hubs honestly. The new ones have 3 adjustment holes and they're pretty tough. Even held up to abuse pretty well in a Truggy.
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Old 01-01-2015, 03:40 PM
  #6929  
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I agree, the plastic (3-hole) rear hubs seem fine.
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Old 01-05-2015, 10:55 AM
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Can anyone tell me if either Kyosho or HB's shock caps will direct fit on the AE's bodies? Looking to replace the stock caps for a better mount.

Thanks, Krom.
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