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Team Associated RC8.2e Thread

Old 10-13-2013, 03:15 AM
  #5386  
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Originally Posted by homershoots
Marka the reverse problem is a known issue with the rtr radio, buy yourself a new radio and never look back, the sway bar links on the rtr will seperate easily especially if the droop isn't set correctly, get the ft links and swaybars (eBay or dollarhobbyz directly) center your trim back up then remove the servo horn screw and center that after doing that if the wheels still or off adjust the link from the servo horn till they are.

Marka and MO3racer loosen the servo saver adjustment nut some (make sure you can grab both sides of the saver and feel the spring action) the will help save the stock servo for a little while and prevent the plastic servo horn from breaking. An aluminium would be best though.
Sifting through the ft parts now, making a list. Thanks for the info
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by homershoots
Marka the reverse problem is a known issue with the rtr radio, buy yourself a new radio and never look back, the sway bar links on the rtr will seperate easily especially if the droop isn't set correctly, get the ft links and swaybars (eBay or dollarhobbyz directly) center your trim back up then remove the servo horn screw and center that after doing that if the wheels still or off adjust the link from the servo horn till they are.

Marka and MO3racer loosen the servo saver adjustment nut some (make sure you can grab both sides of the saver and feel the spring action) the will help save the stock servo for a little while and prevent the plastic servo horn from breaking. An aluminium would be best though.
Thanks for the info homershoots but I figured out my issue. the screw on the servo that holds the horn got loose and that's why it stripped the horn since the servo has metal gears I need to use a dab of loctite on the screw.
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by DoogieLee
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...c10-2-4wd.html

Its been done, and its very competitive and effective. Only problem is its at 299 mm's. Max legal width for 4x4 SC is 296.

Myself and another guy ran them on 2s with RevTech 4800kv 4 pole motors and Tekin RX8's for nearly 6-8 months and they worked great.

I was thinking of just leaving it in Buggy trim, not the SC conversion.

has anyone found limitations to running an 11.1V vs 22,2v? I know SOME escs like the Even # for lipo and I wanted to know if I was going to cook anything if I did decide to try something smaller (my traxxas VXL BL System comes to mind.)

I would presume something 8th scale ESC and using a smaller motor would be better than trying to run a larger motor with a smaller ESC?

In all reality I would probably go all 8th scale electronics, and just lessen the battery. Its just hard to swallow the cost of a good competitive 8th scale setup. (looking at SP or HW for options).



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Old 10-13-2013, 12:36 PM
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I would not recommend the VXL system for an 1/8th sized vehicle. You will most definitely cook the system. The 1/8th electronics are the way to go.
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:24 PM
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I have a RC.8 that converted to the eBuggy, I just used the setup that I had from nitro, is there a good or any setups to look at for the EBuggy? I have the first release of the car and it was very good in nitro, also meaning I dont have all this new hop ups people are using, mine as pretty much box stock with small changes....thanks
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Old 10-14-2013, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by roblupo
I have a RC.8 that converted to the eBuggy, I just used the setup that I had from nitro, is there a good or any setups to look at for the EBuggy? I have the first release of the car and it was very good in nitro, also meaning I dont have all this new hop ups people are using, mine as pretty much box stock with small changes....thanks
There are plenty of setups on the Team Associated website. To get setups for the older version, go to the setups page, then select the discontinued models link on the left. Find your buggy and you should be good.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:25 AM
  #5392  
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Originally Posted by Yello
I'm still a bit fixated on chassis braces. I feel as though I'm setting myself up for a bad break if I don't upgrade, since I don't mind a broken plastic chassis brace but what if the chassis bends too?

Are the aluminum rod braces good upgrade vs the alloy chassis brace?

Apparently the Rc8t uses it:

https://www.google.com/search?q=ASC8...&bih=370&dpr=1

I wonder if the above would fit the RC8.2.

Seems like the rods give the best of both worlds - flex/traction AND protection.
i had a rear Al brace but it broke the screw that holds it and brace broke out around the screw on the front side. I like the feel of the plastic better on my track and it bends vs. breaks. I just keep a spare in the box now since they are cheaper.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MOmo
Out of curiosity,

Has anyone tried smaller 10th scale electronics and 4pole 10th scale motor in the 8th scale?

Was discussing this with a fellow racer and how plausible it is. We race on a smaller indoor 10th scale track and if some expansion takes place, its possible they will allow 8th scale buggy, but imo 4s would be too much, so the discussion about the use of 2s or 3s and smaller systems so not to overpower them.


Thoughts?



Momo
I think the RC8 will be too heavy, but Tekno makes a "super light" ebuggy conversion for the SCT410 that is meant to use a 2s 4pole SCT electronic system.
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Old 10-15-2013, 03:57 PM
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Does the rtr have the +3mm chassis?
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Austin214
Does the rtr have the +3mm chassis?
It has the updated +3mm chassis (the "gold" color). There was a chassis prior to the one that is "gold" and it was not very durable from what I've read.

I've had no issues with mine so far.
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Old 10-15-2013, 06:12 PM
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I need to emphasize the importance of preemptively doing something about the ESC if you have the RTR. The tape that holds the ESC in place will fail, and when it does it would be easy to destroy the non-serviceable wire harness for the ESC consdiering that there's very little slack since the receiver wire is routed tight underneath the battery tray. If any of those wires snaps, there's no replacement for it.

Anyway, I didn't like the zip ties so I just gooped my ESC directly onto the tray.
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Old 10-15-2013, 08:45 PM
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In RTR's a lot will fail. Not bullet proof for sure. In all our rtr's, servo, esc, engines for sure. If you you hit stuff prepare to fix it. Should get the Kyosho blue springs tomorrow to try out in my kit.
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Old 10-16-2013, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
i had a rear Al brace but it broke the screw that holds it and brace broke out around the screw on the front side. I like the feel of the plastic better on my track and it bends vs. breaks. I just keep a spare in the box now since they are cheaper.
Another option to consider is the Avid Carbon Rear Chassis Brace.

This will give you a little more rigidity in your rear chassis brace but not sacrificing a snapped screw or bent aluminum. The modifications to the stock plastic brace are extremely easy to do as well.

http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html

TK
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:30 AM
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Hi,

I'm actually testing some prototype parts for the RC8's.
I'm working on the differentials outdrives, but I need to compare with the original ones.
I have seen many RC8 around me, and it seems that there's not only one way to "wear down" the parts.
In my RC8, and maybe because of my personal set-up, I need to change the center shaft pins first, but I can make 30 packs for sure before to change them.
My question is about the shaft pins which fit the outdrives :

What is the "drive train" you "wear down" the more ? Front diff, rear diff, or center diff ? I'm talking about the wear of the shaft pins/diff outdrives.

And can you tell me how many lipos packs can you use before you need to change the shaft pins. I will need some picures of the shaft pins when you think they have to be removed for new ones.

Thanks,
Bye !
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Old 10-16-2013, 12:40 PM
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rear outdrive of the center diff and the pin in the center-cvd wears the most. Hardly no wear on the front and rear diffs/cvds compared to the centerdiff. (RC8b high grip with 2s setup)
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