Team Associated RC8.2e Thread
#5386
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Marka the reverse problem is a known issue with the rtr radio, buy yourself a new radio and never look back, the sway bar links on the rtr will seperate easily especially if the droop isn't set correctly, get the ft links and swaybars (eBay or dollarhobbyz directly) center your trim back up then remove the servo horn screw and center that after doing that if the wheels still or off adjust the link from the servo horn till they are.
Marka and MO3racer loosen the servo saver adjustment nut some (make sure you can grab both sides of the saver and feel the spring action) the will help save the stock servo for a little while and prevent the plastic servo horn from breaking. An aluminium would be best though.
Marka and MO3racer loosen the servo saver adjustment nut some (make sure you can grab both sides of the saver and feel the spring action) the will help save the stock servo for a little while and prevent the plastic servo horn from breaking. An aluminium would be best though.
#5387
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Marka the reverse problem is a known issue with the rtr radio, buy yourself a new radio and never look back, the sway bar links on the rtr will seperate easily especially if the droop isn't set correctly, get the ft links and swaybars (eBay or dollarhobbyz directly) center your trim back up then remove the servo horn screw and center that after doing that if the wheels still or off adjust the link from the servo horn till they are.
Marka and MO3racer loosen the servo saver adjustment nut some (make sure you can grab both sides of the saver and feel the spring action) the will help save the stock servo for a little while and prevent the plastic servo horn from breaking. An aluminium would be best though.
Marka and MO3racer loosen the servo saver adjustment nut some (make sure you can grab both sides of the saver and feel the spring action) the will help save the stock servo for a little while and prevent the plastic servo horn from breaking. An aluminium would be best though.
#5388
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...c10-2-4wd.html
Its been done, and its very competitive and effective. Only problem is its at 299 mm's. Max legal width for 4x4 SC is 296.
Myself and another guy ran them on 2s with RevTech 4800kv 4 pole motors and Tekin RX8's for nearly 6-8 months and they worked great.
Its been done, and its very competitive and effective. Only problem is its at 299 mm's. Max legal width for 4x4 SC is 296.
Myself and another guy ran them on 2s with RevTech 4800kv 4 pole motors and Tekin RX8's for nearly 6-8 months and they worked great.
I was thinking of just leaving it in Buggy trim, not the SC conversion.
has anyone found limitations to running an 11.1V vs 22,2v? I know SOME escs like the Even # for lipo and I wanted to know if I was going to cook anything if I did decide to try something smaller (my traxxas VXL BL System comes to mind.)
I would presume something 8th scale ESC and using a smaller motor would be better than trying to run a larger motor with a smaller ESC?
In all reality I would probably go all 8th scale electronics, and just lessen the battery. Its just hard to swallow the cost of a good competitive 8th scale setup. (looking at SP or HW for options).
MOmo
#5390
I have a RC.8 that converted to the eBuggy, I just used the setup that I had from nitro, is there a good or any setups to look at for the EBuggy? I have the first release of the car and it was very good in nitro, also meaning I dont have all this new hop ups people are using, mine as pretty much box stock with small changes....thanks
#5391
Tech Elite
iTrader: (81)
I have a RC.8 that converted to the eBuggy, I just used the setup that I had from nitro, is there a good or any setups to look at for the EBuggy? I have the first release of the car and it was very good in nitro, also meaning I dont have all this new hop ups people are using, mine as pretty much box stock with small changes....thanks
#5392
I'm still a bit fixated on chassis braces. I feel as though I'm setting myself up for a bad break if I don't upgrade, since I don't mind a broken plastic chassis brace but what if the chassis bends too?
Are the aluminum rod braces good upgrade vs the alloy chassis brace?
Apparently the Rc8t uses it:
https://www.google.com/search?q=ASC8...&bih=370&dpr=1
I wonder if the above would fit the RC8.2.
Seems like the rods give the best of both worlds - flex/traction AND protection.
Are the aluminum rod braces good upgrade vs the alloy chassis brace?
Apparently the Rc8t uses it:
https://www.google.com/search?q=ASC8...&bih=370&dpr=1
I wonder if the above would fit the RC8.2.
Seems like the rods give the best of both worlds - flex/traction AND protection.
#5393
Out of curiosity,
Has anyone tried smaller 10th scale electronics and 4pole 10th scale motor in the 8th scale?
Was discussing this with a fellow racer and how plausible it is. We race on a smaller indoor 10th scale track and if some expansion takes place, its possible they will allow 8th scale buggy, but imo 4s would be too much, so the discussion about the use of 2s or 3s and smaller systems so not to overpower them.
Thoughts?
Momo
Has anyone tried smaller 10th scale electronics and 4pole 10th scale motor in the 8th scale?
Was discussing this with a fellow racer and how plausible it is. We race on a smaller indoor 10th scale track and if some expansion takes place, its possible they will allow 8th scale buggy, but imo 4s would be too much, so the discussion about the use of 2s or 3s and smaller systems so not to overpower them.
Thoughts?
Momo
#5394
Tech Adept
Does the rtr have the +3mm chassis?
#5395
Tech Adept
#5396
Tech Adept
I need to emphasize the importance of preemptively doing something about the ESC if you have the RTR. The tape that holds the ESC in place will fail, and when it does it would be easy to destroy the non-serviceable wire harness for the ESC consdiering that there's very little slack since the receiver wire is routed tight underneath the battery tray. If any of those wires snaps, there's no replacement for it.
Anyway, I didn't like the zip ties so I just gooped my ESC directly onto the tray.
Anyway, I didn't like the zip ties so I just gooped my ESC directly onto the tray.
#5398
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
This will give you a little more rigidity in your rear chassis brace but not sacrificing a snapped screw or bent aluminum. The modifications to the stock plastic brace are extremely easy to do as well.
http://www.avidrc.com/product/5/acce...cessories.html
TK
#5399
Hi,
I'm actually testing some prototype parts for the RC8's.
I'm working on the differentials outdrives, but I need to compare with the original ones.
I have seen many RC8 around me, and it seems that there's not only one way to "wear down" the parts.
In my RC8, and maybe because of my personal set-up, I need to change the center shaft pins first, but I can make 30 packs for sure before to change them.
My question is about the shaft pins which fit the outdrives :
What is the "drive train" you "wear down" the more ? Front diff, rear diff, or center diff ? I'm talking about the wear of the shaft pins/diff outdrives.
And can you tell me how many lipos packs can you use before you need to change the shaft pins. I will need some picures of the shaft pins when you think they have to be removed for new ones.
Thanks,
Bye !
I'm actually testing some prototype parts for the RC8's.
I'm working on the differentials outdrives, but I need to compare with the original ones.
I have seen many RC8 around me, and it seems that there's not only one way to "wear down" the parts.
In my RC8, and maybe because of my personal set-up, I need to change the center shaft pins first, but I can make 30 packs for sure before to change them.
My question is about the shaft pins which fit the outdrives :
What is the "drive train" you "wear down" the more ? Front diff, rear diff, or center diff ? I'm talking about the wear of the shaft pins/diff outdrives.
And can you tell me how many lipos packs can you use before you need to change the shaft pins. I will need some picures of the shaft pins when you think they have to be removed for new ones.
Thanks,
Bye !
#5400
Tech Regular
rear outdrive of the center diff and the pin in the center-cvd wears the most. Hardly no wear on the front and rear diffs/cvds compared to the centerdiff. (RC8b high grip with 2s setup)