HOLY SCHNIKIES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#1




I am PO'd

My castle mmp just broke for the second time!!!
The sensor port in the esc keeps falling off!!!!
I am done with castle!!
I would send it in for repair but the last time i waited three months before i got another one!!!
I think I am just going to buy another tekin rs.Tekin is thee way to go.
I dont like cheap cheap castle!!
You think for the money you can get somthin halfway decent.
Post here if you agree



#2

Somehow I don't think that a part that is soldered to the circuit board 8 times just falls off.... be realistic dude.... either you got some big ol' sausage fingers or yur a kid that thinks ya gotta "push" everything in with a hammer...lol Just pickin' but seriously it is you and not the "cheap castle junk".....

#3

OK, I haven't verified it yet but the last time it was failed solder joints at the connector. This time I have the same glitching/cogging issue when the sensor wire is connected. Last time I resoldered the connector to fix it temporarily but the joints eventually failed again. I plugged it in 1 or 2 times total. I don't plug it in every day, not sure why you would. It failed due to fatigue while on the track.
Has anyone else had the same issue?
Looking for help here, not flames.
Has anyone else had the same issue?
Looking for help here, not flames.
#4
Tech Elite

iTrader: (42)
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: anywhere I can race 2wd dirt,and 1/12 onroad in MI.
Posts: 3,885
Trader Rating: 42 (100%+)

One of my race buddies had the same issue ..Went through 2 of them in just a couple months..I know him well and he takes really good care of his gear..long story short, no more castle esc's for him either...
#5

OK, I haven't verified it yet but the last time it was failed solder joints at the connector. This time I have the same glitching/cogging issue when the sensor wire is connected. Last time I resoldered the connector to fix it temporarily but the joints eventually failed again. I plugged it in 1 or 2 times total. I don't plug it in every day, not sure why you would. It failed due to fatigue while on the track.
Has anyone else had the same issue?
Looking for help here, not flames.
Has anyone else had the same issue?
Looking for help here, not flames.
#6
#7
Tech Master
iTrader: (24)




I am PO'd

My castle mmp just broke for the second time!!!
The sensor port in the esc keeps falling off!!!!
I am done with castle!!
I would send it in for repair but the last time i waited three months before i got another one!!!
I think I am just going to buy another tekin rs.Tekin is thee way to go.
I dont like cheap cheap castle!!
You think for the money you can get somthin halfway decent.
Post here if you agree



You should give hobbywing a try. They are WAAYYY more reliable than castle.
However, castle motors are some of the best uncensored motors on the market.
#8

Yea i might try hobbywing, however i will probably go tekin. The castle speedos are cheap but in return we get cheap quality
#12

Honestly guys all manufactures have had there problems. I remeber here a while back Tekin had speedo problem so has LRP & Novak so I wouldn't say it's just Castle Creations. get ahold of Castle talk to them they are great guys to deal with anytime I have a question about something that I can't figure out or about there products I'll give them a shout. they'll try & help you the best they can I just eneded up buying another Castle speedo because of there support. but I also have speedos from other manufactures out there or at least Novak & LRP. infact I have a Novak that needs to go back & be replaced because it fried it's self literally so like I said just don't blame Castle. just my 2 cents worth.
#13

Y'know what do I do to avoid this issues?
Open the ESC straight away, locate the sensor port, and apply a bit of goo to keep it steady.
I then plug my sensor wire, and hotglue it onto the port, with a gentle blob.
Never had a single issue, in any of the ESCs I've had (Vortex Experience SL 1st gen, Vortex Race Tornado 100A, Castle MMP, Xerun 150A)
Open the ESC straight away, locate the sensor port, and apply a bit of goo to keep it steady.
I then plug my sensor wire, and hotglue it onto the port, with a gentle blob.
Never had a single issue, in any of the ESCs I've had (Vortex Experience SL 1st gen, Vortex Race Tornado 100A, Castle MMP, Xerun 150A)
#14

Buy tekin be done with it yes nothing is bullet proof but tekin service is super dependable and fast also you cannot be beat the smoothness and perforamce with Tekin. Been there with castle great basher units but if you race tekin is top notch.
#15
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)

the second wave or so of mmp's the senor wire harnesses never received the correct amount of solder but this was a very short lived batch. this was the same batch that had the bec problems. You hear much more about the ones that go bad because people talking about them. Even with this batch being bad you send it back to castle and they send you a completely new one
I have been running the castle stuff since the first mamba 25 hit the market including mamba max and I am currently racing the mamba max pro and I can honestly say the only that will burn the esc's up is abuse on the part of the user with the exception of the bad batch or two that has since been long gone.
The castle needs to be setup and updated prettymuch immediatly on a computer right out of the package if you take your time and read what you are doing and why you are doing it you will not have problems.
Abuse to a mmp takes alot to burn up because honestly I am running saddlepacks and messed up wiring them together last weekend so i had my positive and negative plugging in backwards and got it all the way plugged up backwards and it arced for a few seconds flashing sparks everywhere and finally unsoldered the wires from the traxxas conector. This is not an easy thing to do considering I use high temp solder. I was pretty positive the esc was fried however i soldered the traxxas connector back together and I went on to run practice 6 qualifiers and 6 10 minute mains that day with no issues changing from boosted(cheat mode) to blinky mode and back and forth throughout the day without a single issue even with no cooling times between running stock 13.5 come off the stand change timing and then running open.
I have been running the castle stuff since the first mamba 25 hit the market including mamba max and I am currently racing the mamba max pro and I can honestly say the only that will burn the esc's up is abuse on the part of the user with the exception of the bad batch or two that has since been long gone.
The castle needs to be setup and updated prettymuch immediatly on a computer right out of the package if you take your time and read what you are doing and why you are doing it you will not have problems.
Abuse to a mmp takes alot to burn up because honestly I am running saddlepacks and messed up wiring them together last weekend so i had my positive and negative plugging in backwards and got it all the way plugged up backwards and it arced for a few seconds flashing sparks everywhere and finally unsoldered the wires from the traxxas conector. This is not an easy thing to do considering I use high temp solder. I was pretty positive the esc was fried however i soldered the traxxas connector back together and I went on to run practice 6 qualifiers and 6 10 minute mains that day with no issues changing from boosted(cheat mode) to blinky mode and back and forth throughout the day without a single issue even with no cooling times between running stock 13.5 come off the stand change timing and then running open.