fredswain

iTrader: (1)

At least you can tell that the motor is in the correct location!

Roycephus

iTrader: (11)

Well, snapbucket it is. Try this link to see my flipped ARM conversion. Used stock camber link heated and bent, shocks on front of tower, no spacer at bottom eye. Other photos on there are mid motor as well.

http://m1227.photobucket.com/albumvi...fa596a0525.jpg.

And well, here's the pics.

mdwalsh

iTrader: (29)

did you actually bend the link or just the ballcup? how did you measure equally the bend in both sides?

Matt

Roycephus

iTrader: (11)

Just the ball cup. Heated up over a lighter, low flame and an inch above, with link unscrewed three or four threads showing, spinning it between Ur fingers to spread the heat evenly, and only where u want it, not on the ballcup part, but at the junction of the kink and hex of the plastic. Then I bent them exactly 43.5 degrees..... Hahaha. Just kidding, eyeballed em, just trying to make them mirror images of each other. As long as they clear and Ur settings are the same both sides (position and camber) then the distance they span should be the same and thus they'll work the same. I think they could look like a pretzels between the two ballstuds, as long as they're the same length they do the same job.

I couldn't find where to get those nifty tq links, so I made my own. I guess we will see how long they last.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

I'll try to post pics of what I did, it turned out pretty good, I might be able to sell the little ballstud mounts I got made if anyone is interested.

When you bent the rod ends, I'd be concerned with durability, any impact it will want to fold in half, and heating it up may of made it brittle. Let us know how it goes.

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

Instead of bending the ball cups, why not just make a little plate that screws down to the stock ball end locations that mirrors their hole pattern a quarter inch forward or so?

mdwalsh

iTrader: (29)

i want to say that, that is what rcjunky is working on...

i think my soultion would be to an L bracket, that would bolt on to the stock camber link mounts, then the L would be the same height as a sock ball-cup.

so even with the ballstud being horizontal, you would still be able to adjust the roll center the exactly way as stock, with spacers under the L bracket and you could adjust how forward the ballstud actually is with spacers against the L bracket

Matt

Roycephus

iTrader: (11)

I'm with u guys on the durability of heated and bent ballcups, I don't know what that guy Roycephus is thinking! Oh yeah, I think he was thinking bout how to do the least amount of work with the same effect achieved. Laziness, the mother of invention.

Seriously, mid motor is a dog on most tracks round here, I've won two out of four mains this summer with it, and both tracks were more like high-speed, non technical, outdoor types. It won't turn in a ten acre field sometimes, especially on power, so to me it helps when its a little loose to help make the back end come around. I'm running big saddle packs that are heavier than anything else out there and that probably has adverse effects.Car comes in at something like 1600g, a bit more than my rear motor.

So, needless to say, I'm bout ready to give up on it, but thought is try this setup first to see if I like it. Yeah, I could make those little L brackets ( which sound like perfect solution to the prob) but I wanted to see if it was even worth keeping the arms flipped before a permanent solution was made. Still haven't gotten to try it yet. Crcrc Sunday.

I've seen bent ball cups before, anybody know if some will fit the losi ballstuds?

fredswain

iTrader: (1)

I think the biggest mistake that many people make when they try mid motor is not resetting the car up again from scratch. Many people just switch to mid motor and leave everything else the same. This will not work. You will need entirely different spring rates and potentially different shock oil weight or shock pistons. You will need different roll centers as well. There's a lot to it. If you just try to go mid motor but leave everything else as you already have it, you are going to hate it! The car will not work well.

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

Thats exactly what I have, pics tonight for those who prefer them over words

UK.hardcore

My 22T when it gets here will be mid motor i think.

Gwoodrc

iTrader: (66)

I have 2 cars (1 mid/1 rear) and they are completly different in setup. What works for one doesnt nessisarily work for the other. The mid motor is a different therory of setup and its just been a trial and error. I prefer my mid car on our high bite tight indoor track but it is absalute JUNK on anything other than HIGH bite. If you dont have very good to high traction levels I dont think I would even consider it but if you have those grip levels and its set up correctly than its almost an unfair advantage!

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

The 22 most likely is junk on low grip, the motor is too far forward, but something like the x6 where the motor is farther back with the pack going across the chassis, they're awsome. As I said, heres the pics of what I have on the car. Keep in mind the camber link is in the outer hole on the hub with a 2mm spacer and I still needed to shave the inside of it a bit. The parts on there are identical to xfactory e speed hangers but drilled for metric so I needed to dremel the inner hole a bit as I forgot about that when I got the parts made, so I'll have the new version this Wednesday. As I said, pm me if there is more interest in them, I can easily get more made if there is demand as they are all cut on a cnc for fairly cheap, probably for $20 shipped or less (I can find out if there is interest)

2wdMod

iTrader: (42)

good stuff andrew!!

rcjunky1

iTrader: (10)

Just need to find some smller head screws, I think I'll be having fun with file and drill press to turn them down. We'll see how she works on Wednesday.