Losi JRX Pro SE
 

I picked up what I am assuming is a Losi Jrx Pro as that's the box it came in. Anyway my intentions were to get this thing up an running to use at the track, but after some initial research it seems parts are pretty hard to find. Are there any recent losi models that have compatible parts? Is it worth getting up and running? Now I am a little fearful if it get it running of breaking something and not being able to find parts.

Thanks

I have 2 running JRX's and enough parts to build more. There aren't any current cars with compatible parts but fortunately finding replacements isn't that difficult on ebay nor are they necessarily that expensive. There are a few of us that have lots of spare parts. This website has all the info on those cars you could ever want as well as a parts compatibility chart among Losi vehicles:

http://www.vintagelosi.com/Main.html

They are also affiliated with this site which is a good place to find replacement parts:

http://sabulatech.com/storefront/

Don't be afraid to run that car. I love mine. My XX has been on a shelf for 15 years because I prefer the JRX's over it and I still see the occasional XX do well at the track.

Post a few pics of it and I'll tell you exactly what you've got.

the site would not let me insert pics but they are hosted on my site aperturenj.com/RC

That is definitely a Pro-SE. It's a very good car. Just to give you a tip if you want to run modern 2.2 wheels on it, you can run the current Losi or B4 rear wheels on it just fine. Just bolt them on. At the front however I run the RC10GT wide axles and use B4 front wheels. It's a simple solution and works great.

If you want to update to a modern slipper clutch, you can retain the top shaft of your gearbox and then use all B4 slipper parts.

That car also has 2 wheelbase options. I'm not sure if yours is setup in the long position or if it's just an illusion due to the 2" wheels. The wheelbase is adjusted by moving the entire rear of the car to a different set of holes on the chassis. Just look under it and you'll see what I mean. Most people ran the shorter wheelbase. Keep in mind the long wheelbase is so long it isn't even ROAR legal!

cool I'm going to check out the local hobby store for a new body they have some old stock. I picked the thing up for 25

So the local hobby store was a complete waste. I tried getting some info on motor options and how to choose the correct spur and pinnion combo, but was told I was wasting my time. So what should I do try to get the motor that came with it running or pick up something new? How do I figure out the gearing the manual does not list different turn motors, it goes by motor name which is throwing me off. Is it possible to run brushless. At a min I need to pick up a receiver, and esc, I have a 3305s to throw in.

Whats the turn of your motor, I'll give you a starting point.
Yes you can run brushless, up to a 10.5 should be ok but I ran my pro on a 19t/13.5 and it was really good.

All modern hobby shops are going to tell you that you are wasting your time because old cars don't make them any money.

I personally like either 19T brushed or 10.5T brushless (sensored) motors. They are plenty fast.

That is so true! There might be a few shops out there who would care but good luck finding one.

there are some parts including bodies on ebay:

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=losi+jrx+pro

Thanks that gives me a starting point for the motors, I did see the parts on eBay probably going to order a body this week.

Edit: Also I dont know what turn the motor that came with it is, or if it works.

Which is a bit of a fallacy on their part. As an example I took in my JRxT to see if modern batteries would work on it, as the car was in working condition when I put it away. Ended up buying batteries, a charger, and lots of parts for newer cars as I got more interested in the hobby.

Since you seem knowledgeable on the old Losi's mind if I pick your brain on the b4 slipper? Can I do the same thing on my JRxT if I change the shaft? Would modern XXX-T Slipper parts work in place of the B4 stuff, since I already have them?

If you want to reply via PM so as not to further derail that would be fine, thanks.

You can use the modern Losi or AE slipper parts. It doesn't matter. You just need the hyper drive input shaft which is part number A-3120 and then whichever slipper system you intend to use. I prefer the AE parts because their slipper is biggest. I'd actually like to see if I can adapt the slipper from the Traxxas Slash since the monster slipper on that truck is built like a brake system on a car with individual pads. It's big and forboding and durable!

I am running a Gens Ace 5000mah lipo in mine and it is too large to fit the standard battery mounts. The front battery holder is fine but the battery doesn't fit in the bulkhead at the back. I had to cut the top out of the bulkhead and then fabricate a strap to hold the battery down. It's not the big of a deal but there may be lipos that fit without modification.

I am currently getting my JRX-Pro ready to race. It's just about there. I have been on a quest to race a vintage car decently well against the modern cars and have been working on my RC10 but I can't keep that car together very long at the track. I always remembered it being so tough but mine pretty much falls apart when it gets anywhere near a track. I think it's scared! Modern tracks are so different from the tracks that were around when that car was current. I'm giving up on that car and moving to my JRX-Pro. It looks like a race car. It's got tons of adjustability and a nice long wheelbase and can still work very well on today's tracks. It's also very forgiving which is something the RC10 wasn't. It is also an easy car to make very durable. I've got a couple of JRX's. They were great cars.

I rebuilt the transfer and shocks last night, and cleaned up the chassis a bit. I also dropped in the servo however I need to modify the servo arm so it does not hit the top brace.

I use the Losi A5015 shock cartridge seals but substitute the o-rings they come with for a set of x-ring style seals that I get from McMaster-Carr. I also use plenty of AE green slime on assembly. They don't leak at all and are far better than the factory seals which don't seem to take that long to start leaking.

If you want a couple of tips for durability up front there are a couple of things you can do. Remove the front bulkhead from the car. Remove the shock tower. There are only 2 screws that hold the front shock tower on and after the car gets flipped a couple of times these screws can start to pull out. You'll never get them to stay ever again once this happens. Take a small drill bit and drill these 2 holes all the way through the bulkhead. Insert longer screws that go all the way through the bulkhead and then add a 4-40 lock nut on them. Use a washer under the screw head against the shock tower. It'll never move again.

When you put the front bulkhead back on, be very careful not to overtighten the screws. The plastic in this area will strip out very easily. I run a little bit of Shoe Goo on the screw threads. They aren't as likely to ever get damaged. Since you have an upper chassis you are less likely to have a problem but on the cars with only a lower chassis the front end could get completely ripped off in a hard wreck due to these screws stripping. The Shoe Goo prevents this from happening and will only strengthen your car.

The top deck is fairly low above the servo but it was designed around servos that used Kimbrough servo savers rather than tall servo arms. You'll be fine cutting the servo arm down a little bit. You've got plenty of steering travel.