TLR 22T Thread

Old 04-11-2014, 09:49 AM
  #5566  
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper View Post
Ok so I just picked one of these up to expand my indoor racing classes and I was hoping that the first post would have all the tips, tricks and must dos like many of the other threads but no dice. Is there a good synopsis post somewhere in here?

I will be running a 8.5t motor, do I need to get the metal idler gear? I believe the truck I'm getting to be mostly stock...I will be getting Ti turnbuckles a Triad (or Nova) slipper and it seems like many run the Ti shock mounts. What else should I grab?
I bought mine used a couple weeks ago. I heard the Casper setup was a good one. So I printed that setup off and worked from there. Things I bought:

New turnbuckles, the type you mentioned
0,3,5 degree aluminum hub carriers
The offset hex for the rear, I think +1.5 and +1.75

That's it. Mine was stock and used, and I used the Casper setup and I was happy with it. So I didn't buy to much stuff for it, I have spares due to having the buggy 1.0.

It already had the brass 30 kick up and aluminum front block.

I don't think there is much else to buy that you would "need".
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:08 AM
  #5567  
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Originally Posted by Pdub66 View Post
I bought mine used a couple weeks ago. I heard the Casper setup was a good one. So I printed that setup off and worked from there. Things I bought:

New turnbuckles, the type you mentioned
0,3,5 degree aluminum hub carriers
The offset hex for the rear, I think +1.5 and +1.75

That's it. Mine was stock and used, and I used the Casper setup and I was happy with it. So I didn't buy to much stuff for it, I have spares due to having the buggy 1.0.

It already had the brass 30 kick up and aluminum front block.

I don't think there is much else to buy that you would "need".
Thanks. All of the setups I've seen have a few things in common:
  1. 30 deg kick in front. Better to get the 30deg AL block or the std AL block and use shims?
  2. Standard Rear Hex Width. You went wider...why?

The track I will be running on is SMOOTH medium-high grip clay. Also shorty or full pack?
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:15 AM
  #5568  
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper View Post
Thanks. All of the setups I've seen have a few things in common:
  1. 30 deg kick in front. Better to get the 30deg AL block or the std AL block and use shims?
  2. Standard Rear Hex Width. You went wider...why?

The track I will be running on is SMOOTH medium-high grip clay. Also shorty or full pack?
I found a good price on eBay from a seller called hopmeup for all the aluminum items. Talking a $3 bucks for the hex's. So why not get them right? And the titanium turn buckles were cheap. Weight, would be my answer on the difference between the kick ups. But again mine came with it already.

I run a shorty in it, ran it towards the rear, had to much rear weight, moved it all the way up to the front and that helped.

Wider rear felt better mid to exit for me on my buggy so that's why I got the rear hex's.

Only had it out once on a med, bumpy track and it handled great with that Casper setup. I even did the transmission tune. By raising it by 1mm.

Www.petitrc.com has good info on the 22T. I suggest you visit that site and read over everything on there. I did that to get ideas on option parts and tuning.
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:17 AM
  #5569  
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Originally Posted by Pdub66 View Post
I found a good price on eBay from a seller called hopmeup for all the aluminum items. Talking a $3 bucks for the hex's. So why not get them right? And the titanium turn buckles were cheap. Weight, would be my answer on the difference between the kick ups. But again mine came with it already.

I run a shorty in it, ran it towards the rear, had to much rear weight, moved it all the way up to the front and that helped.

Wider rear felt better mid to exit for me on my buggy so that's why I got the rear hex's.

Only had it out once on a med, bumpy track and it handled great with that Casper setup. I even did the transmission tune. By raising it by 1mm.

Www.petitrc.com has good info on the 22T. I suggest you visit that site and read over everything on there. I did that to get ideas on option parts and tuning.
Thanks. Yup been on petitrc, downloaded a bunch of stuff and have been reading.
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:37 AM
  #5570  
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Ran casper's setup for the first time and man this thing pushes. Did not miss a thing out of this setup, it is identical. Had a lot of difficulty steering through technical sections at IR/CR, rear seems well planted, but the steering... Is there anything I can do to approve this setup? Most setup sheets I am finding for this truck are dated. To my knowledge there are no trailing spindles, and the 22 2.0 front upgrades do not work with the 22T.This was a high-bite track, LOTS of grip. Thinking about taking out the blue front springs and going back to green. I was running pressure-points up front and gold barcodes in the rear. Suggestions?
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by JourneyMan View Post
Ran casper's setup for the first time and man this thing pushes. Did not miss a thing out of this setup, it is identical. Had a lot of difficulty steering through technical sections at IR/CR, rear seems well planted, but the steering... Is there anything I can do to approve this setup? Most setup sheets I am finding for this truck are dated. To my knowledge there are no trailing spindles, and the 22 2.0 front upgrades do not work with the 22T.This was a high-bite track, LOTS of grip. I was running pressure-points up front and gold barcodes in the rear. Suggestions?
You try bar codes all the way around?

Could be a tire choice.
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:44 AM
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Push going into the corner or exiting the corner?

I had steering going in and mid, I agree the rear is planted, but I had issues with it pushing on throttle out of the corner.
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Old 04-22-2014, 11:51 AM
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It's pushing on throttle out of the corner. I am going to try the codes up front, was my first thought.
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Old 04-22-2014, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JourneyMan View Post
It's pushing on throttle out of the corner. I am going to try the codes up front, was my first thought.

That's the same effect I was having, and I actually had the same tires on as you did on my 22T.. (to start with)

I personally do not think it's the tires, I tried a set of the bar codes up front and had the same issue... I think there is to much weight transfer to the rear of the Truck once the throttle is applied. (coming out of the tight sections) If the front tires are not touching the track, then I believe there is a different issue... But a minor one at that...

For me it wasn't to far off that fast guys, but I do want to try some minor things with the truck to work on that exit push... (springs, ride height, ball stud washers)
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Old 04-22-2014, 12:04 PM
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I totally laugh at myself with these things. So I get a 22t in a straight swap for a 1/8 esc and motor. Great. But it's pretty stock so now I'm buying $200 worth of parts for it and I haven't even run it yet.
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Old 04-22-2014, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper View Post
I totally laugh at myself with these things. So I get a 22t in a straight swap for a 1/8 esc and motor. Great. But it's pretty stock so now I'm buying $200 worth of parts for it and I haven't even run it yet.
LOL
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Old 04-22-2014, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Pdub66 View Post
LOL
Yea it just adds up real quick: front and rear AL hexes, front 30 deg AL pivot, AVID Triad, AVID caged thrust bearing, ceramic diff balls (diff feels like crap so I'm rebuilding it), AL idler gear, bleeder caps, X-rings and 2.0 machined shock parts, Ti turnbuckles (those were CHEAP on Amazon), F/R AL camber blocks, Kyosho bellcrank conversion...that might be about it. I'm just glad it came with 3 sets of basically unused wheels/tires that will work on the tracks were I race.
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Old 04-22-2014, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Grasschopper View Post
Yea it just adds up real quick: front and rear AL hexes, front 30 deg AL pivot, AVID Triad, AVID caged thrust bearing, ceramic diff balls (diff feels like crap so I'm rebuilding it), AL idler gear, bleeder caps, X-rings and 2.0 machined shock parts, Ti turnbuckles (those were CHEAP on Amazon), F/R AL camber blocks, Kyosho bellcrank conversion...that might be about it. I'm just glad it came with 3 sets of basically unused wheels/tires that will work on the tracks were I race.

Hey for the TI turnbuckles on amazon are they the factory ones or aftermarket
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Old 04-22-2014, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Stevomatik View Post
Hey for the TI turnbuckles on amazon are they the factory ones or aftermarket
Not sure, if you are referring to the hopemeup store, they are TLR branded. I bought four sets. However, bought some kingpins and they were TLR branded, but the nuts were black and the area on the label for the part# appeared to have a sticker over the part number. Not sure if these were a test batch or fakes?
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Old 04-23-2014, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by JourneyMan View Post
Not sure, if you are referring to the hopemeup store, they are TLR branded. I bought four sets. However, bought some kingpins and they were TLR branded, but the nuts were black and the area on the label for the part# appeared to have a sticker over the part number. Not sure if these were a test batch or fakes?
Wow 4 sets... You definitely stocked up... I just bought one set can't beat that price... Great find
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