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Old 04-10-2013, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by norco kid
Forgive me if this has been asked before guys, but I just bought a 22T RTR and I'm having a heck of a time trying to swap the servo out! The way the steering is setup it seems you need a VERY specific shape of servo case. I bought a Solar D770 for it and I cannot for the life of me get it mounted and working correctly! If the spacers behind the servo are too thick, the servo & horn itself gets in the way of the slider, but any less and the ball cup contacts the shock tower brace! Also the horn itself doesn't have enough clearance for the ball cup to actually clear the front case of my servo, and I can't change the horn with another one because any longer or farther out and it will contact either the shock tower brace or slider! I read a post where someone was using the D770 in a 22T and claimed it to fit very well but I am beginning to think it's impossible! Anyone have any suggestions?
I don't know the shape of the solar servos, or how they compare to what came in your 22T RTR -- but the 22 line of cars/trucks do not require a "very specific shape" or size of servo, in fact they're designed to fit any normal sized servos (and the spacers are used to allow one to install most any oddball sized units).
My advice would be for you to reinstall the RTR servo, and see how it's supposed to function, and then give your solar another go.
Otherwise my advice would be to use the search function, and go back through the 22 threads to find the post you're referencing.
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Old 04-10-2013, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by pablo040
I don't know the shape of the solar servos, or how they compare to what came in your 22T RTR -- but the 22 line of cars/trucks do not require a "very specific shape" or size of servo, in fact they're designed to fit any normal sized servos (and the spacers are used to allow one to install most any oddball sized units).
My advice would be for you to reinstall the RTR servo, and see how it's supposed to function, and then give your solar another go.
Otherwise my advice would be to use the search function, and go back through the 22 threads to find the post you're referencing.
This was the post I was referencing and I stand corrected he didn't mention fitment but seems to be happy with them.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10894873-post8.html

Also maybe it is not that the 22 requires a specific shape so much as the Solar servo case has a unique design? The problem is that most servos (including the stocker) have a little bezel around the output shaft that spaces it off from the top of the case a bit. The solar servo's output shaft comes directly out from the flat part of the top of the case. So the stock horn does not position the ball cup far out enough for it to clear the servo. Turning right is not a problem but turning left the ball cup will hit the servo itself. I was thinking of trying to shim the horn off the output shaft, but then there would be less contact area from the spline to the horn so it would increase the chance of stripping it.
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by norco kid
This was the post I was referencing and I stand corrected he didn't mention fitment but seems to be happy with them.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10894873-post8.html

Also maybe it is not that the 22 requires a specific shape so much as the Solar servo case has a unique design? The problem is that most servos (including the stocker) have a little bezel around the output shaft that spaces it off from the top of the case a bit. The solar servo's output shaft comes directly out from the flat part of the top of the case. So the stock horn does not position the ball cup far out enough for it to clear the servo. Turning right is not a problem but turning left the ball cup will hit the servo itself. I was thinking of trying to shim the horn off the output shaft, but then there would be less contact area from the spline to the horn so it would increase the chance of stripping it.
Honestly, there are times (and this seems like one of them) when it's just not worth messing with oddball equipment, and just spend the money and get a decent standard sized servo.
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by norco kid
Forgive me if this has been asked before guys, but I just bought a 22T RTR and I'm having a heck of a time trying to swap the servo out! The way the steering is setup it seems you need a VERY specific shape of servo case. I bought a Solar D770 for it and I cannot for the life of me get it mounted and working correctly! If the spacers behind the servo are too thick, the servo & horn itself gets in the way of the slider, but any less and the ball cup contacts the shock tower brace! Also the horn itself doesn't have enough clearance for the ball cup to actually clear the front case of my servo, and I can't change the horn with another one because any longer or farther out and it will contact either the shock tower brace or slider! I read a post where someone was using the D770 in a 22T and claimed it to fit very well but I am beginning to think it's impossible! Anyone have any suggestions?
first, make sure you are using either the included servo horns from the factory, or the aluminum servo horns from TLR. you MUST use either the stock plastic or the alum horns DESIGNED for the 22 platform.
a pic would be nice too.
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom
that link you their in that link (whoa, getting a little link crazy) is a direct fit for the 22SCT, I have the part number of the ones I used on my 22T at my house somewhere, I just need to find it. I should be home around 9pm, so it may be up a little late. I did have to reset my toe though.
Originally Posted by gus6464
Those can replace the steering link right?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...k-Turnbuckle-2
I found the tag, and it is TRA3645. they are a we bit long from the factory (when you put them on, it looks like to have about 5* of toe in.) but you can crank them a bit to get your correct length with ease.
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:12 AM
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Yeah I decided to pull a KO Propo servo from my blitz that fit better in the 22. It only has 111oz-in of torque though, is that enough for a ST?
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by norco kid
Yeah I decided to pull a KO Propo servo from my blitz that fit better in the 22. It only has 111oz-in of torque though, is that enough for a ST?
id be more comfortable at 150 or more. generally under .10 transit it good for most.
I run Savox servos in all my kits, I run the 1258tg in my 22sct and 22t, and an sc0251 in my rock crawler.
111 should be fine, as long as it is metal gear you should be okay.
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by norco kid
Yeah I decided to pull a KO Propo servo from my blitz that fit better in the 22. It only has 111oz-in of torque though, is that enough for a ST?
Anything over 100g "should" be enough.
We have a tendency to go overkill on torque rating (and speed), probably because you can't really ever have too much - but on 1/10ths (other than perhaps some larger SCTs, or 4wd SCTs) we don't really need as much.
If it got the job done in your blitz, then it should be just fine in your ST.
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:25 AM
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Cool thanks guys.. It is metal gears 111oz .08 sec so I will stick with that for now. The Solar has better specs but it seems like the solution is to Dremel away everything in the way and I'd rather not do that to a brand new truck.
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:33 AM
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I have a solar D771 I just put in my 22T. It was a pain in the ass but I got it fitting perfectly. If I'm not mistaken the D770 and D771 are the same size so I will take a picture when I get home. You cannot use any spacers or even the rubber grommets the servo comes with. You also cannot tighten the servo mount super tight either.
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:37 PM
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Yea this member > http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...35-144019.html

He made it and I think can make more.... Hummmmm nice peace to offer on your site.





He has them available for $30 shipped just PM him and mention my name XXXDAD
This Member> http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...35-144019.html
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:03 AM
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Angry Ball caps

I got a replacement set of ball caps from Losi and the steering caps just won't stay on. I bought a set of Lunsford turn buckles and caps and same results. I use the RPM caps on my SCB and they work like a charm. The camber caps seem to hold. Does RPM make a 4.8mm ball cap? Any suggestions ?
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Old 04-15-2013, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by HollywoodRC
I got a replacement set of ball caps from Losi and the steering caps just won't stay on. I bought a set of Lunsford turn buckles and caps and same results. I use the RPM caps on my SCB and they work like a charm. The camber caps seem to hold. Does RPM make a 4.8mm ball cap? Any suggestions ?
Have you converted the front hexes to the clamping scte hexes?
If not do that first! I did and haven't had one pop off in quite a while! It spaces the front tires out a bit and keeps the wheels off of the ball cups.
That is why they pop off, unless your ramming the pipes at full wood?

Also traxxas captures links for steering halps out as well, search the thread I think somebody posted the part #.
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by thecman26
Have you converted the front hexes to the clamping scte hexes?
If not do that first! I did and haven't had one pop off in quite a while! It spaces the front tires out a bit and keeps the wheels off of the ball cups.
That is why they pop off, unless your ramming the pipes at full wood?

Also traxxas captures links for steering halps out as well, search the thread I think somebody posted the part #.
Yup, I have the aluminum hexes on the front and rear. I was thinking about going to a captured link and just doing away with the ball studs and caps completely. I know some people who have done this and it works. I like the easy removal of the caps better.
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by HollywoodRC
Yup, I have the aluminum hexes on the front and rear. I was thinking about going to a captured link and just doing away with the ball studs and caps completely. I know some people who have done this and it works. I like the easy removal of the caps better.
If you were popping them off a lot before you put the alum hexes on I would replace the cups and see how it works. With the alum hexes I have not had any problems with ball cups but if you had them come off a few times it does not hurt to replace them as they can stretch just a little with the repeated popping off.
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