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Old 03-07-2013, 05:41 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom
I ran my first race on my 22t last sunday. I ran it kit set up, and the front end feels a little twitchy, is there anything I can do that will make it less so?
I ran my 22sct as well, and it has the kit 4mm trail, and I love how it feels comparison wise. i now that apples to oranges in classes, but
Mine was like that right out of the box.
Make VERY sure your diff isn't loose. If it is loose it will be really sketchy!
If it is nice and tight, slow down the servo a bit if you can.

But first I would check the diff!
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:00 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom
I will try going up to 30wt shock oil up front.
would changing castor help as well? I have kit 3* on the truck, but I have 0*, 5* and 10* castor block sets handy.
I also have the buggy pivot (25* kick) set too.
General rule of thumb on caster settings - "as you increase the caster it deadens the steering response, but you will lose some turning ability in slow speed corners."

As was suggested earlier to you, with every change there is a trade-off. So all you can do is try it.

I went up to 10-degrees on my own, and rather like it (on a high traction surface).
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by thecman26
Mine was like that right out of the box.
Make VERY sure your diff isn't loose. If it is loose it will be really sketchy!
If it is nice and tight, slow down the servo a bit if you can.

But first I would check the diff!
uhhh.... Gear diff currently. 3000wt diff fluid.
saving for a viper 13.5 motor... or a 10.5, cannot make up my mind yet.
i have a traxxas brushless system (10 turn, 3500kv sensorless), turned way down. travel is at 60% forward, and then 30% expo to keep it under control. i have a few brushed motors I could wire up, may have to try them.
once i have a a sensored motor in this truck, Ill put in the ball diff. I am considering getting a complete kit to have a spare. running a 22SCT as well,
so the extra parts are good to have on hand.
hopefully by this summer a i will have saved enough for a 22 buggy.
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by AndrewTom
uhhh.... Gear diff currently. 3000wt diff fluid.
saving for a viper 13.5 motor... or a 10.5, cannot make up my mind yet.
i have a traxxas brushless system (10 turn, 3500kv sensorless), turned way down. travel is at 60% forward, and then 30% expo to keep it under control. i have a few brushed motors I could wire up, may have to try them.
once i have a a sensored motor in this truck, Ill put in the ball diff. I am considering getting a complete kit to have a spare. running a 22SCT as well,
so the extra parts are good to have on hand.
hopefully by this summer a i will have saved enough for a 22 buggy.
Around here, a 10.5 is a very slow motor and wouldn't help much on some of our corner to (big) jumps. I am worried that an 8.5 won't be enough! I would say start with at least the 10.5!
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Old 03-08-2013, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gticlay
Around here, a 10.5 is a very slow motor and wouldn't help much on some of our corner to (big) jumps. I am worried that an 8.5 won't be enough! I would say start with at least the 10.5!
at my local track, nobody that i know of running Stadium Truck is anywhere near an 8.5. the fast guy i run with is running 13.5 boosted, others are running 10.5 or the reedy 3300kv. I wish I had bought the buggy, a few guys quit ST so the class is dwindling with the Roadrunners R/C.
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Old 03-10-2013, 12:02 PM
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Hey guys, yesterday was the first time I had really run the 22t. It is the kids and he was popping the ball cups on the wheels the first time he ran it. So we put the .75 aluminum hexes on and that seemed to solve the problem of them popping off on the wheel side. But when I ran it yesterday it kept popping the cups off of the steering rack side. Are the .75 hexes the reason for this or is there something else I need to investigate further?
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:17 PM
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Default tlr 22t jconcept finnisher body - front body posts issue.

Originally Posted by Screamin Steve
+1

Or maybe TLR can drop 4 body mounts in with the tower.
exactly. I now have the JConcepts "Finnisher" body, which is really nice, and it does solve the front body posts contacting ground issue with the geometry of the cab to "grill" alleviates that. sort of too bad as I do really like the stock body look. believe the pro-line bulldog would work too as it has recessed area for the front body posts. [ATTACH]TLR 22T Thread-dsc_7421.jpg[/ATTACH]. Yes, my "basher" tires are on! this is actually my only r/c car and gets a ton of packs through it. Indoor clay/SDRC, outdoor, outdoor track/bash site with my boys, front yard ramps, etc... 100 bucks in aluminum bits and captured ends in the right spots, viper vtx 10.5 system geared 20/78 (very nice btw) and have a tekin 17.5T geared 29/78 (not that fun.. lol) , 5 sets of wheels/tires. other r/c is a hydro boat and we use the same packs... pretty much Sundays here in san diego at our r/c boat pond. the tlr 22t jumps excellent, is pretty tarn tough with the right aluminum pieces, and has traction (use simple green on my panther switches indoor tires), and it a good size... my tlr 22 buggy was just a bit small on a large track and a bit low for the outdoor track sites. anyway, totally diggin it and may get a 7.5 orion motor as well for the tracks. savox ti gear servo rocks the steering.
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:31 PM
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Default go for captured ends

Originally Posted by jkilmurray
Hey guys, yesterday was the first time I had really run the 22t. It is the kids and he was popping the ball cups on the wheels the first time he ran it. So we put the .75 aluminum hexes on and that seemed to solve the problem of them popping off on the wheel side. But when I ran it yesterday it kept popping the cups off of the steering rack side. Are the .75 hexes the reason for this or is there something else I need to investigate further?
yeah... my 22 buggy didn't pop the ball cups often, but the 22T popped off the steering ball cups several times per pack on our indoor track, so i went for a set of Losi captured ends. Had to dremel and fit them a bit and spacer out the front wheels with a washer (going to get the traxxas slash wider hexes soon).

totally solid now, and pretty sure we are not alone on this one! once dialed, the truck is alot of fun.
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:44 PM
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Default 22T blinky gearing @ 29/78

Originally Posted by carbons2k
Does anyone know proper gearing fro 17.5 motors? Does this truck gear simiar to a buggy? Ive got a 72/32 and the motor came off at 150ish after 5 mins. My RB6 buggy is geared at 70/31 and doesnt get nearly as hot
I ran a 29/78T in my 22T. tekin 17.5 ran warm/hot after 8 minutes. no, not nearly similar to the 22 buggy... my 22 buggy(sold it recently) I used 32/70 or even 35/70 !!! monster size pinion! much lighter r/c and smaller wheel diameter, although same gearbox. gotta say, the 17.5 in the 22t is not that much fun. much better in the buggy with very consistent laps. could probably go 29/76 in the 22T in blinky mode/no esc timing with of course end-bell timing advance.
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:48 PM
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Default viper +

Originally Posted by AndrewTom
uhhh.... Gear diff currently. 3000wt diff fluid.
saving for a viper 13.5 motor... or a 10.5, cannot make up my mind yet.
i have a traxxas brushless system (10 turn, 3500kv sensorless), turned way down. travel is at 60% forward, and then 30% expo to keep it under control. i have a few brushed motors I could wire up, may have to try them.
once i have a a sensored motor in this truck, Ill put in the ball diff. I am considering getting a complete kit to have a spare. running a 22SCT as well,
so the extra parts are good to have on hand.
hopefully by this summer a i will have saved enough for a 22 buggy.
roll with the 22t and get the viper 10.5 system. I have both only as my track rc and it is super dialed. Viper did their homework on their system... it is very very nice i must say. aluminum shell esc with program card, presets, smooth motor, easy to use. powerful. get a 8.5-10.5 depending on your track.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:57 AM
  #4361  
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Originally Posted by hsp-sandiego
roll with the 22t and get the viper 10.5 system. I have both only as my track rc and it is super dialed. Viper did their homework on their system... it is very very nice i must say. aluminum shell esc with program card, presets, smooth motor, easy to use. powerful. get a 8.5-10.5 depending on your track.
I run an 8.5 in my 22T on a small indoor track. It's a viable option for mod truck.
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:41 PM
  #4362  
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I just order another losi and it had to be the 22t but I got the rtr just to get familiar to the class. Are there any beginner tips,tricks,setups,mods you would recommend throat the truck? PLease respond with some info on this truck because many pros I heard say that this truck it great after putting in a TON of time into it. I don't expect mine to handle PERFECT i am just looking to get a grasp on how to start off my racing season with the truck. The tracks I will be running on are relatively small with a bit of dry and hard conditions with a bit of loam here and there if this helps. Thanks guys.

Last edited by heygobenny; 03-13-2013 at 08:32 PM.
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Old 03-13-2013, 07:40 PM
  #4363  
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Finally broke one of the 22 series and I happened to be the truck. Front spindle. Had the buggy almost 2 yrs.
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by matt*strike
Finally broke one of the 22 series and I happened to be the truck. Front spindle. Had the buggy almost 2 yrs.
Me too, finally after a lil over a year, I broke a steering rack!
Maybe because of cartwheeling down the straight and maybe because of the traxxas captured steering ends... But I didn't pop off a ballcup!

Great durable truck! Couldn't ask for a better truck!
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Old 03-14-2013, 04:49 PM
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Default 22t body shell

Does anyone know of any other shells that suit the mid motor configuration?
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