TLR 22T Thread

Old 07-24-2012, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RShockley View Post
Try switching to a grooved tire up front to mellow out the stirring. Also he might just be giving to much power in the corners? It is pretty common for new younger drivers to overpower. Might try backing off the slipper a bit or reducing the throttle on the transmitter till he gets used to driving it on a track.
Edge proline tires in front and barcodes on the rear, maybe to much steering, who knows, need to test again hahahah tnxs.
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:41 PM
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Unhappy Ah jeeeez....

Sooooooo.... Just got the rear camber plate installed on my 22T and then started installing my new Lunsford Ball Stud kit, well, before I was able to get the rear inner ball stud all the way down it snapped/broke leaving about 1.5 threads showing... Ya... Like that. So curious if any one has ran into this situation and was able to get the titanium out of the aluminum?
Sorry in advance as I am aware that this is not a static problem w/ the 22T. I just could not find where else to ask this.
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Old 07-24-2012, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by abinder View Post
Thanks for the info and the link. I've imported the link to my iPad, converted it to a PDF file, and will be able use it as a good reference for setups.

Thanks again.


Allen
The setup guide has helped me A TON with all 3 of my race cars.

James
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Old 07-25-2012, 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by RC Jay View Post
Sooooooo.... Just got the rear camber plate installed on my 22T and then started installing my new Lunsford Ball Stud kit, well, before I was able to get the rear inner ball stud all the way down it snapped/broke leaving about 1.5 threads showing... Ya... Like that. So curious if any one has ran into this situation and was able to get the titanium out of the aluminum?
Sorry in advance as I am aware that this is not a static problem w/ the 22T. I just could not find where else to ask this.
I believe that the Lunsford products have a different thread pitch than the TLR stuff, and this is why your ball stud snapped. The Lunsford stuff will work fine when going into the plastic, but do not put the lunsford screws or ball studs into any of the aluminum TLR parts.
This happened to me with a lunsford titanium screw trying to put it into the aluminum rear camber block. Now I just use the stock steel screws with my aluminum parts, or you could buy the TLR titanium items and they will work with their aluminum parts as the thread pitch is the same.
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Ruffy View Post
I believe that the Lunsford products have a different thread pitch than the TLR stuff, and this is why your ball stud snapped. The Lunsford stuff will work fine when going into the plastic, but do not put the lunsford screws or ball studs into any of the aluminum TLR parts.
This happened to me with a lunsford titanium screw trying to put it into the aluminum rear camber block. Now I just use the stock steel screws with my aluminum parts, or you could buy the TLR titanium items and they will work with their aluminum parts as the thread pitch is the same.
Was figuring Lunsford's stuff was messed up when I found out the ball studs they included in the kit for the stearing arm and rack were the standard size ones 😡.
I should have stuck with the TLR titanium parts I guess. I just wish I could salvage my rear aluminum camber plate.
Thanks for the info Ruffy.
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by RC Jay View Post
Was figuring Lunsford's stuff was messed up when I found out the ball studs they included in the kit for the stearing arm and rack were the standard size ones ��.
I should have stuck with the TLR titanium parts I guess. I just wish I could salvage my rear aluminum camber plate.
Thanks for the info Ruffy.
Get out your Dremel - or find the loan of one. Put one of the circular saw discs on it - a thin black one should do nicely, and slice a nice, straight line into the MIDDLE of what's left of the ball stud - use a good, sharp exacto blade or preferrably a flat head screw driver, to unscrew what's left of the ball stud. The key is to make the slice in the middle of the screw to allow you to unscrew it with the flat head screw driver.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by HeavyD99 View Post
Get out your Dremel - or find the loan of one. Put one of the circular saw discs on it - a thin black one should do nicely, and slice a nice, straight line into the MIDDLE of what's left of the ball stud - use a good, sharp exacto blade or preferrably a flat head screw driver, to unscrew what's left of the ball stud. The key is to make the slice in the middle of the screw to allow you to unscrew it with the flat head screw driver.
Thx Heavy I'll try that tonight. Just hope it is not so bound up that I can't get it out.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by RC Jay View Post
Thx Heavy I'll try that tonight. Just hope it is not so bound up that I can't get it out.
Was any thread lock used?
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
Was any thread lock used?
Nope. All was new and clean.
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by RC Jay View Post
Nope. All was new and clean.
Cool. If you get a screw stuck with thread lock heating the part will help get it out.
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:22 PM
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Thanks everyone for the replies about using shorty batteries with the 22T. I rode my motorcycle down to Associated Electronics today and picked up 4 Reedy 4000mah 60c shorty LiPo batteries for $66 each.

I noticed that my X4 charger states in the manual that lipos don't reach their full capacity until they've been charged/discharged 10 or more times. Does that sound about right?

Thanks everyone again for the info and advice.


Allen
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Old 07-28-2012, 10:35 PM
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Default adjusting ride height

how do i adjust my ride height on my 22t
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by retsoorkcuf View Post
how do i adjust my ride height on my 22t
By adding or taking away preload on the shocks.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by retsoorkcuf View Post
how do i adjust my ride height on my 22t
Yeah adjust the collars on the shocks to change the preload on the shocks. Moving the collar up on the shock will lower the truck, move the collars down on the shocks and this will raise the truck.
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Old 07-29-2012, 11:38 AM
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I wish people here would bring there trucks to race still. I finally got my setup dialed in and the truck is so easy to drive now. I guess I will be waiting till the next big races for people to start bringing them out again.
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