TLR 22T Thread
06-06-2012, 08:33 PM
#3421
Originally Posted by Trevor Clement
The aluminum steering rack can bind. The arm that the steering link attaches to will "lock" on the outer rack while trying to return to center. With a little dremel work you can prevent it. I've been running the same aluminum rack for 6 months now without any problems.
Untwisted the link and the steering no longer binds up. It is a little tight when approaching full lock to the right, but as previously mentioned...the rack should break-in over time.
Originally Posted by Manatarms25
Do the xxx SCT enclosed rod ends fit on the 22T turnbuckles ?
http://losiracing.blogspot.com/
06-07-2012, 10:22 AM
#3423
bearings
Best wheel bearings everyone is running or has ran?
06-07-2012, 10:31 AM
#3424
Originally Posted by myl3s91
Im sure it has been asked a million times, but what is the most common, reliable, and "best" motor and esc combo for this buggy?!
Originally Posted by RC Jay
Best wheel bearings everyone is running or has ran?
http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA6954
06-08-2012, 12:13 PM
#3426
Boca
Originally Posted by bnj325
Boca Bearing sells a couple of great kits for the truck.
06-11-2012, 11:38 AM
#3429
hi 
here is my low cost solution.
I cut several shims from Teflon.
I drive a long time so. does perfectly, with no big play. if too much load, then a thicker Teflon
best regards from italy
dani
here is my low cost solution.
I cut several shims from Teflon.
I drive a long time so. does perfectly, with no big play. if too much load, then a thicker Teflon
best regards from italy
dani
06-12-2012, 05:08 AM
#3430
Looking at rebuilding the different for the first time, suggestions on part's?
06-12-2012, 06:34 AM
#3431
Originally Posted by BigRed
Looking at rebuilding the different for the first time, suggestions on part's?
BFastRC.com Part #P54-C.
If you clean and re-grease the differential after every 30-45min of track time, then those parts will last a long time. The damage is usually done when running incorrect differential or slipper tension, or putting off maintenance and running the parts dry. When things start feeling gritty replace the thrust washers and diff rings. I've been using the same diff balls since November on my buggy. I only replace the rings every few months.
The TLR22 and TLR22T is very picky on the differential being correct, even more so than the Triple-X series was. If you are unsure how to build one properly have a look at Matt Castellano's video on the subject.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkJwc_lZbyU
| + YouTube Video | |
Good luck.
06-12-2012, 10:37 AM
#3432
Rear spring problem
Thought I saw some one post a few months back about their rear springs rubbing on the shock body threads. I've got the same problem all of the sudden with certain springs and I can't find out whats going on. Any one else experience this problem? Solution?
~ J
~ J
06-12-2012, 11:24 AM
#3433
Originally Posted by jkirkwood
I assume you mean differential.
BFastRC.com Part #P54-C.
If you clean and re-grease the differential after every 30-45min of track time, then those parts will last a long time. The damage is usually done when running incorrect differential or slipper tension, or putting off maintenance and running the parts dry. When things start feeling gritty replace the thrust washers and diff rings. I've been using the same diff balls since November on my buggy. I only replace the rings every few months.
The TLR22 and TLR22T is very picky on the differential being correct, even more so than the Triple-X series was. If you are unsure how to build one properly have a look at Matt Castellano's video on the subject.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkJwc_lZbyU
Good luck.
BFastRC.com Part #P54-C.
If you clean and re-grease the differential after every 30-45min of track time, then those parts will last a long time. The damage is usually done when running incorrect differential or slipper tension, or putting off maintenance and running the parts dry. When things start feeling gritty replace the thrust washers and diff rings. I've been using the same diff balls since November on my buggy. I only replace the rings every few months.
The TLR22 and TLR22T is very picky on the differential being correct, even more so than the Triple-X series was. If you are unsure how to build one properly have a look at Matt Castellano's video on the subject.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkJwc_lZbyU
| + YouTube Video | |
Good luck.
06-12-2012, 01:52 PM
#3434
i think i just learned something
Originally Posted by jkirkwood
I assume you mean differential.
BFastRC.com Part #P54-C.
If you clean and re-grease the differential after every 30-45min of track time, then those parts will last a long time. The damage is usually done when running incorrect differential or slipper tension, or putting off maintenance and running the parts dry. When things start feeling gritty replace the thrust washers and diff rings. I've been using the same diff balls since November on my buggy. I only replace the rings every few months.
The TLR22 and TLR22T is very picky on the differential being correct, even more so than the Triple-X series was. If you are unsure how to build one properly have a look at Matt Castellano's video on the subject.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkJwc_lZbyU
Good luck.
BFastRC.com Part #P54-C.
If you clean and re-grease the differential after every 30-45min of track time, then those parts will last a long time. The damage is usually done when running incorrect differential or slipper tension, or putting off maintenance and running the parts dry. When things start feeling gritty replace the thrust washers and diff rings. I've been using the same diff balls since November on my buggy. I only replace the rings every few months.
The TLR22 and TLR22T is very picky on the differential being correct, even more so than the Triple-X series was. If you are unsure how to build one properly have a look at Matt Castellano's video on the subject.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkJwc_lZbyU
| + YouTube Video | |
Good luck.
06-12-2012, 04:59 PM
#3435
Everytime I try to install new caster blocks my front suspension starts binding really bad.
What do I do?
Do I have to wait until the new blocks break-in? Do I ream out the holes that the pins go through?
Im trying to go from 5 deg blocks to zero. Are the zero degree blocks are more prone to binding?
What do I do?
Do I have to wait until the new blocks break-in? Do I ream out the holes that the pins go through?
Im trying to go from 5 deg blocks to zero. Are the zero degree blocks are more prone to binding?
