BigRed

iTrader: (22)

New to the 22t, bought it used of an rctech member. I'm having issues with the steering rack binding. It came with the aluminum rack. I thought it was a servo issue. I've had the front end apart a few times, even a little lube to help smooth it out, still binding. Just looking for a little guidance. Thanks.

Armaan

iTrader: (49)

Nice paint!! Sometimes simple is best.

rifraf

iTrader: (41)

What are you guy's doing about the front rims rubbing on the steering ballcups?
no matter how much I back off the wheel nuts the rims still rub,I have tried shims between the plastic hex and rim this will not work because there is not enough trheads to hold the nut on the axle.this is the only flaw I see with this truck,and we all know there is NO wheel that has 0 wobble to it...lets here some answers ??

Silver04RS

iTrader: (1)

Honestly, I have the stock hexes and the cups are close to the wheel but there is a slight gap. I have poped off a few but as long as I stay off the pipe is good. If you have poped them off a few times try some new ball cups on the steering linkage and youll be surprised on how much better they stay on

Also I run my nuts super tight and dont have any bind issues.


Get rid of the AL rack... they bind

rifraf

iTrader: (41)

Thanks,I have noticed my stock UNUSED wheels have more wobble than the usual,I will race this truck for the 1st time tomorrow nite.it has the stock kit set up,I did raise the trans up 1mm and went to 4 rear toe because I have read a few post that people claim the rear needs to be locked in alittle more..

Silver04RS

iTrader: (1)

what surface are you running on? If its really loose maybe a 3.5 but I feel 4 would almost be too much anywhere. I suggest running lighter oil and springs out back, thats what really got the truck working for me.

Eli

iTrader: (15)

Travis knows what he is talking about. Nice signature btw

TQ2

i think one of the team guys here has noted that the alloy rack binds, but I bought one and worked on the plastic guide it slides in for a while with some fine grit sandpaper before remounting in the truck to smooth out the edges and got rid of the binding and notchiness others have noticed. took a little time, but was worth the effort.

TQ2

it's been mentioned and discussed a few times in this thread already, and just one page back one of the team drivers (Casper, post #3328) suggests a cure by using alloy hexes.

lbckevin

iTrader: (107)

Hey Travis...

What gearing are you running in stock truck ? I am heating the motor up quite a bit in a 5 min. race at OCRC and WCRC.

motobigalow

iTrader: (60)

Has anyone ran the proline scrubs yet? Opinions? Most common tires at my track are suburb style as soft as possible. Was going to get a set and try but figured maybe someone would have some input

RC Jay

iTrader: (5)

The TLR .75 alloy hexes worked for me. Still ROAR legal as well.

RC Jay

iTrader: (5)

About that 1mm trans lift that seems to becoming the norm... Anybody have some solid results on that? Notice a difference? How much of what?

rifraf

iTrader: (41)

I hope pro-line is in the process of making a bulldog body for the Losi 22t,we don't have much choices in a desent body.the stock body is waaaaay to thin/brittle...just my .02..

slow_jun

iTrader: (14)

Its the plastic slide where the allu rack slides in,it needs replacement every now and then, its a small investment to keep the steering bind/slop free operation. A regular cleaning is also needed to free it from binding.