TLR 22T Thread

Old 03-31-2012, 09:57 PM
  #3001  
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (34)
 
Casper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Orange, Ca
Posts: 17,869
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by MorrowDeath View Post
Ive been trying but ESC wont enter setup mode by pressing the SET button.

But programming mode is working. Been looking over the instructions over and over trying to find something but no luck yet.
Take it to your LHS or local track and find someone that knows how to setup an LRP.
Casper is offline  
Old 04-01-2012, 06:09 PM
  #3002  
ctd
Tech Regular
iTrader: (56)
 
ctd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: MIchigan
Posts: 308
Trader Rating: 56 (100%+)
Default

So i was extremely lucky yestaurday and won a 22t from The TLR shootout at my LHS and was wondering a few things before i go buy somethings for it. I run a Team Orion 6500 in my SCT, is this a good battery for this or a little over kill. I geuss just anything, like what to stock up on or just start with the normal things that brake most. A-arms, hubs and so on. I see Casper is on here also so i can bug him for set up help on 2 threads

Thanks in advance for any and all input.
ctd is offline  
Old 04-01-2012, 06:24 PM
  #3003  
Tech Master
iTrader: (75)
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Orange county CA
Posts: 1,979
Trader Rating: 75 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by ctd View Post
So i was extremely lucky yestaurday and won a 22t from The TLR shootout at my LHS and was wondering a few things before i go buy somethings for it. I run a Team Orion 6500 in my SCT, is this a good battery for this or a little over kill. I geuss just anything, like what to stock up on or just start with the normal things that brake most. A-arms, hubs and so on. I see Casper is on here also so i can bug him for set up help on 2 threads

Thanks in advance for any and all input.
This truck is extremely well built. I haven't seen anyone break an A-arm yet since the design was finalized. But if your racing at a track that runs low on stock. I would say steering rack/rear hubs.
Chase1472 is offline  
Old 04-01-2012, 06:34 PM
  #3004  
Tech Master
iTrader: (85)
 
oilguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Muskegon, MI
Posts: 1,683
Trader Rating: 85 (99%+)
Default

I prefer the large mah batteries for their weight....i run 5800 70c in mine w/7.5 orion
oilguy is offline  
Old 04-01-2012, 07:13 PM
  #3005  
Tech Master
iTrader: (52)
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,385
Trader Rating: 52 (100%+)
Default

How too calibrate your lrp to your radio

• Connect the speed-control to the battery and switch the unit on.
• Hold the SET button pressed for at least 3sec.
 You entered setup mode and the SET LED flashes blue (it will flash until the setup is completed).
• Leave transmitter in neutral position and press the SET button once.
 Neutral setting is stored , MODE LED flashes yellow and the motor beeps.
• Hold full throttle on transmitter and press the SET button once.
 Full-throttle setting is stored, MODE LED flashes red.
• Hold full brake on transmitter and press the SET button once.
 Brake setting is stored, LED‘s glow red (MODE) and blue (SET).

make sure you set your epa's to 100% on your radio
tonyd is offline  
Old 04-01-2012, 07:45 PM
  #3006  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
 
steelers82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: upland, ca.
Posts: 218
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

hey everyone wondering if i can get a little advice.Im running stock 17.5,with the timing on the motor turned up a little passed center,and nothing in the speedo,Im geared at 76 28 for a indoor clay track....westcoast raceway,and im coming off the track close to 185 degrees for a 5 min main....wondering why its getting so hot? Also I use those protek 70 c 6400 mah batteries,and I notice that after about 5 laps I dont have the same punch as from the start,could it be these batteries,or that the motor is getting so hot that is loosing a little power?
steelers82 is offline  
Old 04-01-2012, 07:47 PM
  #3007  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
 
JoeGolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Oakland NJ
Posts: 200
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by BigJohnRacing View Post
Anyone built a 22T in a mid mount and try to fit a reg. size 7.4 Lipo? I now feel like a _ and have to leave return the Tlr weights so if some needs the brass weights hit me up!
Yes its possible with a low profile servo. I used a Futaba S9551, had to mount the Rx on top of the servo and basically place the battery foam on the back of the servo to hold the battery in, 5000mah Orion stick pack. It worked, accelerated well and turned great, but couldn't accelerate and turn to keep up with the rear motor set-ups. So it only lasted one race night.
JoeGolf is offline  
Old 04-01-2012, 08:04 PM
  #3008  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (105)
 
thecman26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: South Central Kansas
Posts: 7,982
Trader Rating: 105 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by steelers82 View Post
hey everyone wondering if i can get a little advice.Im running stock 17.5,with the timing on the motor turned up a little passed center,and nothing in the speedo,Im geared at 76 28 for a indoor clay track....westcoast raceway,and im coming off the track close to 185 degrees for a 5 min main....wondering why its getting so hot? Also I use those protek 70 c 6400 mah batteries,and I notice that after about 5 laps I dont have the same punch as from the start,could it be these batteries,or that the motor is getting so hot that is loosing a little power?
It could be getting hot, I have noticed that my motors loose punch when they get too hot, with that battery it should have pop for the entire 5 minutes. You could try gearing it down a tooth and see if that helps.
thecman26 is offline  
Old 04-01-2012, 08:09 PM
  #3009  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
 
steelers82's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: upland, ca.
Posts: 218
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by thecman26 View Post
It could be getting hot, I have noticed that my motors loose punch when they get too hot, with that battery it should have pop for the entire 5 minutes. You could try gearing it down a tooth and see if that helps.
okay maybe Ill try that, Im also going to try turning the timing down on the motor too,because I cant see those batteries being junk their brand new,and wernt cheap either,thanks a lot
steelers82 is offline  
Old 04-01-2012, 11:05 PM
  #3010  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (105)
 
thecman26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: South Central Kansas
Posts: 7,982
Trader Rating: 105 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by steelers82 View Post
okay maybe Ill try that, Im also going to try turning the timing down on the motor too,because I cant see those batteries being junk their brand new,and wernt cheap either,thanks a lot
What motor does it happen to be? I know certain motors don't tolerate timing as much as others... But first try that and see what happens.
thecman26 is offline  
Old 04-01-2012, 11:12 PM
  #3011  
Tech Addict
 
KDagh1's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 520
Default

Considering getting back into racing and like the 22. What would you think of buying the RTR version and racing that? It kind of feels like cheating to me, and in my 23 year involvement in the hobby, I've never purchased an RTR, unless a kit form was not available (i.e. TMAXX, Mini X).

How is the build quality?

I'm just super short on time (and patience ).
KDagh1 is offline  
Old 04-01-2012, 11:19 PM
  #3012  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (105)
 
thecman26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: South Central Kansas
Posts: 7,982
Trader Rating: 105 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by KDagh1 View Post
Considering getting back into racing and like the 22. What would you think of buying the RTR version and racing that? It kind of feels like cheating to me, and in my 23 year involvement in the hobby, I've never purchased an RTR, unless a kit form was not available (i.e. TMAXX, Mini X).

How is the build quality?

I'm just super short on time (and patience ).
The 22T kit is sooo easy to assemble, don't short yourself. It goes together like a dream! You don't have anything to worry about!
thecman26 is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 07:22 AM
  #3013  
Super Moderator
iTrader: (80)
 
Kraig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sun Prairie, WI
Posts: 6,776
Trader Rating: 80 (100%+)
Default

The kit has higher quality of components in it than a rtr does. Keep in mind, with an rtr they have to keep the price similar to other rtr products on the market therefore there are some differences between the two products. However, I have seen quite a few rtr's out racing on the track and they appear to be holding up just fine.
Kraig is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 07:39 AM
  #3014  
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (6)
 
BigJohnRacing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 77
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default 22T Kit

The TLR 22T is very easy to build, the only rtr version of vehicle I bought was a Revo 3.3 and after the first run felt the need to rebuild with every hop-up under the sun. So RTR to me is not the best investment, the electronics and factory set-up I my mind leave a lot for a racer to build on in the RTR. I suggest keeping your eye peeled for some deals that come on the board and you might get a trick truck for around the price of a RTR but with the gear you want. Either way your set! Have fun tearing it up!
BigJohnRacing is offline  
Old 04-02-2012, 09:07 AM
  #3015  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (13)
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,553
Trader Rating: 13 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by KDagh1 View Post
Considering getting back into racing and like the 22. What would you think of buying the RTR version and racing that? It kind of feels like cheating to me, and in my 23 year involvement in the hobby, I've never purchased an RTR, unless a kit form was not available (i.e. TMAXX, Mini X).

How is the build quality?

I'm just super short on time (and patience ).
The build quality of the RTR 22T is very good. The electronics are pretty good as well. The main difference between the kit and the rtr is the chassis, shock shafts, hinge pins, and shock tops. The chassis is the biggest difference but most wouldnt feel this change. The shock tops are the plastic ones but those are what everyone is putting on their kits anyways so this is actually a plus. The hinge pins and shock shafts are great, they just arent tini coated.
hacker07 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.