TLR 22T Thread

Old 03-04-2012, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by yodace View Post
Ne1 else having problems with the steering turnbuckles popping off? Anything I can change ?
+1 on this. I too would like to know.
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mdutcher View Post
+1 on this. I too would like to know.
Couple of things, don't over tighten the wheels nuts, you can clearence the ball cups at the wheel side, run the buggy rear std. aluminum hexes. That should help. I've done two of the three and haven't had an issue since. Haven't bought the hexes, yet.
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Old 03-04-2012, 08:56 PM
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Does anyone have any pictures of their set-ups running a standard lipo with the mid-motor configuration? Finishing up my build and I want to try the mid-motor for a high bite indoor clay surface. I know I might need a low profile servo. Still looks like an extremely tight fit though. Thanks, Joe
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:22 PM
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I rebiult and tightened up the diff and added an ounce of weight to the rear and it cured the loose rear end problem.

I REALLY like this truck now!
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Slash and Burn View Post
I rebiult and tightened up the diff and added an ounce of weight to the rear and it cured the loose rear end problem.

I REALLY like this truck now!
Me too! I am turning some SICK lap times with it! It is a fantastic truck when you get the diff set-up right! Can be a handfull if you dont! Got second place yesterday on my 3rd night racing it (second in rear motor configuration)! Last weekend I got the win! This weekend I god slammed in the 1st corner carnage... But I almost cought 1st place by the end... If we would have ran 10 minutes instead of 8 I would have had him! Oh well... There is always next weekend!
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:10 AM
  #2631  
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Default 22T Gearing

Any suggestions on gearing for a 10.5 lrp x-12 running on a med sized indoor clay track roughly 90x60. I'm currently geared at 22/82 and according to the manual this is the recomended starting point, no timing advance either on the motor and no boost on the speedo.
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:44 AM
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Finally got to run my truck this weekend, and it was ok, but just didn't feel right to me. I TQ'd, but ended up in third. That's what I get for making changes before the main.

I couldn't be as aggressive as I wanted to, for fear of snap oversteer. I'll post a setup after making some more changes for my home track tomorrow night. I need to play with shock positioning, and limiters in the rear.
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Old 03-05-2012, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeGolf View Post
Does anyone have any pictures of their set-ups running a standard lipo with the mid-motor configuration? Finishing up my build and I want to try the mid-motor for a high bite indoor clay surface. I know I might need a low profile servo. Still looks like an extremely tight fit though. Thanks, Joe
Hers some pics of my mid motor setup. I have a futaba 9550 srvo in it. Youll need to run a shorty servo with a full size battery. I tryed a shorty battery. Didnt like it. I like the weight of a full size battery. Im on a high bite clay track. I first ran it with rear motor. All it did was wheelie. Had a hard time turning it. Running mid motor now, no more wheelies. And still has good traction.

Last edited by Jenzorace; 03-26-2013 at 03:02 PM.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:07 AM
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Unhappy Help

Originally Posted by Mitten View Post
Couple of things, don't over tighten the wheels nuts, you can clearence the ball cups at the wheel side, run the buggy rear std. aluminum hexes. That should help. I've done two of the three and haven't had an issue since. Haven't bought the hexes, yet.
don't understand, please explain more. I am having a horrible time with ball cups popping on the front end with any hard landing, popped ball cups 2 times in each qualifier this weekend. I have the front wheels loose, not overtightened, they almost wobble i have them so loose. How can i cure the front cups popping off so easily? help
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:39 AM
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I even tried changing the steering ball cups to the Kyosho ones helped alittle.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by awidz View Post
don't understand, please explain more. I am having a horrible time with ball cups popping on the front end with any hard landing, popped ball cups 2 times in each qualifier this weekend. I have the front wheels loose, not overtightened, they almost wobble i have them so loose. How can i cure the front cups popping off so easily? help
Add a washer between the hex and the wheel.
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Old 03-05-2012, 07:48 AM
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What size of washer ?
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by yodace View Post
What size of washer ?
I used a .04 washer. I has to fit the axle and not bigger than the hex.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RB5SP View Post
I'm running a lrp 10.5 motor in the 22T and it seems to get hot rather quicly but when I had this installed in the buggy never got hot on me. I'm gearing the truck at 21/82 the manual says for 10.5 22/82 so I'm left a little confused on why this is happening, and anyone running a 10.5 please chime in and lmk what you are geared at I would greatly appreciate it. Neither one of my lrp motors ever got hot on me and I hear alot of people say they tend to run hot.
I am running a LRP 10.5 with 22/82 and the motor gets warms but never hot. I am running no boost, on a fairly large track. Endbell timing at stock (-10 deg).

You may want to check your driveline for any friction/binding. Pinion gear mesh is critical, if it's noisy then it is too tight. I have found that tightening the slipper cover too tight will put the transmission in a bind. I have also found that the transmission housing bolts do not have to be really tight to work smoothly, just be sure to use locktite on any metal to metal threads. While you are at it you may want to change the bearings, Losi bearing blow.
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Old 03-05-2012, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by awidz View Post
don't understand, please explain more. I am having a horrible time with ball cups popping on the front end with any hard landing, popped ball cups 2 times in each qualifier this weekend. I have the front wheels loose, not overtightened, they almost wobble i have them so loose. How can i cure the front cups popping off so easily? help
Most people have found the problem to be the clearence between the rim and the ball cup. The aluminum buggy hexes are just a little but wider than what come on the truck. Shaving the end of the ball cup to help clearence the rim. You just need a little to help prevent it. It's not a 100% fix just yet, but I'm sure someone will figure it out soon.
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