Jenzorace

iTrader: (17)

Anyone else ran mid motor?

Briguy

iTrader: (125)

Jenzo , there is a mid motor thread floating around somewhere that has a lot of good info . LCJ`s must have some insane traction


Edit *
Found it !
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...2t-thread.html

thecman26

iTrader: (105)

They fit my fronts just fine! Unless they goofed and sent you 2 sets of rear pinks...

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

I just thought I would throw out one thing...if you are running my setup in stock, I tested some this weeeknd and I would go to 27.5wt oil in the rear and add 2 turns of droop to the rear.

Jenzorace

iTrader: (17)

Thats what i got. 2 sets of pinks..

Jenzorace

iTrader: (17)

Thanks bri!

RB5SP

iTrader: (52)

I have the brass weight system for rear motor on the 22 buggy, I was thinking of using the other 7g weight on the 22T, I'm currently running the kit setup only thing I changed was 2mm washer on the inner front link positon and I'm running 1B instead of 2B in the rear. I race on a smooth med bite track about 90x50 and the truck feels good I was just curious if anyone running on a similar track has tried adding weight to the rear of the truck and what was the result?. I'm gonna be running the 30deg aluminum front pivot and aluminum front camber mount and wondering if I should add the 7grams to the back?.

WideOpenThrottle RC

iTrader: (86)

Could someone post a pic of how they trimmed the bottom of the rear motor body? I'm a newb 22T owner and cant figure out where I need to cut this thing, looks like theres a option to either cut it level and use body clips or somehow velcro to the chassis?

kstoracing1

I didnt cut it at all. I just open it up and put it on the chassis. It's there to keep some of the dirt out.

I thought about what you were saying but, figured if I cut it there is no way to fold the cut area and have it line up and still seal properly than just taking the extra 2sec to open and drop it on the posts.

ChrisWolfson

iTrader: (3)

No need to cut it. The flaps just fold under and sit there. Install the body pins as usual and leave the flaps alone.

thecman26

iTrader: (105)

Yes, I added weight to mine and it was incredible, but I added 1 ounce overall to the rear, 1/2 oz under the shock tower on that nice flat spot and 1/4oz on each side of the chassis as far back as I could fit them. Made it nice and stable and brought the rear traction to lockdown state like my old RT5 was. Maybe even better that it (RT5) was...

Mitten

iTrader: (25)

Or you can cut the flaps off and velcro the body to a set of Mitten side pods.
A little more secure than just the flaps.



See for sale thread in sig. \/

WideOpenThrottle RC

iTrader: (86)

Interesting , I didn't like the flaps so I cut them off. I run on a indoor track so there isnt much dust but I'll keep these in mind in the future...

thecman26

iTrader: (105)

I ended up cutting mine off too! When I bent them flat to paint the body they ended up cracking when I bent them back. So I chopped 'em off. Our track is pretty dust free so no worries. Comes off really clean after a heat.

RB5SP

iTrader: (52)

Sounds good, I'm gonna put the 7grams on the back to start and see how that feels thanks for the feedback.