TLR 22T Thread
#2026
Tech Addict
iTrader: (13)

Are you guys using the 3" off the ground method for setting the slipper ? When I try it, the front end will lift briefly, then I hear the diff slip and the front end comes down, I have checked and rechecked the diff and if I try to spin it while holding the outdrives it won't budge, should I just tighten the diff ??
I don't think that method really works with the 22 for some reason. I just set mine on the track.
#2027

I agree how is holding you tires and stabing you throttle the same as setting it to the track surface? I see guys doing this all the time and are the first ones to be either replacing there diff because it was to loose or complaining there spinning out every corner when the track dries over the day. The funniest thing I seen is a guy showing another guy a quick way to adjust the slipper (holding the wheels till the wheels come up 3in) and watching the new esc puff in to smoke. The slipper is a tuning tool for track sufaces so adjust it on the track.
#2028

before you set the slipper, your diff must be at the correct tension...also, i set my slipper so my ft tires lift an inch or so...because the vehicle is longer, there is more leverage...
so they dont have to lift as high
so they dont have to lift as high
#2029

I agree how is holding you tires and stabing you throttle the same as setting it to the track surface? I see guys doing this all the time and are the first ones to be either replacing there diff because it was to loose or complaining there spinning out every corner when the track dries over the day. The funniest thing I seen is a guy showing another guy a quick way to adjust the slipper (holding the wheels till the wheels come up 3in) and watching the new esc puff in to smoke. The slipper is a tuning tool for track sufaces so adjust it on the track.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html
#2030

I agree with everyone else. Make sure your diff is set properly, and adjust on track.
My method:
- Tighten the diff until I can't spin it by hand (when you hold the outdrives in place).
-Tighten the slipper until it just about lifts the front wheels off the ground (before breaking in the diff).
-Do a traditional break in for a few min, then a few easy (never full throttle) laps around the track.
-Retighten the diff to my liking, and adjust the slipper for the track.
That whole 3" thing never worked for me, as my local track can go from high bite to low bite in the course of a week.
My method:
- Tighten the diff until I can't spin it by hand (when you hold the outdrives in place).
-Tighten the slipper until it just about lifts the front wheels off the ground (before breaking in the diff).
-Do a traditional break in for a few min, then a few easy (never full throttle) laps around the track.
-Retighten the diff to my liking, and adjust the slipper for the track.
That whole 3" thing never worked for me, as my local track can go from high bite to low bite in the course of a week.
#2032

I agree with everyone else. Make sure your diff is set properly, and adjust on track.
My method:
- Tighten the diff until I can't spin it by hand (when you hold the outdrives in place).
-Tighten the slipper until it just about lifts the front wheels off the ground (before breaking in the diff).
-Do a traditional break in for a few min, then a few easy (never full throttle) laps around the track.
-Retighten the diff to my liking, and adjust the slipper for the track.
That whole 3" thing never worked for me, as my local track can go from high bite to low bite in the course of a week.
My method:
- Tighten the diff until I can't spin it by hand (when you hold the outdrives in place).
-Tighten the slipper until it just about lifts the front wheels off the ground (before breaking in the diff).
-Do a traditional break in for a few min, then a few easy (never full throttle) laps around the track.
-Retighten the diff to my liking, and adjust the slipper for the track.
That whole 3" thing never worked for me, as my local track can go from high bite to low bite in the course of a week.
#2033

So I guess someone should mention that to the guy that created the sticky thread....
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...er-clutch.html
#2034

Here is how I was showed to do it a long time ago. build diff and set it to the manual now once the diff is in the truck hold the right wheel with your right hand and also hold the spur with your right thumb. Know with your left hand rotate the left wheel and losen the diff till there is is some resistance with a lite gritty feel. Now drive the truck slow doing fiure 8's for a few minutes. Now i recheck the diff with the same methed as above now the diff should rotate with resistance but no gritness loosen the diff till that is acheived. Now i adjust the slipper by holding the wheels and roll the spur with my thumb till it take some effert to get it to rotate. Now i put it on the track and adjust it til it slips for 6 to 12in. Never have I heard a my diff's bark or had any diff issue's.
#2035
Tech Initiate

Hello all, I'm new here, but thought I would pop in and share my 22T with everyone.
Unfortunately I was too excited and didn't get a good shot of the finished chassis and body before getting it dirty, but here's one of the clean body:
... I figured out attachments... apparently I still can't have the actual images in the post, but at least they can be seen...
One is the clean body, next is the dirty truck after the first track run, and last is an action shot that my wife took.
I'm running the following:
Orion Vortex R10Pro ESC
Orion Vortex Pro-Stock 17.5T brushless motor
Spektrum DX3S Radio
Spektrum SR300 receiver
XP DS1313 servo
Venom 2S, 5000mah, 60C Lipo pack
Unfortunately I was too excited and didn't get a good shot of the finished chassis and body before getting it dirty, but here's one of the clean body:
... I figured out attachments... apparently I still can't have the actual images in the post, but at least they can be seen...
One is the clean body, next is the dirty truck after the first track run, and last is an action shot that my wife took.
I'm running the following:
Orion Vortex R10Pro ESC
Orion Vortex Pro-Stock 17.5T brushless motor
Spektrum DX3S Radio
Spektrum SR300 receiver
XP DS1313 servo
Venom 2S, 5000mah, 60C Lipo pack
Last edited by chadmart; 01-30-2012 at 10:45 AM.
#2037

exactly, I set it for just a little lift, I am running a 7.5 so I didn't wanna have it to tight anyway right now it's perfect more than enough for the big jumps, doesn't wheelie off the line just shoots straight. I haven't seen blown esc's but I've seen guys overheat their motors trying to get the car to be exactly at 3 inches
#2038

This is (will be once I start building) my first ever ball diff build. It's very helpful to get those with experience chimming in! Hopefully I get it right!
#2039

I love the look of this truck, pretty impressive for a dead class
[QUOTE=acaciapiks;10248989]mine

[QUOTE=acaciapiks;10248989]mine
