TLR 22T Thread

Old 01-23-2012, 08:44 AM
  #1846  
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Just finished building my truck canít wait to race it. At the weekend I watched a race meeting on wet astro and some trucks were having issues with their electrics getting wet. Does anyone know if the 22 body shell will fit the longer 22t chassis.
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:06 AM
  #1847  
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Originally Posted by neil78 View Post
Just finished building my truck canít wait to race it. At the weekend I watched a race meeting on wet astro and some trucks were having issues with their electrics getting wet. Does anyone know if the 22 body shell will fit the longer 22t chassis.
screwing around the other day i put mine on. yes it fits. (:
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:12 AM
  #1848  
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Originally Posted by celt View Post
tufferwilde doesn't need any help with his "T"
My T is just fine thank you very much...

Originally Posted by avtar4987 View Post
I have a issue that I was wondering if anyone else is having? I am having issues with the front wheels rubbing on the steering ball cups. I assembled the front axles as per the manual. I have assembled and re assembled the assembly a few times and made sure everything was right. I have taken a caliper to every part for tolerance but the parts are the same on the left to right of the truck. The only way for me to get it not to rub is running .5 shims on both sides. this changes the track a little and the truck is tough fitting into a inspection box. Any help from the team or anyone else would be highly appreciated.

I noticed this as well on mine. The ball cup rubs on the outer circumference of the wheel (no on the inside of the hoop) while running. Wheel is straight when spun.


Originally Posted by Casper View Post
A picture of the interference would help.

I will take a photo at lunch and post it. I noticed it after the first run. No noise, doesn't seem to adversely impact handling, just a rub mark from the ballcup.

Chris Wilde
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Old 01-23-2012, 09:39 AM
  #1849  
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Originally Posted by tufferwilde View Post

I noticed this as well on mine. The ball cup rubs on the outer circumference of the wheel (no on the inside of the hoop) while running. Wheel is straight when spun.

I will take a photo at lunch and post it. I noticed it after the first run. No noise, doesn't seem to adversely impact handling, just a rub mark from the ballcup.

Chris Wilde
To those with the front wheel rubbing, the front hexes are a softer material and thus you want to snug down the front wheel nuts, preferably get serrated ones, but DO NOT overtighten them. This will cause them to rub and thus your truck wont handle as well.
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:36 PM
  #1850  
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
To those with the front wheel rubbing, the front hexes are a softer material and thus you want to snug down the front wheel nuts, preferably get serrated ones, but DO NOT overtighten them. This will cause them to rub and thus your truck wont handle as well.
I will have to check out if they are being overtightened... but I don't think that they are. Are the front hexes the same as the 22?

Here's a photo of the "rub"
Attached Thumbnails TLR 22T Thread-front-wheel-rub-issue.jpg  
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:37 PM
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Ryan, Casper or Frank,
Any plans on alum front and rear wheel hex parts like the buggy has?
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Old 01-23-2012, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tufferwilde View Post
I will have to check out if they are being overtightened... but I don't think that they are. Are the front hexes the same as the 22?

Here's a photo of the "rub"
Yeah that is a sign of over tightening the front tires. No need to crank on them. Snug should be plenty tight for the front wheels.

Originally Posted by AC Driver View Post
Ryan, Casper or Frank,
Any plans on alum front and rear wheel hex parts like the buggy has?
I hope so. I would imagine something like that will be in the works soon.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:05 PM
  #1853  
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Hulk like tight wheel nuts....

Well, thank you for confirming that I was using a hammer when a scalpel was required. Now the question will be whether or not I have permanently deformed the front wheels in my excitement!

Wilde
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by tufferwilde View Post
Hulk like tight wheel nuts....

Well, thank you for confirming that I was using a hammer when a scalpel was required. Now the question will be whether or not I have permanently deformed the front wheels in my excitement!

Wilde
Most likely not.

You should be able to crank down on the rears. I do highly suggest serrated nuts for the truck though. (good saftely measure.)
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:50 PM
  #1855  
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Default AL, Hex hubs

It seems that the std buggy AL rear hex should be the front on the truck. I didnt get standard on the buggy, I got .75s and 1.5s so I can't be sure but, it seem like they should be the same as the plastic front hexes for the truck.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by kstoracing1 View Post
It seems that the std buggy AL rear hex should be the front on the truck. I didnt get standard on the buggy, I got .75s and 1.5s so I can't be sure but, it seem like they should be the same as the plastic front hexes for the truck.
There is no aluminum hex at this point that is the same as the front or rear of the 22T hex sizes. The standard rear are wider that the 22T front hexes.
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Old 01-23-2012, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Toiffel View Post
Need some help guys, I finished building my 22T and can't wait to hit the track, but was so excited about the build I forgot to make a template of the chassis, I have some real nice dirt bike grade clear vinyl for protection that I can't use now, I would more than willing to send one to the person that can supply me with the template (not only outline-need holes for the screws too) please pm for info...
Thanks in advance....
Dude,

Go to the store and get you some tracing paper big enough to cove rthe bottom og the chassis. Next get you kids, brother's, sister's crayon.

Flip the truck over and drap the tracing paper over the chassis. Take said crayon and use the side to get an impression of the chassis. Use the point to get the screw holes.

Send me a cut of your vinyl....lol.


Tracing paper is not essential but you get the idea. any thin paper will do.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:00 PM
  #1858  
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Is it possible the TLR1066 spacer that goes between the caster block and the a-arm, actually goes behind the caster block instead of in front of it? I know the manual shows that spacer in front of the caster block, but my turnbuckles were touching the shock spring with it there. Moving that spacer behind the caster block made the turnbuckle clear the shock spring and possibly may help with the wheel rub?
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
There is no aluminum hex at this point that is the same as the front or rear of the 22T hex sizes. The standard rear are wider that the 22T front hexes.
Oh, ok....Well, they should have made them the same....lol. Cut on our cost.

Because I will be ordering me a set...lol. When available.
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Old 01-23-2012, 02:08 PM
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0 degree caster blocks should improve turn in?
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