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Old 05-14-2018, 07:52 AM
  #14371  
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Also my run time is currently very long and the motor barely gets hot even at " full speed " for a long time. Maybe it's slacking a little bit with the current gearing ? :-D

Would be an option to change gearing with still 2S to get a little more speed and less run time but watching temperature carefully ?

Looks like my current gearing is 18/87

ddd228 are you suing 18/90 with a 2s or 3s ? what's your current max speed ?

Thank you guys !
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Old 05-14-2018, 12:03 PM
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Running a 3 S pack(5,000 ma) will require a modified hold down or make one.
I run low gearing because of heat build up.I have run very tall Badlands tires as well.( on 2 S.)
The tall tires causes a "gear up" situation.
In the summer,the esc will shut down,thermally!
I run a Castle 4600 KV and it gets HOT.
My out door track has a 60' straightaway and it's plenty fast.

I never ran a 3 S pack because the tranny would explode with that much power. I stripped out gears on 2 S.
Steel top shaft and STEEL idler gears are required.

Are you trying to do speed runs on the street? Get some foam tires and gear up.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/JACO-Eliminator-REAR-FOAM-TIRES-for-rc10gt-xxx-nt-NEW-JAC2016/232768747308?epid=1601480336&hash=item363219372c:g :wckAAOSwwB1aoGPm

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Old 05-14-2018, 08:26 PM
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Default Help with RC10T4.3 stock gearing and speed

Originally Posted by superticky View Post
Hello everyone,

I recently bought an RC10T4.3 stadium truck and I am extremely happy with it, it runs super smooth and stable.

I was expecting a little bit more speed (just a bit more) but since itís a RTR combo it came optimized with gearing for a 2S Lipo. I love the long run times but really would like a little more speed. All specifications and manuals say the ESC and motor can handle a 3S with the right gearing.

The overall question is: Whatís the easiest and safest way to get a little more speed? I know this is not a Rustler and Iím not expecting crazy crash-and-destroy speeds but it currently runs around max 25mph and I was expecting/hoping something around the 35mph. Not needing or wanting more than 40 to be honest.

I love the current run time with the 2S doing little bashing off-road on open areas, the motor never overheats and car super stable, however sometimes I would like to do some speed runs.

I am very new running a car with LIPO batteries so I apologize about how newbie my questions are:

Do I need to get a 3S and change gearing accordingly to reach the desired top speed? If thatís the case, what recommendations for Pinion/Spur and 3S spec to archive a jump from around 25mph to 35mph? Does it even work that way which you could target a desired top speed to optimize run time?

Some important specs are (based on manuals)

- 1:10 stadium truck with Reedy 3300kV brushless

- ESC: XP SC600-BL 3S LiPo compatible

- Manual says the motor is currently on 19/84

In the case I change the gearing to optimize 3S, what happens then once I put a 2S again? Not sure if itís too much to ask to have the truck compatible or able to use both 2S and 3S depending on the situation.

Thank you very much in advance for any information provided!

Cheers

Hey guys tonight I did a speed test with a speedometer on a nice long straight flat pavement ... and only got a max of 20 mph with the 2S lipo battery. Would this be too slow for a RC10T4.3 even with stock gearing ? the motor barely gets warm after running for a long time full throttle. I double checked the receiver settings. The guy at the store told me I should reach 30 with a 2S and stock gearing.

Thank you for all the help !
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:17 AM
  #14374  
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Yes you should be getting more out of that motor. I stopped using it 'cause it was too much for loose track. With the 87T spur gear on, the biggest pinion that will fit is a 23T. I'd put on a 21T pinion gear and go from there.

Possibly your slipper is so loose, your motor's power is not getting to the tires? Make sure your tranny, and driveline are free moving with the pinion and spur gear disengaged. I doubt something is binding since that would usually make a motor work harder; make more heat.

Another question or two:

Did you calibrate the transmitter and ESC throttle settings?
Does your RC go faster in reverse?
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Old 05-15-2018, 10:22 AM
  #14375  
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Originally Posted by rustyus View Post
Yes you should be getting more out of that motor. I stopped using it 'cause it was too much for loose track. With the 87T spur gear on, the biggest pinion that will fit is a 23T. I'd put on a 21T pinion gear and go from there.

Possibly your slipper is so loose, your motor's power is not getting to the tires? Make sure your tranny, and driveline are free moving with the pinion and spur gear disengaged. I doubt something is binding since that would usually make a motor work harder; make more heat.

Another question or two:

Did you calibrate the transmitter and ESC throttle settings?
Does your RC go faster in reverse?
Hi Rusty,

the folks from AE said they don't put the fastest gearing on a RTR car, so change gearing is needed for more speed watching closely the motor temp.

Now having said that, my current is 18/87 but the manual recommends: 19/84

I also saw the following options online from different people: 19/83 , 20/87 , 24/81

Thank you !
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Old 05-16-2018, 09:06 AM
  #14376  
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Quick update guys: I re-calibrated the ESC and speed went up from 20 to 25 mph which is great news ! This was thanks to one of all recommendations in forums so thanks !

A different question now: If I want to bump top speed from 25 mph to 30 mph, re-gearing sounds like an option. Current pinion is 18T but the motor manual says 19T is a safe average. Should I try a 19T pinion to test speed and temperature or should I jump to one even higher like 20 or 23 ?

Note: the motor is still only warm by running at 25 mph for quite a while, looks like there is room for temperature there and re-gearing.

Thanks guys !
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Old 05-16-2018, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by superticky View Post
Quick update guys: I re-calibrated the ESC and speed went up from 20 to 25 mph which is great news ! This was thanks to one of all recommendations in forums so thanks !

A different question now: If I want to bump top speed from 25 mph to 30 mph, re-gearing sounds like an option. Current pinion is 18T but the motor manual says 19T is a safe average. Should I try a 19T pinion to test speed and temperature or should I jump to one even higher like 20 or 23 ? ...
Glad to hear you are getting more outta the motor. It's always nice to have a good range, or assortment of pinions on hand when you're testing motors. Like I said earlier, I'd start with a 21T pinion and go from there. It been quite awhile since I used the Reedy. I got rid of my setup sheet from when I was using the Reedy 3300kV. Maybe I'll strap it on again once the weather gets nice.
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Old 09-10-2018, 11:14 AM
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Hello everyone!

I have a (maybe) simple question: a few months ago I bought a Team Associated 1/10 2WD RC10T4.3 stadium truck and still enjoying it a lot!
Only modification I had to do was to change the pinion from 18T to 23T to get a speed bump from 23mph to 28 mph with 2S. (I have some previous posts here about it)

A friend is offering me for free a spare but brand new Castle creations 1410 sensorless 3800kv motor (just motor, no ESC) since I have a 1/10 scale 2wd light car which matches the sweet spot of this motor.

Question is: can I and should I try this motor on my T4.3 using the same ESC? In case yes what would be the benefits? Should I change gearing?

Current motor is: Reedy 540-SL4 Sensorless Brushless Motor 3300kv

I’m not sure the impact a 3800 would have over a 3300 in my car, esc and gearing.

Current ESC is supposed to handle the castle 3800kv since the specs are:

Reedy SC600-BL Sensorless Brushless ESC. Motor Limit with 2S LiPo 3900kV

My current gearing with the 3300kv is 23T 87 and I get max 28mph. Motor still warm, not hot except when there is thick dirt or short grass. Hot but still touchable with hands.

Is it worth the trouble?

Thank you guys!
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Old 09-10-2018, 12:54 PM
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You can buy an ESC/motor combo for $130. 4600 KV motor is very fast. I geared down.18/90
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Castle-Crea...0AAOSwK6NbfTNN
You WILL cook the ESC with just that motor.
Any speed above 30 MPH and the tires will be pie plates.
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Old 09-10-2018, 01:12 PM
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$130 is a lot more money than free . . .

it should be fine to try it. I would start with your original gearing you had and go from there like you did with the other motor.
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Old 09-10-2018, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bobf24 View Post
it should be fine to try it. I would start with your original gearing you had and go from there like you did with the other motor.
Careful. I think reedy escís are just for sensored motors, The Castle motor is sensorless. I also donít believe that ďkvĒ rating will be a fixed value across these platforms.
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Old 09-10-2018, 07:15 PM
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The Castle 3800kv sensorless motor will be fine with the Reedy SC600-BL Sensorless ESC. Just don't do what I did, and stick a 3660 sized 4500kv motor on the back end of a T4 with a gear diff. Testing the motor should have been done on dirt, but gear cover would not fit the long motor shaft.The gear diff didn't last too long. Of course, not help from me locking the slipper down while doing WOT takeoffs, then locking up tires.
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Old 09-11-2018, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post


Careful. I think reedy esc’s are just for sensored motors, The Castle motor is sensorless. I also don’t believe that “kv” rating will be a fixed value across these platforms.
If you actually read his post his current reedy set up is sensorless . . .

Also even if the KV ratings aren't totally equivalent they would be close enough that if you are being careful and watching temps it would be fine.
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Old 09-24-2018, 12:17 PM
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Six runs with the F540 3100kv motor; on gimpy T4.3 differential, is all it took for me to call it quits for the time being. The last run totally ruined the diff gears. It sounded like it anyway. Time for rebuild, or replacement. I won't exactly know until I open 'er up later. This is my first experience with an Associated 1/10 gear diff going out on me. Totally my fault.

I think I've read just about every T4/SC10 thread there is. I've never seen/heard anyone use more than one shim behind each of the gears inside the gear diff. I know I used two shims behind the sun gear on my 1/8 scale buggy and, BOOM, I was back in business. The T4/SC10 gear diff has no more play/room behind the sun gear for another shim...I've tried. Oh, how I've tried.

Is it safe to say, once the planet gears are shot, it's time to just replace them?
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Old 02-24-2019, 08:16 PM
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Just checking if there are any B4 / T4 guys still out there?
I got my B4.1 in january, so I'm new to this.. I installed a hobbywing XERUN justock ecs and motor 17.5 . still running nimh batteries
gearing is 27/69.
most of my running is on dirt road / yard and want to put a T4 front suspension on it .
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