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Old 01-11-2011, 01:21 PM
  #13981  
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Originally Posted by rcguy76559
so anybody run the t4 chassis for buggy?? Also what body would you run for buggy with t4 chassis?
A guy in the B/T4.1 thread did.

I believe he claimed it didn't have enough steering and was going to try some other things.

He used a Proline B44.1 Bulldog body, fit nicely too.

EDIT: Here you go

Originally Posted by spunkysandoval
I tried out the t4 composite chassis on my b4 today. It ws pretty fast in the turns as I expected, but it suffered from lack of initial turn in. It would understeer very bad, but it was smooth and stable around fast turns. I had the shocks laid all the way in front and rear with 30wt all around. I think I will go down to 27.5 all around, green springs in back, and see if the turn in improves at all...

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Old 01-11-2011, 01:38 PM
  #13982  
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JConcepts makes a J8 buggy body for the T4.

Is it legal to run a T4 chasis? Its siginificantly longer than a B4.
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Old 01-11-2011, 01:47 PM
  #13983  
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Originally Posted by Ed237
JConcepts makes a J8 buggy body for the T4.

Is it legal to run a T4 chasis? Its siginificantly longer than a B4.
Yes, the wheelbase(288mm) would still be under the Roar limit of 292mm
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Old 01-11-2011, 02:01 PM
  #13984  
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yeah thanks for info i just found it to. I bet you can fix the lack of initial turn in with some added weight in front or something. I bet having a longer chassis has more rear weight bias than front vs the buggy chassis will have a closer bias of front to rear weight. That's why loose of steering. What do you guys think???
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Old 01-11-2011, 04:52 PM
  #13985  
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what should my gearing be for cc castle creations sct combo in my t4 i currently run 19/84 i think i am undergeared cause my esc gets to about 115 and my motor gets to 92 max
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:56 AM
  #13986  
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checking setups whats everyone running for ride heights? 31mm/31mm on the t4 seems kinda low in the front visually, but it will definately give me that little extra steering i was missing at 34mm/31mm.

in the b4 23.5mm/23.5mm seems right on the dot at arms slightly bellow level front and bones level rear.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:10 AM
  #13987  
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Best to lower the ride height when you are running on high traction or having roll issues, 23m or even lower..



Raise the car
On slippery surfaces or med traction 24m....
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Old 01-13-2011, 05:42 PM
  #13988  
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Urgent question:

Has anyone had their top shaft (transmission) in their B4 start making weird noises?

A week ago, I went off of a pretty big jump and when I landed my B4 started making a sound similar to a loose pinion.
I rebuilt the transmission and realized that the top shaft has a lot of play and is making a grinding noise. At higher rpms, it makes a sound similar to a 2 stroke engine.

I think it might be the top shaft spacer or the bearings that are causing this.

Any ideas?
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Old 01-13-2011, 06:02 PM
  #13989  
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Originally Posted by squidd
Urgent question:

Has anyone had their top shaft (transmission) in their B4 start making weird noises?

A week ago, I went off of a pretty big jump and when I landed my B4 started making a sound similar to a loose pinion.
I rebuilt the transmission and realized that the top shaft has a lot of play and is making a grinding noise. At higher rpms, it makes a sound similar to a 2 stroke engine.

I think it might be the top shaft spacer or the bearings that are causing this.

Any ideas?
Might check that the gear is not slipping on the top shaft. I believe it is pressed fit.
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Old 01-13-2011, 06:27 PM
  #13990  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Best to lower the ride height when you are running on high traction or having roll issues, 23m or even lower..



Raise the car
On slippery surfaces or med traction 24m....
I have to agree with this 100%. Every time I've EVER tried to adjust droop for a tacky track, all it does is make the car way less forgiving in the bumps and jumps in a situation where you want more forgiveness, and it doesn't actually lower the CG of the car, even though it prevents a little roll in the corner. Lowering ride height on the other hand lowers CG and roll in the corners while maintaining forgiveness of the retained down travel.

Wayne
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Old 01-13-2011, 08:20 PM
  #13991  
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Originally Posted by Jmuck69
Might check that the gear is not slipping on the top shaft. I believe it is pressed fit.
It does sound like the top shaft and idler gear are grinding together. Its making a weedwacker sound now.

And what do you mean by pressed fit?
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Old 01-14-2011, 01:36 AM
  #13992  
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Originally Posted by Razathorn
I have to agree with this 100%. Every time I've EVER tried to adjust droop for a tacky track, all it does is make the car way less forgiving in the bumps and jumps in a situation where you want more forgiveness, and it doesn't actually lower the CG of the car, even though it prevents a little roll in the corner. Lowering ride height on the other hand lowers CG and roll in the corners while maintaining forgiveness of the retained down travel.

Wayne
well i was just asking because i used some high tech equipement (stacks of pennies, used to work for tc lol) and my ride height on the buggy was around around 23mm F - 24mm R which seems the acceptable range so i split the difference front and rear and leveled it out. but the truck seemed very "pushy" on some lower speed sections, and just like i thought, even tho i was running the standard "arms and bones level" the front was still like 2.5mm higher then the rear, but dropping it down to an even 31mm/31mm the front seems alot bellow 'arms level' but im sure this change will get me the steering i was really missing on the truck, the buggy drives almost perfect just the competion in my area is at a really high level.
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Old 01-14-2011, 01:41 AM
  #13993  
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Originally Posted by squidd
It does sound like the top shaft and idler gear are grinding together. Its making a weedwacker sound now.

And what do you mean by pressed fit?
someone locally had that, cleaned the gears using a wire brush, and replace the bearings on the top shaft ends and it was all better, there is alot of power that goes through the top shaft, and the bearings can take a beating overtime
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:24 AM
  #13994  
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Originally Posted by Jake S
someone locally had that, cleaned the gears using a wire brush, and replace the bearings on the top shaft ends and it was all better, there is alot of power that goes through the top shaft, and the bearings can take a beating overtime
+1.....check the gears for a tiny pebble or even piece of metal.....it has happened to me more than once.....usually its a tiny pebble in the spur gear....almost sounds like a nitro car goin round the track and a click click click goin very slow ...
lol
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Old 01-14-2011, 10:43 AM
  #13995  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Nope , rotation is always slower if U you go shorter...

Try moving the rear arms forward .090 , you would experience or notice the slower rotation easier...
Car almost stalls in middle of turn..



tip

longer car has more leverage to swing the rear end around
Moving the arms forward is different from a longer chassis. Moving the arms forward places the rear tires closer to the center of the vehicle, increasing pressure (and traction) on the rear tires. Although I'm not familiar with the way the longer chassis affects weight distribution, if it had equal proportions f/r, rotation would be slower due to a higher moment of inertia.
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