34LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
01-03-2011, 07:22 AM
Originally Posted by Tom87
To the guy with the slow tekin, you are geared way wrong. It is a really good motor system when set up right.
With no timing (no hot wire) run 72/28
When you get hot wire run the profile 5 setup with 78/24
With no timing (no hot wire) run 72/28
When you get hot wire run the profile 5 setup with 78/24
01-03-2011, 07:31 AM
Tech Initiate
I am a new b4 owner and am loving this car! I picked a ft roller up for 100 and threw some extra stuff I had laying around and it is my new favorite car to drive. I am just a little bit overpowered and am having some overheating issues. I am running a mmp/tekin 5.5 what pinion should I be running? I have an 83 spur gear. What springs are you guys running also?
01-03-2011, 07:40 AM
Originally Posted by ironwalker
I am a new b4 owner and am loving this car! I picked a ft roller up for 100 and threw some extra stuff I had laying around and it is my new favorite car to drive. I am just a little bit overpowered and am having some overheating issues. I am running a mmp/tekin 5.5 what pinion should I be running? I have an 83 spur gear. What springs are you guys running also?
i run brown front silver rear with 5000 batt no other weight. for a 5.5 somewhere around fdr 11 83spur pinion 19-20 that is a good starting point.
01-03-2011, 07:16 PM
Tech Rookie
I'm just getting back into racing after a very long absence (20yrs). I have a question about rebuilding shocks, or specifically refilling. On my old RC10 Graphite, the shock caps had nice little rubber bladder cups, so the shock was filled with oil and no air contamination...the bladder took up the oil displaced by the shock shaft on compression. I noticed on my B4 that this feature is no longer used?? Can't imagine why. It seems to make so much sense, but they must have eliminated it for some reason? I'm thinking of using these bladders from my old RC10 on the new...any reason not to?
01-03-2011, 07:32 PM
I know this should be in the b4.1 thread but I'm sure you guys have gotten them. How do you prevent the rubbing of the springs on the shock bodies on the the V2 shock?
01-03-2011, 08:05 PM
Originally Posted by JTT
I'm just getting back into racing after a very long absence (20yrs). I have a question about rebuilding shocks, or specifically refilling. On my old RC10 Graphite, the shock caps had nice little rubber bladder cups, so the shock was filled with oil and no air contamination...the bladder took up the oil displaced by the shock shaft on compression. I noticed on my B4 that this feature is no longer used?? Can't imagine why. It seems to make so much sense, but they must have eliminated it for some reason? I'm thinking of using these bladders from my old RC10 on the new...any reason not to?
01-03-2011, 08:06 PM
t4.1 ft
cc sct sidewinder combo
blue shocks front
green rear
19/84 still in testing might change
cc sct sidewinder combo
blue shocks front
green rear
19/84 still in testing might change
01-03-2011, 08:18 PM
Nice avatar Joe.
01-03-2011, 08:30 PM
ya thanks just go my t4.1 ft from the track hobby shop owner for 100 roller i just had throw in all my electronics its dialed i love it
01-03-2011, 09:09 PM
JTT, the shock bladder is basically a tuning aid for electric 1/10th scale now. I am not sure why they stopped, maybe due to fairly short races it didn't make a "Big" difference. Maybe it saves a dollar a car, not sure.
In any event the shocks on the AE cars are considered oil/air emulsion, aka, they are tuned for air and oil mixing. The good thing is this makes it easier to keep the handling consistent, at least it has proven to be the case for me.
I'd be more concerned with the shock bodies and if they will accept the o-rings without tearing them during assembly. Some bodies have a sharp ridge and cut them if you rush, some also have shallow snap ring grooves.
Keep your eyes peeled, although I haven't seen as many lately.
In any event the shocks on the AE cars are considered oil/air emulsion, aka, they are tuned for air and oil mixing. The good thing is this makes it easier to keep the handling consistent, at least it has proven to be the case for me.
I'd be more concerned with the shock bodies and if they will accept the o-rings without tearing them during assembly. Some bodies have a sharp ridge and cut them if you rush, some also have shallow snap ring grooves.
Keep your eyes peeled, although I haven't seen as many lately.
01-04-2011, 05:38 AM
Hey guys, I have a few questions about the T4.1
I've been looking into the 10TT and the T4.1 to buy for my next rig but still not sure what to go with. What I want it for is mostly bashing and some backyard track racing. My track is only 20x40 so no need for crazy speeds..lol
Anyways I'm thinking for bashing the BL RTR would be best plus the 2.4 would be nice to have as a spare for future rigs.
How is the BL system?
Any issues with the stock truck that needs to be adressed right away?
Also would like to pick up spare parts to have and to get the order up to $300 so I get the $60 off. What would you guys suggest adding to my order?
Thanks guys
I've been looking into the 10TT and the T4.1 to buy for my next rig but still not sure what to go with. What I want it for is mostly bashing and some backyard track racing. My track is only 20x40 so no need for crazy speeds..lol
Anyways I'm thinking for bashing the BL RTR would be best plus the 2.4 would be nice to have as a spare for future rigs.
How is the BL system?
Any issues with the stock truck that needs to be adressed right away?
Also would like to pick up spare parts to have and to get the order up to $300 so I get the $60 off. What would you guys suggest adding to my order?
Thanks guys
01-04-2011, 06:11 AM
Originally Posted by rcjoe99
ya thanks just go my t4.1 ft from the track hobby shop owner for 100 roller i just had throw in all my electronics its dialed i love it
Really high Fdr?It seems like alot of guys are going 84-19,20
01-04-2011, 08:20 AM
no its wallnutz old t4.1 ft i haven't had a chance to test temps on the gearing
Last edited by rcjoe99; 01-04-2011 at 02:11 PM.
01-04-2011, 04:03 PM
Tech Rookie
Originally Posted by W.E.D.Jim
JTT, the shock bladder is basically a tuning aid for electric 1/10th scale now. I am not sure why they stopped, maybe due to fairly short races it didn't make a "Big" difference. Maybe it saves a dollar a car, not sure.
In any event the shocks on the AE cars are considered oil/air emulsion, aka, they are tuned for air and oil mixing. The good thing is this makes it easier to keep the handling consistent, at least it has proven to be the case for me.
I'd be more concerned with the shock bodies and if they will accept the o-rings without tearing them during assembly. Some bodies have a sharp ridge and cut them if you rush, some also have shallow snap ring grooves.
Keep your eyes peeled, although I haven't seen as many lately.
In any event the shocks on the AE cars are considered oil/air emulsion, aka, they are tuned for air and oil mixing. The good thing is this makes it easier to keep the handling consistent, at least it has proven to be the case for me.
I'd be more concerned with the shock bodies and if they will accept the o-rings without tearing them during assembly. Some bodies have a sharp ridge and cut them if you rush, some also have shallow snap ring grooves.
Keep your eyes peeled, although I haven't seen as many lately.
01-04-2011, 07:32 PM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
Just quick question for you guys and what you do. But I have a FT b4 with the carbon battery strap and I just bought a protek lipo for racing. One problem the battery is to tall for the battery strap to fit between the battery and gotten of the shock tower. As of right now I just put the end of the strap on top of the shock tower and just clip it like usual. I'm just wondering if anyone has had the same problem and how they fixed it.
Thanks,
Brian
Thanks,
Brian
