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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 12-09-2010, 01:46 PM
  #13861  
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thanks for the help guys! I got the servo fixed. I had mounts on backwards and also found a set of spacers.
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Old 12-09-2010, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg View Post
There is a chart somewhere (can't find it right now) about the difference in the pistons and the pack effect they have. The Losi piston was something that some people were trying. I think the current Cav. set-up use #2 pistons to start with. Just depends on your driving and track.
I just found this http://www.petitrc.com/setup/OffRoad...istonChart.pdf might be what you were thinking of, handy little chart actually.
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Old 12-09-2010, 06:50 PM
  #13863  
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I have a problem, I got my racers edge rear hubs and mounted them up with a concern, the crush tube appears to be too long and will not allow me to get the roll pin in with the blue spacer. So do I need a shorter crush tube? or run with out the blue spacer and use the 3/16 spacers with no blue spacer?
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Old 12-09-2010, 06:51 PM
  #13864  
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Originally Posted by dan-o View Post
I have a problem, I got my racers edge rear hubs and mounted them up with a concern, the crush tube appears to be too long and will not allow me to get the roll pin in with the blue spacer. So do I need a shorter crush tube? or run with out the blue spacer and use the 3/16 spacers with no blue spacer?
i used the shorter crush tube
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:24 PM
  #13865  
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Default Gearing

Originally Posted by Team Ash View Post
Could someone please let me know a reasonable starting point for gearing a T4 for 17.5 class. Speedy is hobbywing 60A (as set by club), motor is open and I will use either H/wing 17.5 non sensored or an Epic duo. I have both of those so I will try them and then decide.
Track has straight about 35/40 yds long with lots of tight corners surface is loose dry but mostly run watered down so grip is pretty good. (good enough to wheel stand easily if slipper is a bit tight)

Thanks in advance
Terry
http://www.comeseethis.com/gearing/Default.aspx
This web site has gearing information!
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:28 PM
  #13866  
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Originally Posted by STLNLST View Post
Tekin RS is my speedo of choice.
I'm running the LRP SXX with a Novak 6.5. We run a Open class at our indoor track. I can clear the triple with no problem! Wicked fast!
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Old 12-13-2010, 04:00 PM
  #13867  
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Questions??

I have a B4.1 RTR, what part number do I need to convert from Gear Differential to Ball Differential?

Thanks!
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Old 12-16-2010, 11:23 PM
  #13868  
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Default Lightweight vs 'Heavy' setup experience.

I just got done dialing in a new b4 'heavy' setup over the past few weeks of racing and then switching right back to my old lightweight setup to compare them. I felt I dialed both setups styles in well and experimented with both over the past 2 months. I spent much longer on the lightweight setup because that's what I started with originally on this b4.

The basic theme here is the lightweight setups have more rear travel and the shocks mounted on the inside of the front arms with the battery toward the front and no weight, while the heavy setups have less rear travel with the front shocks mounted in the outside on the arms (more shock travel to compensate, but same droop as lightweight) and the battery mounted in the back with weight in the rear. I list the exact setups that I ended up with for both styles later.

Lightweight setup pros/cons:
  1. More off power steering with less drag brake
  2. More forgiving landing less-than-perfect
  3. Keeps corner line better when coming off brake and transitioning on throttle.
  4. More stable / less 'twitchy' when hitting a jump, especially when bleeding speed off on the face
  5. Feels more balanced front/rear
  6. Less on power steering

Heavy setup pros/cons:
  1. Less off power steering until you use more drag brake, but same overall off power steering capability (weight in rear keeps the rear more planted with more drag brake it seemed)
  2. More high speed steering -- not dramatically more, but noticeable. More accurately, the car pushes a little less when you really push it in a corner on power.
  3. Less forgiving on landings, especially when landing on one front wheel -- tends to "pole vault" instead of absorb the impact.
  4. More sensitive to front wheel input on the face of jumps -- far easier to "whip it" but less forgiving when hitting a jump lined up less than perfect.
  5. Feels obvious that the weight is in the rear -- kinda like driving a segway with a wheelie bar in the front... gotta drive the rear around and smack the front down to get steering.

Conclusions:
If you only drive 2wd buggy, or you're really good at going between classes with different driving styles, I think the heavy style has a slight edge in that it has a bit more high speed steering and may be able to be driven harder if you're a 2wd ace. If you have to go between classes on the same night, the lightweight style makes the car feel much more forgiving. I will be sticking with the lightweight style for the time being as I go between 2wd and 4wd and it really makes the difference forgiveness wise when I drive the 2wd too hard and feels more like the 4wd in the corners. Overall, the difference is almost a wash. I don't feel that one is much better than the other -- just different strokes for different folks with perhaps the heavy setup styles allowing the best of the best to do a little better.

The Setups:
Both setups had zero degree hubs, 30 degree caster blocks, brown front springs, green rear springs, 30 weight oil all around, rear shocks mounted all the way inside on (new) tower and inside on the arm, front shocks mounted all the way inside, 24mm rear ride height, 23mm front, middle hub placement, middle hole on rear hubs, inner hole on front caster blocks, inner hole on rear camber plate, inner camber hole on front tower, #2 pistons all around. I used 30 weight in the rear instead of 25 due to a large drop-off we have with no down-side, normally I use 25 in the rear. I tried using 1 degree blocks in the rear and never cared for how darty it made the car feel with either style when traction was at a surplus.

Lightweight specifics:
3 ball stud washers up front, 2 in the rear, front shocks mounted inside on arm with two limiters, rear shocks with 1 limiter, battery in the forward position, no weight. Black springs in the rear work better when the track is REALLY slick, but push like crazy if traction is a surplus, making greens the default choice. I tried the weight in the rear with this setup but too, but it felt better without it, which really confused me, but it is what it is.

Heavy specifics:
2 ball stud washers up front, 1 in the rear, front shocks mounted outside on the arm with no limiters and eyes unscrewed 2 turns, rear shocks with 2 limiters, battery in the back position, 1/4 oz in each rear triangle, 1/2 oz on rear toe-block. 35 weight oil in the front was used initially, but I preferred 30.

Wayne
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:49 PM
  #13869  
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What would be a good setup to run if you are new to r/c racing in general . what is more forgiving on the track .

the track is mixture of soil and clay , not high traction , soft texture . not to tight or technical .

I am running a T4 . 27T stock motor . 20t pinion 87spur
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:10 PM
  #13870  
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Originally Posted by prinsipe View Post
I have a B4.1 RTR, what part number do I need to convert from Gear Differential to Ball Differential?

Thanks!
Download the pdf manual and get all the part numbers from there. There are a few of them.
Diff balls, thrust balls, rings, washers, diff gear,idler gear, idler pin, topshaft, bearings, trans case, outdrives, and others.
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Old 12-17-2010, 10:54 PM
  #13871  
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What pinion / spur ratio should I use if i am running a hpi firebolt 15turn motor?? Thanks
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:20 PM
  #13872  
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Originally Posted by prinsipe View Post
I have a B4.1 RTR, what part number do I need to convert from Gear Differential to Ball Differential?

Thanks!
ASC9853 SC10/B4.1/T4.1 Ball Diff

It's a direct replacement for the gear diff that comes in the RTR.
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Old 12-19-2010, 08:54 PM
  #13873  
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@trackside drivers:

what is your suspension setup for your B4's?
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:07 PM
  #13874  
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For you guys with the new FT shocks that want cleaner longer lasting seals...

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Old 12-21-2010, 05:57 PM
  #13875  
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what is a acceptable amount of angle allowed on the steering servo arm/ballcup link ?

i have a standard JR Z250 servo installed on my T4 , and the manual states I should be using the 'thin' spacer provided , along with the correct servo arm .

However ... the manual on says that ONLY the JR Z270 servo can be mounted with the supplied servo arm .

so since I am using a different servo than any that are listed in the manual , I Have a servo arm & ball link angle .

the steering works fine , but is this ok ?



I realize that one of the spacers on the passenger side of the chassis is on incorrectly .

But I have stipped the screw on the chassis , and don't know how to remove it to fix the spacer .
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