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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 07-18-2006, 07:37 AM
  #1351  
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Your slipper's starting point is 4 turns in from the outer edge.

Your diff's setting should be tighten all the way then back out 1/8th of a turn. Not sure if you just messed up in your typing, but that could be the reason why you are spinning out if you have your slipper tightened all the way down like that.

Your diff is basically a set it, break it in, retighten, and should be good to go.

You can adjust the slipper based on track conditions, but always be sure that you don't hear barking when you land your jumps. Otherwise that means your diff is taking the brunt of the hits when you land your jumps. You can tell your slipper is to loose if you here this whining sound when you gun it and it lasts longer then 2 to 3 feet.


I don't have any issues with the T4 front arms. They are strong enough. Nothing is going to withstand a hard yank on the pipe. If you need a bit more strength, then I suggest using the standard A-Arms since the plastic has more flex and is less likely to break in a hard impact compared to the FT Arms. Nobody makes a delrin arm for the T4. Remember it's easier to replace an Arm than to have to replace the front chassis brace.
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:16 AM
  #1352  
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I just know of alot of drivers switching over to the Losi MF2 because it is not so frail on the front end. And these are guys that are good drivers not the type that bounces off the pipes all the time. They just got fed up with DNFing races due to the weak front arms breaking after a light hit. I was hoping that someone else had notice this too and maybe addressed it. Also, the plastic also has the same problem and breaks in the same place, at the inner hingepin.
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:20 AM
  #1353  
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I ran a T4 for the first time this last Weekend aqt a big race and TQ'd Stock and got 2nd in Mod.

I broke a front arm in practice along with the bulkhead and also broke an arm in the 3rd Amain of Mod truck. Both of which I clipped a pipe off a jump and believe the MF2 would of broke something as well.

I find the T4 to be just as durable as an MF2 so far.


Just my $0.02
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Old 07-18-2006, 09:28 AM
  #1354  
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I have heard that you will be able to take the aluminum front bulk head and the beefed up front a-arms off of a rc10 gt2 and run them on the t-4. This should make the t-4 very durable. However, the t-4 has still proven to be a faster car when in the right hands. If you crash at a big race then odds are you will hopefully be dropping that time any ways.
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Old 07-18-2006, 10:55 AM
  #1355  
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I agree that the rest of the T4 is just as durable as the MF2 having spent considerable time with both trucks. It is just that the MF2's front arms are much more durable than the T4 counterparts. Now saying that the T4 is proven to be a faster truck is a misconception especially if you base your findings on the pro drivers. These drivers will be on top no matter if the run for Losi or AE. Both trucks are well designed and very competitive with each other. It comes down to who has the best setup and driving skill.
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:31 PM
  #1356  
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Gater,

I think you should look elsewhere for your rear traction solutions. If you use the slipper as a traction control device (which is not really its intended purpose) I think you will find:

(a) Over time you will exit corners on the gas with the slipper slipping, at a certain point it hooks up (over time this point can become quite sudden). At the point it hooks up you are well on the gas and hey how, let go, you bag up the back end and she spins out.

(b) You will *forever* be adjusting your slipper and there will be races where you have it too loose, and this will definitely cost you places, as well as probably your slipper as well.

(c) It will always be inconsistent and this will reflect in your driving.

As a general comment, the transmission on the T4 is super super tough and can take a ton of abuse without too much drama. I am running a Novak 5.5 in my T4 which is about as hot a motor as anyone would generally run (at least for racing) and I've been running with my slipper really nipped up tight with no problems so far. Before the Novak I was running a Cobalt 10x1 flatwire, so I think I have tested the transmission pretty thoroughly. Our track has the usual number of jumps, and the tranny has been just fine.

There are other ways to get rear traction - tyres, setup, Tx expo and so on. Lots of setups call for lead ballast in the back of the truck as well.

Mike


Originally Posted by gatermaxx
How often do you guys adjust your slipper (T4)?
I set mine according to the directions in here, all the way in then 1/8 turn out and check for tightness, ran a pack and checked again, seemed fine. At the race this past weekend it was doing allright in practice, then after the track loosened up a little, I was spinning cookies, and not getting the bite I had been gettting earlier, even after the track was swept it was still acting up. The track had swections that were grooved, some potholes and some loose dirt, fairly rough in the non-grooved sections, and very dry. I had my camber at -1 front & back, +1 toe out, 30 degree caster blocks, bow-ties and then lugnuts, (both behaved the same) in the rear and Edge fronts. Stock P2K2 (tuned) 18t, IB3800 2.07-2.10.
Was it having edge tires on instead of ribs?
Would looseining the slipper have helped limit spinning the tires and doing burnouts and 180s?
Would having a 19t pinion have helped?
TIA
Rod
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:50 PM
  #1357  
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Originally Posted by MadMikeB
There are other ways to get rear traction - tyres, setup, Tx expo and so on. Lots of setups call for lead ballast in the back of the truck as well.
It is quite amazing what adding an ounce of lead to the rear of the B4/T4 will do. If you haven't tried it yet, you really should give it a shot.
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Old 07-18-2006, 08:21 PM
  #1358  
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Its strange with this truck, some people break arms, some don't. I haven't broken an arm on this T4 running outdoors ever, and I've got at least 60-90 packs through it. Although I've broke lots of rear axle bearings, rear bulkheads, and rear ballstuds. Hell on the front I even bashed in the front turnbuckles at a 15 degree angle and the arms were still fine. I did break one arm at our carpet track though, I dont think anything would have survived that, not even my XB8, lol.
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Old 07-18-2006, 10:25 PM
  #1359  
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WheelNut,

Not bad :-) Over its (pretty long now) life I've bent or broken:

. Rear arms
. Front arms
. Rear shock towers
. Front shock towers (Either broken or ball cup socket stripped)
. Shock shafts (Bent)
. Drive shafts
. Front bulkhead (broken)
. Rear bulkhead (ball stud mounts stripped)
. Stripped out that little thing at the back of the batt tray which holds the squat shims

And probably some other bits I've forgotten. But that's over probably two years of very hard racing, including when I was learning and couldn't drive two corners without hitting something. Now I'm such an expert I can manage three or even four corners on a good day hahaha.

Mike


Originally Posted by WheelNut
Its strange with this truck, some people break arms, some don't. I haven't broken an arm on this T4 running outdoors ever, and I've got at least 60-90 packs through it. Although I've broke lots of rear axle bearings, rear bulkheads, and rear ballstuds. Hell on the front I even bashed in the front turnbuckles at a 15 degree angle and the arms were still fine. I did break one arm at our carpet track though, I dont think anything would have survived that, not even my XB8, lol.
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:46 AM
  #1360  
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Well, alot of has to do with the track you run. If you run on a tight, technical track (every lane including the small straight is 8' wide) that uses pvc pipes to outline the lanes it tends to be harsher on the front ends of these trucks. I notice that on the tracks that use the corregated black plastic pipe that the cars seem to break less on small impacts.
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Old 07-19-2006, 01:25 PM
  #1361  
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I sure wish I could count the parts I`v broken on my ride, but it would take forever...

If you break , its part of game of pushing it to the limit...
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Old 07-20-2006, 10:24 AM
  #1362  
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The only bad thing about not breaking stuff is that then it wears out, then you've got to replace it anyways!
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Old 07-21-2006, 06:52 AM
  #1363  
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I'll be building a FT T4 kit tonight, and transferring my electronics over from my RTR T4. I've already been told it would be wise to use the plastic chassis from my RTR. Any other light mods I should look into as I'm building it? Suggestions?
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Old 07-21-2006, 07:35 AM
  #1364  
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As soon as parts for the gt2 come out I would replace the front pivot block and arms with the gt2 arms. The pivot block is alum. and the arms have been beefed up. They are suposed to be a direct bolt on that will not alter the steering/suspension geometry in any way at all.
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Old 07-21-2006, 08:11 AM
  #1365  
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Originally Posted by DiscoDan
I'll be building a FT T4 kit tonight, and transferring my electronics over from my RTR T4. I've already been told it would be wise to use the plastic chassis from my RTR. Any other light mods I should look into as I'm building it? Suggestions?
The plastic chassis is recommended so your batts don't short out on the chassis and also it is less rigid so the truck handles a bit better. I like the milled motor plates and rpm gear cover but that's just because they look cool not added function.
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