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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 06-11-2006, 07:25 PM
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These are the best and have lasted a long time as well...
http://www.precisionracingsystems.com/products/8

-Shookie <><
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Old 06-12-2006, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Red Z
Anybody know of anyone who makes RED anodized Titanum parts that would fit the B/T4? Alum would be ok, but not preferred!
I know that GPM racing products does, but I have some purple ones, and they are only died on the outside for color, not actually molded that color all throughout. I think dynamite products makes red, but it's hard to find them for T4's, mostly savages are the parts they make. I would try ebay, it's typically the best way to find aluminum parts like that, that's where I got my purples...or try tower. you can also check out some other part manufacturing companies at www.beatyourtruck.com for some online shops, and part companies of your choice to browse their own web sites.
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:30 PM
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Hey guys I am new to dirt racing, I have a b4 and was wondering what springs and oil you guys are running, I am running on a brand new track, it is starting to come around but does still have some rocks in it, and we brush it off often, so I was also wondering what kinda tires to run.One pro guy said it need more low speed turning as it is a small track not alot of speed.here is the pic of the track.

Thanks Tim
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Poppa Ray
Ok guys I'm new to offroad but not new to RC. I've been running touring and oval for years but I'm starting offroad and have no idea what I'm looking for in tuning a slipper clutch. I've heard that you should hear it slip for like a second off the line and then it should be solid the rest of the time, is that right or is there a some thing else I should look for when I put it on the track?
If you're looking for proper traction and such you should possibly consider your motor too, this could make a big difference. If you have a brushless set up, this can be done through modes on the esc. If your running on a carpet track I would go with a double wound brushed and a triple wound motor for offroad. I'm not too precise with brushed motor termonology so if any of that is incorrect I'm sorry but I'm pretty sure I got the wound type of motor correct on that one. My neo is a little tricky to adjust around the offroad track though, I just started running my t4 on dirt for the first time on a basic track like a few weeks ago so I'm new to offroad racing too.
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Old 06-12-2006, 07:53 PM
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If the track is fairly tight, you can't go wrong running a good 'ole stock motor in the buggy. If it's not open enough, it's kinda hard for the the mods to lay the smack down on the stockers. As for setups, I'd start with the kit setup. The B4 does seem to like a little softer suspension, so browns in the front and blacks in rear should give you a good start. And as for tires, I'd see what the fast guys at the track are running. If it's a soft, loose surface you might do good with step-pins. If it's harder then hole shots or taper pins might be the tire of choice.

Whatever you do, just have fun with it.
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Old 06-13-2006, 06:08 AM
  #1296  
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Default more sidebite:RC10B4

I have a good setup for the B4 for more rear sidebite. I posted it on RC10B4.com, here's the link:

http://www.rc10b4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7646

Try it and let me know what you think, i'm curious how it works on other surfaces. I typically run on hard-packed dusty tracks.
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Old 06-13-2006, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Lost Aggresiva
If the track is fairly tight, you can't go wrong running a good 'ole stock motor in the buggy. If it's not open enough, it's kinda hard for the the mods to lay the smack down on the stockers. As for setups, I'd start with the kit setup. The B4 does seem to like a little softer suspension, so browns in the front and blacks in rear should give you a good start. And as for tires, I'd see what the fast guys at the track are running. If it's a soft, loose surface you might do good with step-pins. If it's harder then hole shots or taper pins might be the tire of choice.

Whatever you do, just have fun with it.
I have some step pins on my t4, and with a brushless they don't bite as well as I would have hoped for loose dirt. If the dirt is a little loose and you're stockin it, yeah that's okay but if it's more than a little loose and you kick it up a knotch with a new motor, then I would suggest more aggressive tires from proline most likely. I don't exactly know if they make all the same models for rear buggy tires, but if you could for looser dirt maybe gladiators might be good, or possibly dirt hawg/dirt paw could have you biting a lot better. I also have some gladiators and hawgs, and the hawgs handle darn good in just about anything, those really are a nice design and since they have em for mini t's I'm pretty sure you can find those for a buggy maybe. You should also typically ask the track owner, always a good choice for traction, he knows.
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Old 06-13-2006, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by AE guy
I have some step pins on my t4, and with a brushless they don't bite as well as I would have hoped for loose dirt. If the dirt is a little loose and you're stockin it, yeah that's okay but if it's more than a little loose and you kick it up a knotch with a new motor, then I would suggest more aggressive tires from proline most likely. I don't exactly know if they make all the same models for rear buggy tires, but if you could for looser dirt maybe gladiators might be good, or possibly dirt hawg/dirt paw could have you biting a lot better. I also have some gladiators and hawgs, and the hawgs handle darn good in just about anything, those really are a nice design and since they have em for mini t's I'm pretty sure you can find those for a buggy maybe. You should also typically ask the track owner, always a good choice for traction, he knows.

In my experience, Dirt Hawgs have been no good on any surface... They're a basher tire designed to last...




LosiManJRXS: Give us some more info on the dirt and we can help you better...
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Old 06-13-2006, 05:30 PM
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Well I got my FT t4 in the mail today. I have a few ??? if someone can answer them. The truck came with a ton of setup sheets from the AE site. I'm going to get everything back to the stock setup, but should I take the 1 1/2 oz. of weight off the back? I noticed That most of the fact. drivers have 1 to 1 1/2 oz. of lead weight in the rear.
It came with a ton of springs, but do the frnts and rears take the same length springs?
Do you guys balance your wheel/tires?
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Old 06-13-2006, 06:21 PM
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I'd leave the weights there since they already are there. I never balance tires other than to spin them on a screwdriver before I glue them and move the tire around a bit on the rim till it's the best I can get it. The front springs should be shorter than the rears and the difference is very noticeable.
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Old 06-13-2006, 06:49 PM
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Tyres are often the tricky choice, and until you get it right, there's little point fiddling with anything else.

As a general observation, if you are willing to stock up, if you get a set of Losi IFMAR Pins, a set of Losi X-2000's or Proline Holeshots, and a set of Proline Bowties I think you would be pretty well covered for most common outdoor dirt track scenarios.

Checking the fast guys at the track is always a good starting point, although not always perfect since they may be particularly good drivers who can get away with a fast, but difficult-to-drive buggy which us mere mortals might find too extreme in one way or another.

MIKE


Originally Posted by Lost Aggresiva
If the track is fairly tight, you can't go wrong running a good 'ole stock motor in the buggy. If it's not open enough, it's kinda hard for the the mods to lay the smack down on the stockers. As for setups, I'd start with the kit setup. The B4 does seem to like a little softer suspension, so browns in the front and blacks in rear should give you a good start. And as for tires, I'd see what the fast guys at the track are running. If it's a soft, loose surface you might do good with step-pins. If it's harder then hole shots or taper pins might be the tire of choice.

Whatever you do, just have fun with it.
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Old 06-13-2006, 07:44 PM
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Lugnuts are also an excellent tire for your truck, I run the lugnuts, bowties outdoors on rough tracks and then evil twins for hard tracks. If you look back a few threads we discussed springs, green in teh rear and silvers up front seem to be the general consensus. I am not weighted in the rear of my t4, not that it means anything, but I doubt I am balanced that well anyways.
HTH
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Old 06-14-2006, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrow1
I'd leave the weights there since they already are there. I never balance tires other than to spin them on a screwdriver before I glue them and move the tire around a bit on the rim till it's the best I can get it. The front springs should be shorter than the rears and the difference is very noticeable.
It seems that the fronts have heavy spots when you free spin them. Maybe I'll try and balance em.
I put fresh shock oil in the front shocks and did notice the length in springs. I have way too many rear spares.
Got the truck back to the kit setup. Except for plastic chassis & 1 1/2 oz. lead in the rear bulkhead/chassis. Can't wait to hit the track this sat.
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Old 06-14-2006, 07:20 PM
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You can replace the 1/8" spacer in the front hubs with 4 .030 limiters and a motor shim to move it around and get more steering. I run 2 spacers and the motor shim in front, and 2 spacers in the rear.

I think you can get thin lead tape at a golf shop to use for balancing your tires. I've read of a few who do this just never tried it myself. Proline T4/GT rims are wobbly out of the package.
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Old 06-14-2006, 07:27 PM
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Heres a few tips 4 off road tires.
glue the holes on the inside of the rims shut and put holes in the rubber. This will allow the tire to breath and keep it from becoming water/dirt logged.

Turn the tire inside out and put a piece of tape around the inside of the tire. Not tightly, just around the tire once. This will keep the tires from turning into cooky cutters if you spin out.

Balancing your tires is important. You should be able to put your car on a stand and rev it without it moving. Unbalanced tires will cause the car to vibrate which will increase wear that will result in pre-mature slop.

As far as rims are concerned if you aren't running tires for 3 heats and tossing them then odds are you should just replace the rims on a 1/10th scale. 1/8th scale is another story, the wheels are just much more durable.
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