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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 06-17-2010, 06:40 PM
  #12871  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Ae ball diff's are fairly easy to assemble & maintain even compared to gear versions..

The extra traction and performance you gain using a ball diff is well worth the time and investment for racing.

at the same time

If you only bash around and do not race, a gear diff will do just fine and will also deliver good performance.....
thanks buddy, All I do is practice/race weekly at an indoor track. Ball diff it is then, nobody could tell me at the track because nobody has ever had a gear diff in a buggy.
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:32 PM
  #12872  
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does anybody know if the b4.1 chassis is longer than the standard chassis?

if so, how much longer?
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:41 PM
  #12873  
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Originally Posted by Brollywood View Post
does anybody know if the b4.1 chassis is longer than the standard chassis?

if so, how much longer?
It's the same part number as the B4, so I would say that it's going to be the same length.
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:41 PM
  #12874  
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Originally Posted by Brollywood View Post
does anybody know if the b4.1 chassis is longer than the standard chassis?

if so, how much longer?
Really don't think it is, would have heard about it if it was. What makes you think it's longer?
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:58 PM
  #12875  
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heard talk of it before the b4.1 RTR was released. plus with the new strap and the new body style it seemed logical. also cav was running the new parts at yatabe. so logic says that he was testing new parts that differ from the original. but it seems that i was wrong. as i said i wasnt sure just wanted to find out what was true before i bought a new car for the season.
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:18 PM
  #12876  
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Originally Posted by Brollywood View Post
heard talk of it before the b4.1 RTR was released. plus with the new strap and the new body style it seemed logical. also cav was running the new parts at yatabe. so logic says that he was testing new parts that differ from the original. but it seems that i was wrong. as i said i wasnt sure just wanted to find out what was true before i bought a new car for the season.
Strong rumors have it that the chassis will be longer There will be more updates coming on the AE cars then just some shocks
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:26 PM
  #12877  
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve View Post
Strong rumors have it that the chassis will be longer There will be more updates coming on the AE cars then just some shocks
I haven't read the ROAR rules and don't know the specs but is the B4 maxed out on legal wheelbase?
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:29 PM
  #12878  
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
I haven't read the ROAR rules and don't know the specs but is the B4 maxed out on legal wheelbase?
Since you live in WI maybe you could pick Chad Due's brain a little I'm sure he's in the loop


Maybe he would be able to tell you the new kits to be released will all come with CVA's instead of CVD's Along with some other updates.
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:40 PM
  #12879  
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Originally Posted by pink_sleeve View Post
Since you live in WI maybe you could pick Chad Due's brain a little I'm sure he's in the loop


Maybe he would be able to tell you the new kits to be released will all come with CVA's instead of CVD's Along with some other updates.
I heard all the FT stuff will come with the FT SC10 updates ( CVA's, slipper, and shocks) but I'm not sure if that will be a running change. I'm sure there are ton of FT kits siting around so there is no way to tell if you'll get a "new one".
I don't get down to Milwaukee so I don't know Chad, and I only see Brandon Rhode in the winter so I can't really do any "picking" sorry..lol
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Old 06-17-2010, 11:55 PM
  #12880  
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
I heard all the FT stuff will come with the FT SC10 updates ( CVA's, slipper, and shocks) but I'm not sure if that will be a running change. I'm sure there are ton of FT kits siting around so there is no way to tell if you'll get a "new one".
I don't get down to Milwaukee so I don't know Chad, and I only see Brandon Rhode in the winter so I can't really do any "picking" sorry..lol
It's cool I'm sure everybody is impatiently waiting on both AE a Losi to drop the curtain on a few things
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Old 06-18-2010, 12:06 AM
  #12881  
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Originally Posted by SpraydbySprague View Post
No offense taken.

I see what you are talking about. I think if you mount the turn buckle on the opposite side of the ear, it may not rub. Hmmm.



Actually been there done this one before...


You can make it fit , but not with out changing the camber gain as the wheel travels up & down .


Personally never had a need for that much toe on the B-4 & T-4 ..
For the SC-10 it may be useful however...
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:14 AM
  #12882  
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Originally Posted by mjk1210 View Post
good lord, are you gonna drag race with it? Will it even turn with 1.5 rears?
It's going on the SC10 and that is what the Factory Team kit has.
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Old 06-18-2010, 10:50 AM
  #12883  
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I have my FT B4 working much better on our local track but I have a question about the Racer's Edge 0.5 degree hubs.

The hubs say 0.5 L and 0.5 R. My assumption is that the hub marked 'L' goes on the left side of the car and the hub marked 'R' goes on the right side.

My concern is I could swear these hubs have reduced the amount of toe-in instead of increasing it and the hubs are on backwards.

Does someone have pictures of them installed? Do I have them on backwards?
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Old 06-18-2010, 01:54 PM
  #12884  
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If your aluminum hubs or bearings are worn out, it can easily put you at 1.5 or 2 degrees of rear toe. Fresh .5 hubs and bearings should have buku rear toe in I use 1/4 inch strips of thin paper to take up slop in wallowed out aluminum hubs. I put the paper in the back of the outer bearing and in the front of the inner bearing so it angles the bearings for more toe.
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Old 06-18-2010, 05:19 PM
  #12885  
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Talking Almost Done... Just a little help, Please!

New to the forum and just getting back into racing. Bought a FT T4. Popped for the LRP SXX Stock Spec and the LRP x-12 17.5 motor with MX-3X controller and receiver. I will be racing at OCRC and I have a few questions.

What is the best (not overkill) servo for this truck and set-up? I would like to stay with Airtronics.

Is the chassis in fact plastic as I've read in previous posts or is it carbon? My manual says that the chassis is carbon. I know the RTR comes with plastic and I was told I should buy this before I put the truck together.

Planned on buying an aluminum front bulkhead, aluminum steering blocks and aluminum rear brace. Are any of these recommended? Any other aftermarket upgrades I should purchase before putting this thing together?

I was looking at the Reedy 5000 35C batteries. Are these sufficient for my set-up? If so, what is the recommended charger?

I apologize in advance for pissing anyone off... I did read through over 100 pages of this thread before I decided to post. Thanks for reading.
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