Like Tree34Likes

RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 05-30-2006, 09:05 PM
  #1261  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
AE guy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 122
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Red face

Originally Posted by mztaim
So, I got a Novak GTB with a 5.5.

One hour later, BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!
You busted that in one hour? Whoa not blaming that on you but wow that's fast.
AE guy is offline  
Old 05-31-2006, 12:53 AM
  #1262  
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 4
Default

Heh. No, I didn't bust it. I just started laughing maniacally at the track. I'm gonna enter nitro this weekend. That joker is some kind of fast!!!
mztaim is offline  
Old 05-31-2006, 05:42 PM
  #1263  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (127)
 
RED-LINE M03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: >>> USA <<<
Posts: 4,102
Trader Rating: 127 (100%+)
Default ???

Hey guys can I run my old Losi xxxt truck rims and tires on my newly purchased FT T4.




Thanks for the help.............
RED-LINE M03 is offline  
Old 05-31-2006, 05:49 PM
  #1264  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (26)
 
encore75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: SnoHoCo, WA
Posts: 629
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default Trinity Shock Bushings

For you out there that run the Trinity Shock Bushings, I was wondering if anyone's got any close-up / high-res pictures of them installed on their B4s.

The nut part looks thinner than its counterpart on the AE alloy shock bushings, so I was wondering about clearance issues between the shock cap and the shock tower.

Please PM me if you do. Thanks in advance!
encore75 is offline  
Old 05-31-2006, 06:05 PM
  #1265  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,357
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by RED-LINE M03
Hey guys can I run my old Losi xxxt truck rims and tires on my newly purchased FT T4.
Should be able to run the rears, but the offset is a little different and will take a small amount of your rear width away. Not sure about the fronts.
jbrow1 is offline  
Old 06-01-2006, 04:00 PM
  #1266  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
 
Dustin Howell's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: West Linn, OR
Posts: 393
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default T4 setups

Does anyone have a standard T4 setup that would be good for a tight, indoor, high traction track?

I looked on Associated's site, found several but am wondering if there is the "One" for that type of track.

I'm currently running the stock Factory Team setup, w/ 30 degree caster blocks, and I don't have enough off power steering. I think the truck could be looser.

Thanks
Dustin Howell is offline  
Old 06-01-2006, 05:05 PM
  #1267  
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 1,675
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

what servo are you running? I will check on my set up shortly, worked pretty good at peel-it, which is similar to what you are describing, I think.
Rod
gatermaxx is offline  
Old 06-01-2006, 05:57 PM
  #1268  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
 
Dustin Howell's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: West Linn, OR
Posts: 393
Trader Rating: 17 (100%+)
Default

JR Z4800S servo. Works great in the truck.

Thanks,

Let me know on that setup!
Dustin Howell is offline  
Old 06-01-2006, 07:33 PM
  #1269  
Tech Master
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Richland, WA
Posts: 1,675
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

WEll, I am running 35 in the shocks, front I have silver, middle upper, outer lower holes, and I am running aluminum knukcles with titanium whatever ( have a sinus infection so not thinking to clearly). I am not sure on my caster blocks, but it would be whatever it came with. Have you set the car up with set up blocks? I set mine up for teh first time with blocks adn it made a ton of difference. Also, I was using worn out directional ribs as tires, teh slicks seemed to push to much
HTH
Rod
gatermaxx is offline  
Old 06-01-2006, 08:28 PM
  #1270  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (28)
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Michigan
Posts: 3,357
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default

Have you played with any shock limiting, the wheelbase, or antisquat? You can also take the big spacer out from the steering block and use 5 .030 limiters to take it's place. That way you can move the front blocks around as well as the back blocks.
jbrow1 is offline  
Old 06-02-2006, 08:40 AM
  #1271  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,637
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Dustin Howell
Does anyone have a standard T4 setup that would be good for a tight, indoor, high traction track?

I looked on Associated's site, found several but am wondering if there is the "One" for that type of track.

I'm currently running the stock Factory Team setup, w/ 30 degree caster blocks, and I don't have enough off power steering. I think the truck could be looser.

Thanks
If you are racing on a high-bite surface, try out something similar to what they were using at the 05 Reedy Truck Race. With a few minor changes, you should have lots of steering.
071crazy is offline  
Old 06-03-2006, 09:47 AM
  #1272  
Tech Adept
 
Sp1ke's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Bishan
Posts: 241
Default

hi guys.... i need some tips about slipper clutch and diff settings... i have rebuilt everything on my b4 but my drivetrain seems to be a bit weird...

i used the manual's diff settings and found that my wheels rotate in the SAME direction together WITH the slipper clutch... shouldn't the wheels turn in OPPOSITE directions WITHOUT moving the slipper clutch? i'm using brushless also... is that why? since the motor hardly has any friction at all to hold down the slipper...

when i loosen the diff bolt a bit more, my gear train makes this weird "chirping" sound... like somethings gonna give anytime... any help on this would be appreciated... been rebuilding the tranny about 5 times already... have completely replaced every part on it....
Sp1ke is offline  
Old 06-03-2006, 01:00 PM
  #1273  
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
 
killer89's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: South OC
Posts: 1,600
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Sp1ke
hi guys.... i need some tips about slipper clutch and diff settings... i have rebuilt everything on my b4 but my drivetrain seems to be a bit weird...

i used the manual's diff settings and found that my wheels rotate in the SAME direction together WITH the slipper clutch... shouldn't the wheels turn in OPPOSITE directions WITHOUT moving the slipper clutch? i'm using brushless also... is that why? since the motor hardly has any friction at all to hold down the slipper...

when i loosen the diff bolt a bit more, my gear train makes this weird "chirping" sound... like somethings gonna give anytime... any help on this would be appreciated... been rebuilding the tranny about 5 times already... have completely replaced every part on it....



get the Associated Carbide balls if you don't already have them (if you have them, check them of a piece of glass to make sure they're still round). completely clean out the diff and rebuild it with the new balls, the plates flipped over (or new ones), and good diff lube...

Then tighten it up until its smooth, but has some good resistance turning it. Not free moving. Just go to the kit setting at first...

Then install it in the car and turn the car on. Hold one wheel and put the other in the air. Give it about 1/4 throttle, varying speed. Not fast enough for the tires to balloon. Alternate sides a couple of times and do this for a bout a 30 seconds.

Then hold the spur with the car in the air. Grab one wheel and give it a good hard flick. The opposite wheel should revolve about 1 full turn. If it goes too far, tighten the diff A LITTLE BIT and try again. Not enough and loosen the diff...

Now the diff is set. On to the slipper. First start with a loose setting, so loosen it up.

Hold the rear wheels, and punch the throttle quickly. It should slip a lot and the nose of the car should not come off the ground (because I always start adjusting with a very loose setting). Tighten the slipper nut about 1/8 turn and try again. Get it so that it slips, but the motor doesn't spin too fast and it is slightly (about 1 inch) lifting the front end. Then you're done.

If during the tightening of the slipper, the diff slips (it will make a bad barking noise like the "chirping" you said you heard), then you need to tighten the diff. Or rebuild it because the balls are flat spotted. Thats why you should replace the balls with carbide ones before doing all of this.

Try not to ever run the car when the diff is loose and the diff is chirping, you can easliy flat apot the balls and grid away at the plates...


Hope this helps,
Erik
killer89 is offline  
Old 06-03-2006, 07:11 PM
  #1274  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (2)
 
Lost Aggresiva's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Caledonia, MI
Posts: 256
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Sp1ke
shouldn't the wheels turn in OPPOSITE directions WITHOUT moving the slipper clutch? i'm using brushless also... is that why? since the motor hardly has any friction at all to hold down the slipper...
That is exactly why it is happening. Hold onto the spur gear and then give a wheel a spin again. You should find that your diff is just fine.
Lost Aggresiva is offline  
Old 06-04-2006, 12:56 AM
  #1275  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (127)
 
RED-LINE M03's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: >>> USA <<<
Posts: 4,102
Trader Rating: 127 (100%+)
Default Question

Hey guys will a B4 battery strap work on a T-4. I found some killer straps online but they say their for a B-4. I would think that it would work since the batteries are the same size and lenght?
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4/T4 Forum-imagets2104_600.jpg   RC10B4/T4 Forum-gpm_ab40126s.jpg  
RED-LINE M03 is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.