AE guy

iTrader: (1)

You busted that in one hour? Whoa not blaming that on you but wow that's fast.

mztaim

Heh. No, I didn't bust it. I just started laughing maniacally at the track. I'm gonna enter nitro this weekend. That joker is some kind of fast!!!

RED-LINE M03

iTrader: (127)

Hey guys can I run my old Losi xxxt truck rims and tires on my newly purchased FT T4.




Thanks for the help.............

encore75

iTrader: (26)

For you out there that run the Trinity Shock Bushings, I was wondering if anyone's got any close-up / high-res pictures of them installed on their B4s.

The nut part looks thinner than its counterpart on the AE alloy shock bushings, so I was wondering about clearance issues between the shock cap and the shock tower.

Please PM me if you do. Thanks in advance!

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

Should be able to run the rears, but the offset is a little different and will take a small amount of your rear width away. Not sure about the fronts.

Dustin Howell

iTrader: (17)

Does anyone have a standard T4 setup that would be good for a tight, indoor, high traction track?

I looked on Associated's site, found several but am wondering if there is the "One" for that type of track.

I'm currently running the stock Factory Team setup, w/ 30 degree caster blocks, and I don't have enough off power steering. I think the truck could be looser.

Thanks

gatermaxx

iTrader: (6)

what servo are you running? I will check on my set up shortly, worked pretty good at peel-it, which is similar to what you are describing, I think.
Rod

Dustin Howell

iTrader: (17)

JR Z4800S servo. Works great in the truck.

Thanks,

Let me know on that setup!

gatermaxx

iTrader: (6)

WEll, I am running 35 in the shocks, front I have silver, middle upper, outer lower holes, and I am running aluminum knukcles with titanium whatever ( have a sinus infection so not thinking to clearly). I am not sure on my caster blocks, but it would be whatever it came with. Have you set the car up with set up blocks? I set mine up for teh first time with blocks adn it made a ton of difference. Also, I was using worn out directional ribs as tires, teh slicks seemed to push to much
HTH
Rod

jbrow1

iTrader: (28)

Have you played with any shock limiting, the wheelbase, or antisquat? You can also take the big spacer out from the steering block and use 5 .030 limiters to take it's place. That way you can move the front blocks around as well as the back blocks.

071crazy

iTrader: (8)

If you are racing on a high-bite surface, try out something similar to what they were using at the 05 Reedy Truck Race. With a few minor changes, you should have lots of steering.

Sp1ke

hi guys.... i need some tips about slipper clutch and diff settings... i have rebuilt everything on my b4 but my drivetrain seems to be a bit weird...

i used the manual's diff settings and found that my wheels rotate in the SAME direction together WITH the slipper clutch... shouldn't the wheels turn in OPPOSITE directions WITHOUT moving the slipper clutch? i'm using brushless also... is that why? since the motor hardly has any friction at all to hold down the slipper...

when i loosen the diff bolt a bit more, my gear train makes this weird "chirping" sound... like somethings gonna give anytime... any help on this would be appreciated... been rebuilding the tranny about 5 times already... have completely replaced every part on it....

killer89

iTrader: (41)

get the Associated Carbide balls if you don't already have them (if you have them, check them of a piece of glass to make sure they're still round). completely clean out the diff and rebuild it with the new balls, the plates flipped over (or new ones), and good diff lube...

Then tighten it up until its smooth, but has some good resistance turning it. Not free moving. Just go to the kit setting at first...

Then install it in the car and turn the car on. Hold one wheel and put the other in the air. Give it about 1/4 throttle, varying speed. Not fast enough for the tires to balloon. Alternate sides a couple of times and do this for a bout a 30 seconds.

Then hold the spur with the car in the air. Grab one wheel and give it a good hard flick. The opposite wheel should revolve about 1 full turn. If it goes too far, tighten the diff A LITTLE BIT and try again. Not enough and loosen the diff...

Now the diff is set. On to the slipper. First start with a loose setting, so loosen it up.

Hold the rear wheels, and punch the throttle quickly. It should slip a lot and the nose of the car should not come off the ground (because I always start adjusting with a very loose setting). Tighten the slipper nut about 1/8 turn and try again. Get it so that it slips, but the motor doesn't spin too fast and it is slightly (about 1 inch) lifting the front end. Then you're done.

If during the tightening of the slipper, the diff slips (it will make a bad barking noise like the "chirping" you said you heard), then you need to tighten the diff. Or rebuild it because the balls are flat spotted. Thats why you should replace the balls with carbide ones before doing all of this.

Try not to ever run the car when the diff is loose and the diff is chirping, you can easliy flat apot the balls and grid away at the plates...


Hope this helps,
Erik

Lost Aggresiva

iTrader: (2)

That is exactly why it is happening. Hold onto the spur gear and then give a wheel a spin again. You should find that your diff is just fine.

RED-LINE M03

iTrader: (127)

Hey guys will a B4 battery strap work on a T-4. I found some killer straps online but they say their for a B-4. I would think that it would work since the batteries are the same size and lenght?