Originally Posted by Manning

Anybody run the Novak GTB 7.5 Velociti combo in a T4?

Just wondering if it will be enough...I'm currently running pretty mellow 14 and 15 turn brushed motors and want just a little more power than what they provide. Don't want crazy amounts of power because the tracks I race at are outdoors, usually very dry, and rough and rutted from all the nitro cars crashing, so there's not an abundance of traction....

Originally Posted by jbrow1

Best way to fill em is get em almost to the top. Then place the piston about 1/4" from the top. Fill a little more until it just convexes over the top. Put on top. Check shock to make sure it moves to top fully with no change in resistance. Just keep bleeding until there is no change in resistance from bottom to top. Putting the piston to 1/4 from the top keeps you from wasting so much oil. After awhile you get pretty good and can hit it first shot.
I personally drill 1/16" hole in the top at an angle like the yok caps. Then find a small phillips screw and screw in the hole. You've just made your own trouble free easy to bleed, bleeder tops. I find the screws in a package in the shelf building section at the hardware. Smallest ones you can find. Won't work with aluminum tops.

Originally Posted by Lost Aggresiva

I've been wondering that myself. The 6.5 sounds good, but would the 7.5 be a bit easier to hold on to on the loose stuff. Anyone tried one yet?

Originally Posted by nutfluff

I tried a 7.5 in my 4WD but it wasn't enough so I bought a 6.5 and it's perfect. They are SUPER SMOOTH and FAST. Should be enough to get you going in mod for a long time. Mine is two race days old an would be willing to let it go reasonably cheap!!! PM me!!!!

Originally Posted by Sp1ke

why'd you wanna sell it if it was so good?

Originally Posted by jamescam

Well it took longer than I would have liked and cost more than my wife could have ever imagined but my Dream Stock Racing T4 is finally complete! For those who don't know what I'm talking about go back a few pages and you will find the history.

Attached are pictures of the completed truck, and below are the parts that made the final cut along with my personal price/performance rating:

- Robinson Racing Super Lite Aluminum Pinion - B+
- Team Associated Composite/Plastic Chasis - A
- Team Associated Factory Team Battery Strap Thumbscrews - A+
- Yokomo Bleedable Shock Caps - A+
- Lunsford Titanium Quick Tune Shock Mounts - B-
- Lunsford Titanium Screw Kit - D (price is not worth benefit & no matter how careful you are you will strip at least 1)
- Lunsford Titanium Turnbuckles - B
- Lunsford Titanium Hinge Pins - B
- Lunsford Titanium Front Axles - B+
- Trinity Light Weight Slipper Plates - C- (No weight savings, but they look cool)
- RPM Black Gear Cover - B+
- Acer Racing Ceramic Nitro Pro Series Diff Balls - A+ (smoothest diff I ever built)
- Acer Racing Ceramic Nitro Pro Series Thrust Balls - B-
- Acer Racing Ceramic Nitro Pro Series Ball Bearing Set - D+ (a lot of key bearings not in kit)
- Team Losi Titanium Ball Studs & Ball Cups - B- (great but expensive for ball studs, hex screw is nice!)
- Racer's Edge 0 Degree Hard Anodized Rear Hub Carriers - A-

I will probably add the MIP Shiny CVD's eventually and I am still unsure where to mount the personal transponder. Now onto my next project!

Originally Posted by killer89

He said that the 7.5 wasn't enough for 4wd... 4wds need like 9-11T depending on the track to get going...

Originally Posted by killer89

He said that the 7.5 wasn't enough for 4wd... 4wds need like 9-11T depending on the track to get going...