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Old 05-20-2006, 08:49 AM
  #1201  
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Originally Posted by jbrow1
Check out the B4 forums. Charlie Perez thread in the B4 setup section. Somewhere between pages 70 and 80 he has a picture of how his fan is mounted. Not on the top of the speedo, but glued to the chassis standing up in front of the speedo.
The EXACT page is 84 man... hope this helps....
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Old 05-20-2006, 04:12 PM
  #1202  
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Ran the novak gtb and 6.5 in my T4 today. Man that is one sweet setup. Never got more than warm, super fast, and plenty of low end. Easily adjustable and very easy to install. Love the thing, just wish I had enough $$$ to put one in my wheeler!!
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Old 05-20-2006, 06:10 PM
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Anybody run the Novak GTB 7.5 Velociti combo in a T4?

Just wondering if it will be enough...I'm currently running pretty mellow 14 and 15 turn brushed motors and want just a little more power than what they provide. Don't want crazy amounts of power because the tracks I race at are outdoors, usually very dry, and rough and rutted from all the nitro cars crashing, so there's not an abundance of traction....
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Old 05-20-2006, 08:09 PM
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Sp1ke- I've got a picture but you cant see the other side of the body with the hole in it, lol. This picture will give you an idea of where it is.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...41holespot.jpg
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Old 05-20-2006, 11:43 PM
  #1205  
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hahah i can barely make it out wheelnut... besides, i have already mounted my esc with the fan on the battery brace itself...hahah now need weights to even up my weight bias...
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Old 05-21-2006, 08:59 AM
  #1206  
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if you get the Illuzion body for the B4 with scoops it will have enough room for your fan and you can cut out the scoops for venting.
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Old 05-21-2006, 09:24 AM
  #1207  
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Originally Posted by rcdude19641
if you get the Illuzion body for the B4 with scoops it will have enough room for your fan and you can cut out the scoops for venting.
Bout to tell um ...
Works great !
The airduct & extra space helps keep the ESC cooler...
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Old 05-21-2006, 11:52 AM
  #1208  
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Alright guys. I am a 1/8 buggy racer, but my local track is talking about building a indoor offroad for the winter. What is the best 2wd electric buggy? I know of course the B4 and what does losi have and how do they compare? Also is there a new version of the B4 coming out?
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Old 05-21-2006, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by bmcallister
Alright guys. I am a 1/8 buggy racer, but my local track is talking about building a indoor offroad for the winter. What is the best 2wd electric buggy? I know of course the B4 and what does losi have and how do they compare? Also is there a new version of the B4 coming out?

wait for the XXX-CR to come out and then decide on which one... Apparently, the CR fixes the steering problem with the bk2s, and if this is true, it might just dominate...
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Old 05-21-2006, 02:29 PM
  #1210  
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the losi team ran the cr at the worlds and still had problems but they won the nats with it
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Old 05-22-2006, 05:18 AM
  #1211  
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Originally Posted by rcdude19641
the losi team ran the cr at the worlds and still had problems but they won the nats with it
hmmmmm am i on the wrong side then?? hehehehe...
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Old 05-23-2006, 01:42 PM
  #1212  
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How do you guys build your shocks. I'm having a hard time getting the shock to have the correct rebound and not have air in it. Going by the book leaves way too much oil in the shock.
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Old 05-23-2006, 01:56 PM
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There will normaly be some air left in the shocks. It's just assumed that the air will settle at the top and allow the shock to perform properly.
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Old 05-23-2006, 02:30 PM
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Does anyone know why AE has chosen to stay with this design for so long? What are the benefits to this versus the bladder shocks which seem to be a lot easier to build and build consistently.
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Old 05-23-2006, 03:24 PM
  #1215  
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
How do you guys build your shocks. I'm having a hard time getting the shock to have the correct rebound and not have air in it. Going by the book leaves way too much oil in the shock.
Best way to fill em is get em almost to the top. Then place the piston about 1/4" from the top. Fill a little more until it just convexes over the top. Put on top. Check shock to make sure it moves to top fully with no change in resistance. Just keep bleeding until there is no change in resistance from bottom to top. Putting the piston to 1/4 from the top keeps you from wasting so much oil. After awhile you get pretty good and can hit it first shot.
I personally drill 1/16" hole in the top at an angle like the yok caps. Then find a small phillips screw and screw in the hole. You've just made your own trouble free easy to bleed, bleeder tops. I find the screws in a package in the shelf building section at the hardware. Smallest ones you can find. Won't work with aluminum tops.
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