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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 03-07-2010, 01:09 PM
  #11791  
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I use the Racers Edge hubs and have never had and problems with ball studs breaking. make sure to put some thread lock on the stud before threading it into the hub so that it doesnt back out when youre running. as long as its tight you shouldnt have any problems with breaking studs.
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Old 03-07-2010, 01:10 PM
  #11792  
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Originally Posted by oldandnew View Post
The ball studs only thread in so much they seem to sit up high. I was going to put some washers or maybe even a nut under them. If anybody else is using the Racers Edge ones do yours only thread in so far or did I get one the has shallow threads or something. Thanks
you need shorter threaded ballstud or take a dremel and cut them down.
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Old 03-07-2010, 03:02 PM
  #11793  
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Has anybody been having issues with AE buggy rear wheels lately? I've been through two sets in less than 4 races. They are just cracking and breaking wether it is out on the bead edge or through the center of the wheel itself. Never had this issue before and have owned 2 B4's and 1 B44 in just the past year so.......
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Old 03-07-2010, 03:14 PM
  #11794  
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nope, i havent broken any rims. are you hitting a wall or something? our strait isnt too wide so when we go high on the straits we tend to knick the brick wall, and that doesnt break them.
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Old 03-07-2010, 07:08 PM
  #11795  
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Originally Posted by Tony Newland View Post
It sounds like your pretty close... I would probably try thicker oils (Losi feels lighter to me too when compared to the same weightof AE) I would also lower he car as much as possible. Wight balance F-R is getting to be more and more important iwth lipo BL etc. I run the alum front pivots in both m truck and buggy it make ethe steering slow down just alittle. And like I mentioned in my setp I run the rear hole on my ackerman plates... that takes some of the "bite" out on corner entry and smooth it out alot for me.

Also motor placement has alot to do with forward bite and steering, I run the smallest spur I can on both my rigs
Well I had a rough day in qualifying. I was a heat before the final heat so I had some traffic to deal with. My car felt ooth but didn't feel like I could push it hard. I took some of your suggestions and finished qualifying in 8th

they ran triple A mains so I was hopeful I could move up. The first main went as planned and I finished 4th. I improved 4 tenths from qualifying.

The 2nd & 3rd mains didn't go as well. My car cornered great but still couldn't be pushed very hard

finished 6th overall

front
35 wt
56 piston
0.090 liters
black spring
inside on tower, inside on arm
1-B link w/ 0.060 spacers
30 degree blocks, spindles middle
arms level
-2 camber
noe toe
1 ounce weight on servo

rear

35 wt with 2 limiters
56 piston
silver spring
1-B link w/ 0.060 washers
4th hole tower, out on arm
2 deg antisquat
hubs back
-1 camber
dogbones level




rear
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Old 03-07-2010, 07:15 PM
  #11796  
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Originally Posted by Bobby Z View Post
Well I had a rough day in qualifying. I was a heat before the final heat so I had some traffic to deal with. My car felt ooth but didn't feel like I could push it hard. I took some of your suggestions and finished qualifying in 8th

they ran triple A mains so I was hopeful I could move up. The first main went as planned and I finished 4th. I improved 4 tenths from qualifying.

The 2nd & 3rd mains didn't go as well. My car cornered great but still couldn't be pushed very hard

finished 6th overall

front
35 wt
56 piston
0.090 liters
black spring
inside on tower, inside on arm
1-B link w/ 0.060 spacers
30 degree blocks, spindles middle
arms level
-2 camber
noe toe
1 ounce weight on servo

rear

35 wt with 2 limiters
56 piston
silver spring
1-B link w/ 0.060 washers
4th hole tower, out on arm
2 deg antisquat
hubs back
-1 camber
dogbones level




rear
i run on carpet to, my setup is as follows and it is dialed.

front
brown
30wt
#2
middle hole top
outer on bottom
outer with one washer on the tower ballstud and outer on hub
2 bump steer washers

rear
grey(green for more steering)
30wt
#1
inside on top(not 4th hole)
out on bottom
inside with 2 washers on the tower and middle on hub

we use gold barcode all around but your minipins should work fine.
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Old 03-07-2010, 07:44 PM
  #11797  
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hey guys I'm getting out of 2wd buggy I'm looking to pass my car on to a new owner

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...5-shipped.html
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Old 03-07-2010, 08:01 PM
  #11798  
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Originally Posted by Hate2Looz View Post
Has anybody been having issues with AE buggy rear wheels lately? I've been through two sets in less than 4 races. They are just cracking and breaking wether it is out on the bead edge or through the center of the wheel itself. Never had this issue before and have owned 2 B4's and 1 B44 in just the past year so.......
One of our local fast guys pointed the same thing out to a couple of us last night. Told him to slow down His are cracking at the bead edge.
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:05 PM
  #11799  
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Originally Posted by Kings Kid View Post
HHmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm. didn't we try to tell you about this with our x-6's versus the b4?
See out door the truck is good any truck is good, because there is no grip. But when I'm racing in door and I need to be fast the lead slead can't cut it.
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:11 PM
  #11800  
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Originally Posted by oldandnew View Post
The ball studs only thread in so much they seem to sit up high. I was going to put some washers or maybe even a nut under them. If anybody else is using the Racers Edge ones do yours only thread in so far or did I get one the has shallow threads or something. Thanks
I had the same problem, I ended up putting a washer under it. I used the longer black ball and i'm glad I did when I snapped one. I was able unthread it from underneath since it ran through and i could get some pliers on it.
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Old 03-07-2010, 09:30 PM
  #11801  
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I have the RE hubs and I can thread a ball stud all the way down with no washers under it.
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Old 03-08-2010, 03:21 AM
  #11802  
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Originally Posted by not home View Post
nope, i havent broken any rims. are you hitting a wall or something? our strait isnt too wide so when we go high on the straits we tend to knick the brick wall, and that doesnt break them.
This is all happening with NO damage to the rest of the car so no, I'm not
hitting a wall.

Originally Posted by kc_nitro_rc View Post
One of our local fast guys pointed the same thing out to a couple of us last night. Told him to slow down His are cracking at the bead edge.
That's where mine start but if you look closely, inside the wheel, they are
cracking in there too.
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Old 03-08-2010, 04:33 AM
  #11803  
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Originally Posted by klaymon View Post
I have the RE hubs and I can thread a ball stud all the way down with no washers under it.
well, what ballstud are you using? ive got the ae long silver ballstuds everywhere on my car without a problem.
Originally Posted by Hate2Looz View Post
This is all happening with NO damage to the rest of the car so no, I'm not
hitting a wall.


That's where mine start but if you look closely, inside the wheel, they are
cracking in there too.
im not hitting, just tapping a wall parallel with the strait that can do some damage. big jumps?
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Old 03-08-2010, 04:47 AM
  #11804  
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I haven't heard of the newer wheels breaking, the old ones did frequently, especially the fronts. I had one front that was so cracked up the tire was holding it together.
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Old 03-08-2010, 06:41 AM
  #11805  
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Originally Posted by not home View Post
well, what ballstud are you using? ive got the ae long silver ballstuds everywhere on my car without a problem
I put the black ones back in the ones that came out of the FT T4(stock) rear hub carrier part #3858. They sit up 3/16" when bottomed out. I put them in the second hole in from the outside, it looked like this hole was the closest to one that the kit had used. Should I upgrade to a different ball stud? What have you guys who run RE carriers do? Thanks
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