Like Tree34Likes

RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 03-05-2010, 12:04 PM
  #11761  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (85)
 
Davidka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,792
Trader Rating: 85 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Now use 25W & Ae #2 ...
ft & back


I like , performs better than the losi set-up
Give #56/25wt a try, I think it's a little better but I suppose it's splitting hairs at that point.
Davidka is offline  
Old 03-05-2010, 12:14 PM
  #11762  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (53)
 
Tony Newland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 5,932
Trader Rating: 53 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tnault View Post
does anybody have a good t4 setup using losi shock pistons?
I just got my T4 together last week and ran wed night and TQ'd/won.

56F 35 Losi oil 3 limiters
middle on tower, outside on arm
link - inside on tower no washers inside on caster block
30' caster blocks
middle spindle height
1 bumpsteer washer
rear ackerman on steering plate

55R 30 Losi oil 2 limiters
middle on tower inside on arm
hubs back
std hubs
link - inside on bulkhead 1 washer
middle on hub

ride height 31mm f 30mm r

Trinity 5000 40c battery centered (have to cut one foam in half)

Tekin 13.5 geared 22/78
fastest lap 16.5
fastest mod buggy lap 16.2

Pink tapers F&R, trinity foam, zip grip just the rears

Losi pistons are alot more consistent on our track, both my B4 and T4 jump tons better and are faster back to back
Tony Newland is offline  
Old 03-05-2010, 12:26 PM
  #11763  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Bobby Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,132
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
The idea for using the Losi combination is to add pack and slow down the initial body roll . Makes for a smoother turn in the apex along with a tad more traction.
this is good news. Our latest track layout has alot of big jumps and my car was bottoming out a bit so the extra pack will help.

I was running 30 wt front and 35 wt rear so what oil would I run with 56 pistons instead of the #2 AE piston.

I'm racing on carpet track with jumps indoors so there are no bumps and slowing down the body roll may actually be a good thing on the high bite surface. My car was cornering very well last night but it was a bit nervous in some sections where the car has to jump, land and then jump again.
Bobby Z is offline  
Old 03-05-2010, 12:39 PM
  #11764  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (53)
 
Tony Newland's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 5,932
Trader Rating: 53 (100%+)
Default

Long links and laying the shocks down will make it easier to drive on high bite surfaces
Tony Newland is offline  
Old 03-05-2010, 12:56 PM
  #11765  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
 
kyle3333's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 460
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Boz View Post
Stop stressing over the o-ring..

Itís a $4 part. I read an article years ago where Cliff Lett said we should change them after ever race meeting.

I change them about once a month (just the o-rings) for a consistent feel/slide of the shock shaft.

Every shock is going to leak some oil. Itís called pressure. When you have a cylinder full of oil (no air) then push a shaft in, oil will leak out at the weakest point until the pressure equalizes (bleeding a shock). But when a shock is working on the car there are still pressures working inside the shock body. Visualize this, push the shock shaft up into the shock body, and now pull it out quickly. The oil is meant to travel throw the piston holes, if it canít do that fast enough then a bit of it will be pushed out past the o-rings (the next weakest point). Which you may describe a leaking, I may describe as normal.

As we donít know each other on the forum personally it is hard to know how we each preparing and maintain a car or fill shocks.

I have raced off road electric from í86-í95 then moved to 1/8th on-road í96-í99 (won the National in 2000). I brought myself a T4 for Christmas and enjoy racing it. No offence to all of our club members, but it is amazing how little knowledge is down there these days. The club has a very good turn out on Friday nights (50+ drivers) but their are lot memberís that donít know of me at all at the track and ask me what am I doing to the car, why are you changing this and that, is that an new again why is it so clean and so on. After racing the Mugen MRX for 14years you pickup on the finer details in setting up a car and I now use this knowledge on my T4. I have spoken to member that havenít changed or topped up the shocks oil in months and other drivers that donít even check ride height. Some drivers are racing for fun, but having a car setup correctly is even more fun. I have been given on advice and help to a new father and son team. Simple things like donít over tight your plastic nuts that hold the shocks on, what a slipper is for, correct tires choice and donít use your race tires on the road and some driving tips. Matthew has gone from 38sec, down to 32 sec lap times and now racing other drivers.

How do you know when the o-rings need to be replaced?
kyle3333 is offline  
Old 03-05-2010, 01:04 PM
  #11766  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
 
oldandnew's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 429
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by oldandnew View Post
Picked up my first lipos and made a blunder. The Lipos I got have the leads coming out the side. I was thinking I could remedy this by dremiling out the webbing in that section of the tray. I am thinking I am not the only one who has made this mistake. Do you think this will be ok or will it weaken the chassis to much? I will probably have to open up this area from front right of tray back about an inch because I have never used lipo in my Factory T4 and am not sure where I am going to have to place the batt. Thanks for any input.
Do you guys place the lipo packs in the same position or move them around? I don't want to make the hole any bigger than it has to be. Thanks
oldandnew is offline  
Old 03-05-2010, 02:27 PM
  #11767  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Enid,OK
Posts: 163
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

now i know that losi and associated shock oil are different but i cant remember the difference. does anybody know?
tnault is offline  
Old 03-05-2010, 03:48 PM
  #11768  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (85)
 
Davidka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,792
Trader Rating: 85 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by kyle3333 View Post
How do you know when the o-rings need to be replaced?
The oil starts coming out of the shocks.

Originally Posted by tnault View Post
now i know that losi and associated shock oil are different but i cant remember the difference. does anybody know?
Losi is heavier by weight, if you had 30wt AE oil in your shocks you'd use 27.5 Losi to stay close to the same.

There's a good charg on twf8.ws in the tech section. Scroll down on the page, the first comparison chart is backwards, lower on the page there are charts where someone measured each brand's oil with a rheostat (I think this is the tool) to get their true rating on a common scale.
Davidka is offline  
Old 03-05-2010, 04:13 PM
  #11769  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (74)
 
Robert Walker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 514
Trader Rating: 74 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tnault View Post
now i know that losi and associated shock oil are different but i cant remember the difference. does anybody know?
Here is a nice chart for many brands.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...onversion.html
Robert Walker is offline  
Old 03-05-2010, 08:09 PM
  #11770  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (85)
 
Davidka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,792
Trader Rating: 85 (100%+)
Default

That's the page I was refering to. The Gene Hickerson chart near the top is backwards but otherwise a good guideline.
Davidka is offline  
Old 03-05-2010, 11:48 PM
  #11771  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
aeRayls's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,257
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

I am rather certain that the ae/losi oil chart is correct. Loai is thinner by weight. If you start with ae 30 and you want 27.5 you use losi 30.
aeRayls is offline  
Old 03-06-2010, 06:24 AM
  #11772  
Tech Lord
iTrader: (85)
 
Davidka's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 10,792
Trader Rating: 85 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by aeRayls View Post
I am rather certain that the ae/losi oil chart is correct. Loai is thinner by weight. If you start with ae 30 and you want 27.5 you use losi 30.
I have found the opposite.
Davidka is offline  
Old 03-06-2010, 07:41 AM
  #11773  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (23)
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Upper Milwaukee
Posts: 2,731
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
The oil starts coming out of the shocks.



Losi is heavier by weight, if you had 30wt AE oil in your shocks you'd use 27.5 Losi to stay close to the same.

There's a good charg on twf8.ws in the tech section. Scroll down on the page, the first comparison chart is backwards, lower on the page there are charts where someone measured each brand's oil with a rheostat (I think this is the tool) to get their true rating on a common scale.
i agree with that
not home is offline  
Old 03-06-2010, 10:05 AM
  #11774  
Tech Legend
 
Wild Cherry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: TRCR Modified Driver
Posts: 22,595
Default

We are still arguing which oil is thicker @Trcr...


I say Losi is thinner.....

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 03-06-2010 at 12:12 PM.
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 03-06-2010, 12:11 PM
  #11775  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
Bobby Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,132
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Tony Newland View Post
Long links and laying the shocks down will make it easier to drive on high bite surfaces
Thanks

I'm running inside on tower in the rear with outside on the arm. I can go in one more on the tower to the 4th hole but it feels too lazy

on the front I'm on the inside on arm and either middle or inside on tower

for links I'm running standard 1-b link in rear with no washers

in front I just switched to 1-b from 1-a and love it. I also have 2 washers under ballstud

30 degree blocks with 3 bump steer washers and spindles middle

Arms are level front and rear bones level

I put the 56 pistons in last night with 30 wt oil front and back. The 25 wt felt too soft

I also have rear hubs spaced back for more steering

any suggestions?
Bobby Z is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2021 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.