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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 03-03-2010, 08:32 PM
  #11716  
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Originally Posted by birdie_in_texas View Post
the motor I got with one of my T4's says "Novak 4300" on it..

Any idea what turn this would be..?

Is this like a 10.5 maybe?
Yup, 10.5 it is. I would check the rotor and make sure its sintered as it is an older motor and the rotor makes a huge difference in performance.
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Old 03-03-2010, 08:43 PM
  #11717  
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uh...what is "sintered"..?
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:06 PM
  #11718  
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Originally Posted by birdie_in_texas View Post
uh...what is "sintered"..?
A sintered rotor has a much higher magnetic density than the old bonded rotors. Basically, pull out the rotor and if it isn't chrome/nickel plated looking then you would stand to benefit a heck of a lot with a new rotor.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:08 PM
  #11719  
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Sintered has stronger magnets thus more torque and stronger brakes. If i remember right the 4300SS was not sintered and just a bonded rotor.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:20 PM
  #11720  
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how do you get a new rotor?

this one is certainly not anything like "nickel plated"..
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Old 03-04-2010, 04:44 AM
  #11721  
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Originally Posted by birdie_in_texas View Post
how do you get a new rotor?

this one is certainly not anything like "nickel plated"..
Our local hobby shop should have one. Or go online to towerhobbies or amain hobbies and find it. Novak sintered rototr 12.5 I think.
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Old 03-04-2010, 06:44 AM
  #11722  
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If you have the 4300SS motor then you probably have the bonded rotor. It will be close to the same speed as the sintered rotors but you have to gear it a little lower, it will have less torque and more rpm. To change to the sintered rotor you need a rotor but also a new front endbell, the sintered rotors require a larger front bearing. Since you're not running in a stock or spec class with that motor just try it like is. It will probably be plenty if you have decent batteries.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:42 AM
  #11723  
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Ok..that sounds fine..

I ended up getting a used B4..it is not a FT, but is "mostly" FT..is a "bit" beat up, but as bad as I drive, it will probably get destroyed anyways, as the track is built for 1/8th scale buggies...

I believe it has an 81 tooth spur, as it needs new slipper pads for sure anyways, I think I will put the novak SS setup in that B4, as I am going to trade that T4 as a roller for a Slash so I can make me a "back slash"..
The novak SS setup is the "calmest" I have..everything else is all CC 4600's and 5700's, and as of last night, one of the "Tacon 36mm 3930KV" motors from hobbypartz..figured it was worth a try..here is the link to the motor I got..

http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m23-car-3650-3930.html

So in the B4, with my 30C 5000's, what would you fellas recommend for gearing..

the largest pinion I own is a 24T..but I have most every pinion from 12T-24T, minus just a few..as far as spurs, I have a couple of 84's and I believe a 78, but might be wrong..
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:50 AM
  #11724  
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Start with a 23 or 24. Assuming you're using a Super Sport speed control you should cut a vent in the body to allow air to pass over the heat sink(a vent in front and one on the back of the side pod works well), the old SS speedo's get hot a little easily. With a GTB I gear a 10.5 with sintered rotor at 25-26/78. Your battery will provide plenty of power.
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Old 03-04-2010, 08:01 AM
  #11725  
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thanks!

It did not come with a shell, so I was just going to buy one of the "already painted" ones from Tower, as I cannot paint to save my life..

I have a few little tiny fans from my r/c FE boating days that we used to afix to the esc's to help in cooling, so I can put one of them on this esc as well as make sure it has good cooling if the need arises..hopefully this will work out as a great power system for the little B4..the track is pretty dang big and has some really large jumps..
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Old 03-04-2010, 10:06 AM
  #11726  
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I run a 10.5 for mod on a smaller high traction track. Unless there's a long jump to clear with less than a 5 foot approach I never need more power. The key with BL motors 10.5 and more turns is to hear them tall enough (big enough pinion), they actually gain punch/torque the taller you go. You'll be surprised.
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Old 03-04-2010, 11:48 AM
  #11727  
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Any thoughts or experiences on the jconcepts "Hi-Flow" Illuzion Body vs. jconcepts Illuzion Body for the T4. On the fence about which one to get. Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-04-2010, 11:53 AM
  #11728  
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Originally Posted by storytyme View Post
Any thoughts or experiences on the jconcepts "Hi-Flow" Illuzion Body vs. jconcepts Illuzion Body for the T4. On the fence about which one to get. Thanks in advance.

If it matters, on the B4 I hate the Hi-flow and love the Illuzion body... I will look at the T4 version since I have a T4 and need a new body soon....
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Old 03-04-2010, 11:54 AM
  #11729  
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Originally Posted by storytyme View Post
Any thoughts or experiences on the jconcepts "Hi-Flow" Illuzion Body vs. jconcepts Illuzion Body for the T4. On the fence about which one to get. Thanks in advance.

Get the Illusion , the High Flow pushes ....
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Old 03-04-2010, 12:45 PM
  #11730  
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Default updated B4 rear tower

FYI there is a running change to the B4 rear shock tower and all future parts will have the 3 hole pattern shifted inwards. The "4th" inside hole that you previously had to drill is now included on this part, with the original outside hole removed. New part pictured on the website:

http://order.aeteam.net/product_deta...?Itemcode=9572
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