Davidka

iTrader: (86)

Yes, by moving the ball studs you can change the length of the link. It does matter which end of the link you move depending on what you want to achieve. Losi and Assoicated's manuals both address this in their tuning sections but the Associated copy above is backwards from what I've experienced.

Tony, you'd feel very different about speed controls if you weren't sponsored by the current monopoly holder. A decent speed control does not cost $200, it costs ~$100 (Novak Havoc), the fact that a stock class racer cannot be competitive without the $200 speed control is a huge step backwards. If you're winning modified with a 13.5 then the difference between stock and modified has been erased.

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

Gotcha, but I think you missed my whole point to how we used to race stock with brushed motors.... and the work and costs involved back in the day surpass a speedo upgrade today

Davidka

iTrader: (86)

I agree, it was a miracle that anyone chose to run stock then (I didn't). It's better now, cost of entry and racing is lower with lipo/bl for sure.

I still believe that stock needs to change. It's always been expressed by a number of turns/timing limit on the motor when we had brushes. Now that we have timing technology in the speed control (we knew it was coming) the motor turns don't mean anything. The truth under it all is that stock racing is an expectation of a limit to power and speed.

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

I agree... 17.5 is pretty close to stock years ago, but something like a 19.5 might be more accurate

13.5 feels like a 12x3 in my car.... a 10.5 feels like a 10x2, I call those motors soft mod and a 8.5-6.5 a real mod or real undriveable on dirt lol

Stock used to be 3-4 laps off the pace of mod back in the day... its much less now because stock classes can use the additional power they've realized in batts and speedos.... mod not so much, we were limited by traction back then and are still today. There's only so much grip available in the buggy tire size, so mod will not go any faster with battery, speedo and motor tech. only stock and super stock classes. It wont be long til all the manufacturers us the same diversity/programming that Tekin has..... its the only way they will remain competitive

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

well the standard speedos usually still win regardless and many folks with all that prgm'g still find their way back to somethin very akin to what they had with a 'fixed' type speedo. again unlike onroad, traction (or lack thereof) owns all. u can show up to cactus, motorama, clash etc with standard speedo but if u went to champs, vegas or snowbirds u'd be a fool to do so. different world.

R

not home

iTrader: (23)

its fine to see fast 17.5's and 13.5's. its all driver and setup. a nicely driver 13.5 could keep up to a mod car, minus some of the larger jumps and the straits. personally, who cares? you gotta pay to play as some say, which is true because a havoc vs a tekin or lrp is gunna get killed, but driver could come into play too...

ShaunMac

Interesting to see the speedo discussions migrating into the off-road forums. It has all but consumed the on-road world for quite some time now.

Once the Cactus is run we'll have a really good grasp on how much the speedos are speeding up the Stock & SS classes compared to Mod. Probably going to be some 13.5 runs that are damn close to making the Mod show.

We'll see....

TRXRACER99

iTrader: (10)

I am having problems with my t4s transmission. every time i hit the throttle a whining noise comes from the transmission. it is not the sper gear. maybe the slipper pads? I usually run on road and just bought a used t4 so any info would be nice Thanks
Aric

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

13.5 will probably be a couple laps off down there, that track is big enough it will make a pretty good difference... here our laps are around 16-19 seconds depending on the layout so there isnt much straight away speed and all the jumps are makable

Ed237

iTrader: (11)

Its difficult to say what results mean at big races. If Tebo wins Mod with 15 laps in 7:15 and the guy who won stock went 14 laps 7:05 what does it really mean? It still doesnt answer the question how many laps Tebo would have if he ran a 13.5.

I find it more interesting that a lot of the Tekin Team set-ups recommend 10.5 motors for off-road. There is simply NOT a significant difference between a 10.5 or a 13.5 motor to the average club racer to justify a stock 13.5 class.

I'm not sure how to fix stock or even if it can be fixed. Maybe its time that electric races be sorted like they do in 1/8 scale where racers decide to run intermediate or expert.

Wild Cherry

Even with timing boost and what ever else they can come up with ?

I'll bet the pro's will be laps ahead of the stock winners final times...

CraigV

iTrader: (1)

Stock should be 17.5, with LOCKED TIMING. That includes both motor and ESC. Simple as that.

Of course, that's just my opinion.

UltegraSTI

iTrader: (20)

have you ever seen the gear ratios and clearance issues that are present with a 17.5 buggy? especially before all this boost stuff was even in experiment? thats why most folks and even MEOW initially had 13.5 as stock. most people still do not accept 17.5 as stock (major races (crcrc, motorama) and tracks (LIR and CRCRC)) and there are good reasons for it.

end the damn bullocks over speedos and timing on motors. 90% of tracks in the US do not have a full heat of 2w 'not mod, not novice/kids' buggies on track 3wks in a row. its mod b/c folks want to go fast, there's no rules BS, and its still the real test that 1/10 buggy has always been. want a level playing field (or at least in ur own mind)? come run mod buggy or just go run 1/8 nitro.

R

storytyme

iTrader: (20)

I am in the process of rebuilding and upgrading my T4. I put on the RPM front arms (which were on there before) and I had a question. I will try and describe this the best I can. The arms are only attached to the front bulkhead. No shocks or turnbuckles are attached or wheels or tires. Picture the T4 sitting flat on the workbench with the arms straight out. If I pick up the T4 off the workbench and keep the chassis parallel to the ground should the front arms stay straight out? I would think that they should flop and hang down like a well oiled hinge. They stay straight out and since I am in no hurry to complete this project I wanted to make sure everything is working at its optimal level. Do I need to change anything to make them looser? Or are they how they should be. Sorry if my description was confusing and thank you in advance for any thoughts, ideas or suggestions.

DavidR

iTrader: (97)

+1 for getting rid of stock and mod designations and start basing the classes on driver skill level.

This has always been the best part of Nitro 8th scale...

No fighting and fussing over who is running and illegal motor or whatever.

Run what ya brung... But do it in the appropriate skill level class.

Just my .02...

-David