RC10B4/T4 Forum

I just don't understand how it's legal in stock racing. The difference the Hotwire tweaks make is night and day. You can make a 17.5 feel like a 8.5. My 10.5 was too much after I ran the recommended setup and had to turn the timing down a good bit.

^^ This is why stock racing is always on the verge of disappearing. Something happens to make it popular again (lipo, brushless=evenly matched cars), the manufacturers find a way to sell people an advantage. Those who want it pay, those who don't change to modified or leave all together. What sucks about it is when stock is in the skids, there's no entry level class for new racers to come in with.
Stock should be a Novak Havoc 17.5 system and a 20c 2cell lipo battery.
Stock should be a Novak Havoc 17.5 system and a 20c 2cell lipo battery.

Thank Tekin !!
Mod is now the true spec class...

Mod is now the true spec class...

Switching to Lipo on a T4. Do you guys think their is a need for the Racers Edge .5 rear hub carriers or is this a buggy only change. Thanks
Tech Addict
iTrader: (1)

^^ This is why stock racing is always on the verge of disappearing. Something happens to make it popular again (lipo, brushless=evenly matched cars), the manufacturers find a way to sell people an advantage. Those who want it pay, those who don't change to modified or leave all together. What sucks about it is when stock is in the skids, there's no entry level class for new racers to come in with.
Stock should be a Novak Havoc 17.5 system and a 20c 2cell lipo battery.
Stock should be a Novak Havoc 17.5 system and a 20c 2cell lipo battery.
I run a Stock Sc10 with a Xl5 speedo & the HPI motor and it pretty fast,but when I go up against a Tekin with a 17.5 they will always pull me the straights(if its long enough) with that boost timing thing going on. BUt if the track is tight & technical with a limited straight where the boost doesnt have enough time to kick in,its a level playing field


You still have to be able to drive the car effectively regardless of what power plant you have. I don't see the "Tekin advantage" as being any different than having the cash to pony up for a B4 over a toy-grade R/C for racing.
Tech Addict
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Agreed. I just ordered a Tekin RS combo for my ride. On 80% of the track it will make no difference since our track is very technical and "slow", but if I can gain a few tenths on the one straight away we have, I can finally break the 15 lap barrier and maybe make an A-main once in a while.
You still have to be able to drive the car effectively regardless of what power plant you have. I don't see the "Tekin advantage" as being any different than having the cash to pony up for a B4 over a toy-grade R/C for racing.
You still have to be able to drive the car effectively regardless of what power plant you have. I don't see the "Tekin advantage" as being any different than having the cash to pony up for a B4 over a toy-grade R/C for racing.
I dont blame racers out there for buying the latest & greatest electronics to try and be fast. I just hope that I can bring my A game when they show up with it...lol
Its the ones that run out and buy a 8.5 & slam into the pack,over shoot the turn & get all crazy cause they havent learned throttle control yet.

They call them THY's at my local track "Throttle Happy Yahoo's". So I am guessing friom the lack of response that the .5 rear hubs for the T4 (Lipo set up) are not popular I could have sworn I read a bunch about it on hear a month ago or so. Just can't find anything on hear once it get's about two weeks out.


The .5* hubs on truck really just depends. Cav runs them even in high bite situations on the truck. If your running on a hard packed slick track, for sure give them a try.
Tech Master
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Is there a set-up out there with the .5 degree hubs for the T4? Has anybody tried putting the 4th hole on the rear shock tower for the T4? Sorry if this has already been brought up.

I have used the 4th hole with the .5 degree hubs and it works well I think. I have a template in a sticker form that you can use if you're interested. I tested it out on both my T4 and B4 last week and it took less than 10 minutes to do both towers while they were still on the vehicles. As far as setup, it works very well.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)

I have used the 4th hole with the .5 degree hubs and it works well I think. I have a template in a sticker form that you can use if you're interested. I tested it out on both my T4 and B4 last week and it took less than 10 minutes to do both towers while they were still on the vehicles. As far as setup, it works very well.
Id love help with this... LOL
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (97)

Hey Folks...
Got another quick (Kinda Stupid) Setup Question for you guys...
What effect does the rear camber rod position have on the car?
Both at the tower and at the hub?
I changed to the inside hole on the rear hubs of my B44 this weekend and it made a drastic improvement in the way the car drove for me... So I'm considering trying the same on my B4.
I just want to know what to look for in a change by doing this? A little help explaining what it actually affects would be great!
Thanks!
-David
Got another quick (Kinda Stupid) Setup Question for you guys...
What effect does the rear camber rod position have on the car?
Both at the tower and at the hub?
I changed to the inside hole on the rear hubs of my B44 this weekend and it made a drastic improvement in the way the car drove for me... So I'm considering trying the same on my B4.
I just want to know what to look for in a change by doing this? A little help explaining what it actually affects would be great!
Thanks!
-David