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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 02-07-2010, 08:51 AM
  #11356  
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Originally Posted by not home View Post
I know what I'm talking about when I say that all factory team kits, the b4 And t4 have plastic chassis's. Even a ae team driver here said so. Just look at the color of it
Im just saying thats whats on their site under the FTB4 kit description. i have heard that some of the newer kits are coming with plastic chassis' but i have always got the plastic chassis as well when i get a new kit just to be sure, they are very similar in color though.
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Old 02-07-2010, 09:28 AM
  #11357  
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they are plastic, and always have been since the worlds when neil cragg won i believe, and that was a long time ago. its plastic. the difference between the two are the carbon is a light color gray, the plastic is darker, blackish.
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:08 AM
  #11358  
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So are the AE forums dead now? Haven't been able to bring the website up for the last couple weeks.

On another note.. Does anybody know what the motor limit is on the new brushless rtr T4's?

Thanks guys
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:11 AM
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does anyone have a proven mod set-up for a mod t4 at wcrc?
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:27 AM
  #11360  
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Originally Posted by Matt Trimmings View Post
From AE's website:

The B4 Factory Team features all molded carbon components including the chassis, front and rear shock towers, front and rear A-Arms, chassis brace, and top plate
An oversight on AE's web content. FT kits have had plastic since the kit's box graphic got the black background, several years now.
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:33 AM
  #11361  
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Originally Posted by nailed322 View Post
I'm still new to RC but have raced a Slash for the past year.

I just bought a FTB4 a week ago and race at a med-high traction smooth indoor clay track. I have the B4 set to the stock FT settings. My problem is that it seems to push in every corner, high speed sweeper to 180's.

It might just be driver error but would someone please tell me how to get more out of the steering.

The only thing different from the FT settings is I have green springs in the rear and shock oil weights are F-35, R-30.
I run on a high traction indoor clay track as well. All the turns are really sharp on the track I race. I softened up my suspension a lot and it seemed to work well with my driving style. I'm running brown springs with 27 1/2 wt in the front and black springs with 25 wt in the rear. Seems to work good for me.
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Old 02-07-2010, 12:34 PM
  #11362  
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After about 6 years (wait..my kid is 8, and I gave it up before she was born..so more like 9 years..)I am coming back to r/c off road. I have managed to get a B4 and a T4 and am trying to figure out gearing. I have not been to the "local" track to see it, so I have no idea, but a buddy has built a heckuva track at his house, but I don't know how to describe i other than to say he built it for his MBX5 e-conversion buggy. It is to the point to where there are 3-4 guys there a LOT running T4's, JB4's, and 1/8th scale buggies and Slashes...

The T4 I got came with a novak "super sport" brushless setup from a Losi buggy. Just got it "together" but running it in the street, it seems VERY slow...

I have a castle mamba max with a 4600kv motor to put in either the T4 or the B4..whichever you guys think best...but of course, I have no idea where to start as far as pinions, gearing etc..

I have all 2S 30C 5000's, if that matters at all..

So fellas..what info do I need to get to post here to get the proper info...

Thanks for your help in advance!

Birdie
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Old 02-07-2010, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by nailed322
I'm still new to RC but have raced a Slash for the past year.

I just bought a FTB4 a week ago and race at a med-high traction smooth indoor clay track. I have the B4 set to the stock FT settings. My problem is that it seems to push in every corner, high speed sweeper to 180's.

It might just be driver error but would someone please tell me how to get more out of the steering.

The only thing different from the FT settings is I have green springs in the rear and shock oil weights are F-35, R-30.
I run on a high traction indoor clay track as well. All the turns are really sharp on the track I race. I softened up my suspension a lot and it seemed to work well with my driving style. I'm running brown springs with 27 1/2 wt in the front and black springs with 25 wt in the rear. Seems to work good for me.

After asking around last night I changed my tiires to Losi pink taper front and HB pink gigabite rear. I have the FTB4 standard setup on it right now with only a couple changes.

Springs F- brown
Springs R- green
Oil F- 35
Oil R- 30
Long wheelbase

After putting those tires on this thing really hooks up. But more important, no more understeer.

Last edited by nailed322; 02-07-2010 at 03:43 PM. Reason: mess up
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Old 02-07-2010, 03:58 PM
  #11364  
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Might be worth your time to try a 30/25 oil weight setup. Cost you like $3 in oil and some time, but with those springs, you may be happier.
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Old 02-07-2010, 04:08 PM
  #11365  
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Might be worth your time to try a 30/25 oil weight setup. Cost you like $3 in oil and some time, but with those springs, you may be happier.
I'll try it this week and see if it's better.
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:34 AM
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What is the thinking with the Racers Edge .5* Rear hub carrier's (T4)? Is this for only the Newer "light setup" or does it benifit those still using NiM? Or should you just go with the 0* Hubs for the NiM? Thanks
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:10 AM
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Whats the J Concepts tire equivalent to the proline Bow Tie and The Holeshot for the T4? And For the Short course truck too.

Jake
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:24 AM
  #11368  
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Originally Posted by Bubonic-X View Post
Whats the J Concepts tire equivalent to the proline Bow Tie and The Holeshot for the T4? And For the Short course truck too.

Jake
Double Dee's are an equivalent to the holeshot. the only short course tire that JConcepts makes is the Goosebump, they are one of the best tires for racing in the SC class.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by oldandnew View Post
What is the thinking with the Racers Edge .5* Rear hub carrier's (T4)? Is this for only the Newer "light setup" or does it benifit those still using NiM? Or should you just go with the 0* Hubs for the NiM? Thanks


Lighter car = less side bite

The .5 hub is used to improve the side bite on the lite set-ups ....

The heavier NiM set-up usually has very good side bite so using .5 rear hubs is not necessary...
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Old 02-08-2010, 11:09 AM
  #11370  
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Really stupid question, but these toe in hubs.. are they measured per side (so a 2 degree hub will have 2 degrees toe in per side, 4 degrees total) or is it the sum of both sides?
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