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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 01-15-2010, 08:00 PM
  #10966  
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The two different chassis materials from my experience are best suited to different conditions. I mostly ran the plastic material, since it is less conductive for less interference(Back with Crystals and battery bars, lol) and because is seemed to "settle" the car down.
But, on smooth tracks with good traction, the FT chassis seems to help lap times a little. Unless of course you crash, then it's advantage is null and void, .

Keep in mind that some minor shock tuning will be needed from one to the other. I usually went a little softer on the rear spring with the stiffer material.


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Old 01-15-2010, 08:34 PM
  #10967  
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So what you're saying Jim is that on a slicker or looser track, the plastic is better, right?
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Old 01-15-2010, 09:49 PM
  #10968  
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Yeah, making the car a little lazier/softer, so you can stay ahead of it will help on loose as well as rough tracks.




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Old 01-15-2010, 11:31 PM
  #10969  
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ill agree to that. my truck does get real loose easily with that carbon chassis. the plastic does make it a lazier and calmer vehicle.
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Old 01-17-2010, 08:46 AM
  #10970  
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So I built some new rear shocks but it seems I have a pair of the "bad bodies". The internal clip won't stay seated. Anyone know what the process for getting replacements from AE is?
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Old 01-17-2010, 12:21 PM
  #10971  
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Before you get too carried away, have you checked the clip is the right way around? There is a slightly rounded edge and a more square edge. Make sure the squareer edge is facing up.

Also, have you tried sanding the plaster tube spacer a small amount? Sometimes it relieves a bit of pressure to allow everything to sit better.
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Old 01-17-2010, 12:55 PM
  #10972  
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I have experience with Associated shocks going back to the first RC10's. I know how they're supposed to assemble, I know these bodies are not right. This problem is public knowlege, others have had their bodies replaced, I just wanted to hear how they got it done.

Last edited by Davidka; 01-17-2010 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 01-17-2010, 01:06 PM
  #10973  
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Contact Don at AE
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Old 01-17-2010, 04:21 PM
  #10974  
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Check out my freshly built ft b4! I'm so excited.
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4/T4 Forum-b4.jpg   RC10B4/T4 Forum-b4-2.jpg  
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Old 01-17-2010, 07:26 PM
  #10975  
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
I have experience with Associated shocks going back to the first RC10's. I know how they're supposed to assemble, I know these bodies are not right. This problem is public knowlege, others have had their bodies replaced, I just wanted to hear how they got it done.
I am shure you have a bad set.The ones i have the clips almost fall out.Hope you know who to contact at ae,cause when i called they acted as if i was the only one with the problem.They never heard of a problem with there shocks lol.
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Old 01-18-2010, 07:14 AM
  #10976  
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Originally Posted by Davidka View Post
So I built some new rear shocks but it seems I have a pair of the "bad bodies". The internal clip won't stay seated. Anyone know what the process for getting replacements from AE is?
That happened to me, last year when I bought new cars to goto CRCRC. I talked to Don/Brent at AE and they got it fixed by sending me new threaded shock bodies for my T4 and B4.
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Old 01-18-2010, 09:51 AM
  #10977  
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Is there anything special I need to do to use the racers edge hubs? I installed them and the wheels bind when I tighten the nuts...
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:16 AM
  #10978  
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any update on the new plastic?

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Old 01-18-2010, 10:16 AM
  #10979  
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Originally Posted by 5p3ktrum View Post
Is there anything special I need to do to use the racers edge hubs? I installed them and the wheels bind when I tighten the nuts...
Sounds like you forgot the crush tubes that go on the axle, between the bearings.
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Old 01-18-2010, 10:28 AM
  #10980  
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I had this problem with the racers edge hub, the crush tube is not long enough, add one thin black shim from the tc3 shim kit to each side of the crush tube and it should not bind anymore
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