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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 12-21-2009, 07:06 PM
  #10651  
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I added weight to get mine to ROAR minimum and it helped the handling quite a bit. I'm sitting right at 1524 grams. I actually cut two weight "slabs" and put them under the battery in the tray (I have a slightly undersize battery right now). One sits at the very back and one at the very front. By moving those back and forth in the tray I can get different handling characteristics. If I need more steering, I move the back one up a little bit. If I need more rear traction, I move the front one back.
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Old 12-21-2009, 09:25 PM
  #10652  
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Default Tuned flex chassis?

Has anyone tried removing the sides of battery box and the vertical sides of the sidepods?

I saw a racer with this mod and He said it was for more flex from the plastic chassis. Removed allmost all of the battery box and most of the sidepod sides!
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Old 12-21-2009, 10:21 PM
  #10653  
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i found that 1530 is good 1600 i had to stiffen my car up oil wise to much
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Old 12-21-2009, 10:22 PM
  #10654  
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i was just going to ask that same thing, I am thinking of removing the sides of the battery box to make my Lipos fit
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Old 12-23-2009, 12:10 AM
  #10655  
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Default Mounting servo horn

Does anyone knows why the instruction manual says to mount the servo horn 1 degree off center ? Thx Serge
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Old 12-23-2009, 01:20 AM
  #10656  
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Default off-set servo horn

Must do in order to have equal left & right steering ...
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Old 12-23-2009, 01:53 AM
  #10657  
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This topic is such a mess so I can't find if this has been discussed before.

Anyways, have you guys listed which parts do I need to be able fit gear diff to my B4 FT?

The list that I found comparing SC10's and B4 FT's manuals:

Diffcase (parts #):
B4: 9574
SC10: 9826

T-plate:
B4: 9570
SC10: 9818

Diff outdrive bearings:
B4: 6903
SC10: 9832

And of course the gear diff: 9827.

Do I need all of these SC10 parts or is there anything else?
Have you tried the gear diff in your B4's and what kind of results have u had with it?
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Old 12-23-2009, 06:21 AM
  #10658  
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Originally Posted by AiR2k View Post
This topic is such a mess so I can't find if this has been discussed before.

Anyways, have you guys listed which parts do I need to be able fit gear diff to my B4 FT?

The list that I found comparing SC10's and B4 FT's manuals:

Diffcase (parts #):
B4: 9574
SC10: 9826

T-plate:
B4: 9570
SC10: 9818

Diff outdrive bearings:
B4: 6903
SC10: 9832

And of course the gear diff: 9827.

Do I need all of these SC10 parts or is there anything else?
Have you tried the gear diff in your B4's and what kind of results have u had with it?
You've got it right. Just the diff case, t-plate, diff bearings, and actual diff is needed. Everything else falls right in.

Can't speak for a b4, but most serious guys are putting the ball diff into the sc10 because it works better. Most discussion on the matter usually ends with "the ball diff has a slight advantage for performance while a gear diff just lasts".
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Old 12-23-2009, 10:33 AM
  #10659  
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shock build question

what does it mean to have "-2" limiters in the front shocks.

ive seen this on a few pro setup sheets, but i dont know how to build it.

im assuming the +1 limiter in the rear means I just put a thin shock piston from the rebuild unerneath the shock piston
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Old 12-23-2009, 10:37 AM
  #10660  
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Originally Posted by wstuart View Post
shock build question

what does it mean to have "-2" limiters in the front shocks.

ive seen this on a few pro setup sheets, but i dont know how to build it.

im assuming the +1 limiter in the rear means I just put a thin shock piston from the rebuild unerneath the shock piston
adding a +1 limiter is putting one limiter under your shock piston, a negative limiter is unscrewing your shock bottom one thread and on.
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Old 12-23-2009, 01:06 PM
  #10661  
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hey wild cherry,

did you ask browny about what pistons he runs in his B44.

thanks
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Old 12-23-2009, 01:19 PM
  #10662  
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Originally Posted by wstuart View Post
shock build question

what does it mean to have "-2" limiters in the front shocks.

ive seen this on a few pro setup sheets, but i dont know how to build it.

im assuming the +1 limiter in the rear means I just put a thin shock piston from the rebuild unerneath the shock piston
-2 means unscrew the shock end 2 turns from fully threaded on. This is to increase the shock length when using the front shock on the outer hole on the front arm. The +1 limiters are .030" nylon washers, not necessarily the same as the bushing pieces in the shock rebuild kits (never measured them myself).
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Old 12-23-2009, 01:22 PM
  #10663  
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Default Scott Brown's B-44 shock set-up

Ft 35W
#2 piston , one .030 limiter

Rear 30W
#1 piston, one .030 limiter
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Old 12-23-2009, 06:57 PM
  #10664  
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Can anyone confirm what chassis comes in the FT T4 and B4 kits? I know in the past that they were obviously graphite= BUT- i have heard that the newer kits have been coming with the preferred plastic chassis.

I opened a kit today and the chassis looks identical to the plastic one my friend bought off the wall today.

anyone know the weight of a plastic chassis? Graphite?

thanks in advance
KB
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Old 12-23-2009, 07:04 PM
  #10665  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Ft 35W
#2 piston , one .030 limiter

Rear 30W
#1 piston, one .030 limiter
thats the same thing i run in my b44 and it works great for me.

also on the chassis question. yes the new kits should have the plastic chassis in them.
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