RC10B4/T4 Forum
#91
Tech Adept

Originally posted by Team Duratrax
Awww dont they look nice together,like father and son
Awww dont they look nice together,like father and son

#93
Tech Adept

Dean's plugs are the only way to go.

#95
Tech Initiate

why are you curling your servo wires rather than just shortening? planning on using it somewhere else?
#98

Well,
Just thought that I would introduce myself in this thread. My name is Jack, and I race stadium trucks and touring cars. I just started racing my T4, and its been going real well.
In response to the statement about the graphite chassis being too stiff and twitchy....I definately agree with that. It seems to jump a little weird. I can't explain it exactly, but I am trying to mess around with shock oils and what not to correct it. I got third place at socal last time I raced, maybe it could have been first if I didn't have a twitchy truck problem.
Anyhow here is a picture of my truck,
Just thought that I would introduce myself in this thread. My name is Jack, and I race stadium trucks and touring cars. I just started racing my T4, and its been going real well.
In response to the statement about the graphite chassis being too stiff and twitchy....I definately agree with that. It seems to jump a little weird. I can't explain it exactly, but I am trying to mess around with shock oils and what not to correct it. I got third place at socal last time I raced, maybe it could have been first if I didn't have a twitchy truck problem.
Anyhow here is a picture of my truck,
#99

And another....
#100

whoops here you go
#101

Just a side note....I don't race with those tires obviously.
I am running a ko servo. lrp qc2, orion core stock, full graphite, pretty much factory team truck, with fukuyama batteries.
I am running a ko servo. lrp qc2, orion core stock, full graphite, pretty much factory team truck, with fukuyama batteries.

#103

The qc2 is an excellent speedo. It is real light and super blue! However, I fried it because of some stupid wiring mistake late one night.
Its working now....LRP customer service hooked me up with a new one no questions asked.
I am not sure if the reactive frequency software is good for offroad because sometimes it feels like I am getting more power at the wrong times or conversely, less power when I need it.
All in all, great purchase. My only other gripe about it is the blue case is beautiful but it chips and flakes so easily. You need to really baby the thing.
Here is a pic of it, on my xray m18.
Its working now....LRP customer service hooked me up with a new one no questions asked.
I am not sure if the reactive frequency software is good for offroad because sometimes it feels like I am getting more power at the wrong times or conversely, less power when I need it.
All in all, great purchase. My only other gripe about it is the blue case is beautiful but it chips and flakes so easily. You need to really baby the thing.
Here is a pic of it, on my xray m18.
#105

I hear you there....once you fry an ESC, you never forget the smell. In retrospect, it is kind of useful to make that mistake because then you can easily recognize a future problem by the smell of burnt wires.
My quantum totally freaked out during my first race. The speed control was mysteriously stuck on full throttle. I watched in horror as the truck hit the wall at full blast. Luckily, nothing broke, but there was an orange, brownish goop leaking out of the ESC. Fried....I think so.
Luckily, when I took it over to AE, they were able to fix it free of charge. Since then, I have been extremely careful with these expensive speedos.
My quantum totally freaked out during my first race. The speed control was mysteriously stuck on full throttle. I watched in horror as the truck hit the wall at full blast. Luckily, nothing broke, but there was an orange, brownish goop leaking out of the ESC. Fried....I think so.
Luckily, when I took it over to AE, they were able to fix it free of charge. Since then, I have been extremely careful with these expensive speedos.