rcmark24

iTrader: (14)

I hate to count how many AE shocks I've built and 99% have been perfect. I did get a T4 kit last year that had two bad shocks. Finally figured out they were egg shaped and the clip would not stay in. This could be the problem and I'm sure AE will be happy to fix it.

Ae*Driver*70

If you make sure you clean all the flashing and use plenty of green slime and hear the snap you should be money on these shocks.I hated these shocks but after figuring them out they are Golden when done right.

Ask your self ,Why would a company go through the trouble of setting up a whole new machine to redo the most winning shock in 1/10 History.

Although I would love to see AE make big Bore shocks on the B5!

rcman1993

iTrader: (33)

why would you need a big bore shock on a 1/10 buggy. they are too light and it would look a little stupid. i have never blown a shock due to a big jump, even 20 ft gaps to flat ground.

RCmayor

iTrader: (9)

I am curious if some of the problems with shocks stems from how much thinner the shock body wall is due to the machining for the threads. I have always liked the non threaded shocks with clips. I would think the thicker aluminum would be better in not distorting as easy and handle heat better.

Ae*Driver*70

Was I asking you .lol

No seriously "AE" shocks are golden build properly!

Q_man

Thanks for the reply, I was thinking it might give a bit more drive and consistency. Do you use the ball diff to tune the car or just set it as per the manual?
Thanks again.

x60Driver

iTrader: (4)

Then why does 8 scales have have gear diffs. Same with the SC10?

Zach Phillips

iTrader: (16)

Power Delivery. The plastic gears would strip off, less power, diff would slip because 1/8 uses a clutch instead of a slipper clutch and maintenance would be a pain w/enlarged diff balls and parts it would also be to expensive

not home

iTrader: (23)

as said many pages back, about sanding the plastic internals down, it really works. i used to put in 4 runs and leak from a brand new rebuild kit. new rebuild it, sanded the plastic pieces down and tada, havent leaked yet. well, too much.

will g

iTrader: (132)

i have been having problems with the ft shocks for the t4 i have been running but mostly with the rears will the bladders keep it from hydrolocking and keep it from blowing oil out i imagine the shock caps will fit fine on the shock bushings no rub on anything else...also does anyone know what size the shock shafts are ( diameter ) mine are 3.00 to 3.05 is that right or too little .... just looked at the seals and one of the bottom plastic seals has tons of dirt on it what does that mean seals worn or ??? thnx Will G

not home

iTrader: (23)

sounds like somebody needs a rebuild. i have no dirt in mine yet. after running alot in two days, im happy so far.

will g

iTrader: (132)

i rebuild then 5 runs before that with new pistons and seals

DG Designs

iTrader: (14)

Havent been on here since i got my K truck. I was really hoping they would redesign the shocks since they are shared with the sc10. Very disappointing.I do still have the T4 although my cousin will be running it if they ever release the bleeder caps. What cracks me up though is how there is always someone defending the shocks. Seems like if they were not a challenge there would not be someone new complaining about them every 20 posts!

not home

iTrader: (23)

some know how to build them, and some dont. some have tricks and some dont. some have been working with these shocks for a long time and some havent. experience with the shocks will make them good. i guess its just maintenance everyone sees when running the shocks that isnt out of the usual. sure, they have been winning for a very long time, while they are still holding up. mine are successful right now, ill see at the end of this week with a big weekend of racing how well they really do hold up, with two days into them already.

Wild Cherry

differences between the two driving a 1/10 rc



*No "tuning" a ball diff if adjusted correctly, but they do need adjustment...

*Gears diff's never need adjusting, but they do need to be tuned using different oil weight....

So why use a gear diff ?

Because they are simple and never need adjusting , they also will wear forever..
This make then idea for drivers who are bashing curbs and ripping up the local baseball diamond...

Ball diff are more sophisticated and need more adjustments and maintenance for good proper performance .
Not so good for someone who has limited mechanical ability's, but their performance is best for racing....



ball diff = more side traction & forward bite especially on bumps
ball diff = even power to both wheels

gear diff = most power going to left wheel