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Old 09-29-2009, 11:29 AM
  #9706  
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JDead


Try adjusting the slipper and build the diff exactly as the instructions say .

When you rebuild the diff, take care to clean off all the old grease from the gear & outdrives....

The nut for the slipper should not have to show more than 4 to 6 threads above it...
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
JDead


Try adjusting the slipper and build the diff exactly as the instructions say .

When you rebuild the diff, take care to clean off all the old grease from the gear & outdrives....

The nut for the slipper should not have to show more than 4 to 6 threads above it...
+1 and also sand the diff rings with some 360 in a circular motion.
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:21 PM
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I recently switched over to brushless and I am using a Novak Havoc ESC. The ESC rubs the bottom of the body and I am using the stock body. I was wondering if anyone knew of a body that allowed for a little more space for the ESC. Thanks for any possible help or suggestions!
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:34 PM
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The proline body is tall
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony Newland View Post
The proline body is tall
Which proline body? Crowd pleazer or vortex?
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Tony Newland View Post
The proline body is tall
Yes. The proline Vortex body has some extra room in that area.
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:53 PM
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The Vortex is the tallest out of the two with the side scoops....
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:56 PM
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Cool I was looking at that one already but it was hard to make the call just looking at pics online. Thanks for the info!
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Old 09-29-2009, 11:51 PM
  #9714  
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Does anyone have a tip on setting up a diff for brushless power. I keep on melting my diffs when I set them up according to AE but if I tighten it all the way I end up stripping the idler and diff gear.
I'm not an expert on the subject, but I suspect you have the diff in the wrong way. By that I mean the diff adjustment screw on the right not the left, it sounds like it is tightening itself.
I could be wrong, and I have been known to be wrong before, but something to check.
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by dirtdustingdavo View Post
I'm not an expert on the subject, but I suspect you have the diff in the wrong way. By that I mean the diff adjustment screw on the right not the left, it sounds like it is tightening itself.
I could be wrong, and I have been known to be wrong before, but something to check.
OK I may have had it wrong then. But just to confirm the adjustment screw should be on the left side (drivers side) looking from the rear of the car?

Thanks

P.S. thanks for the help everyone
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Old 09-30-2009, 05:38 AM
  #9716  
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No, the diff adjusting screw goes on the right/passenger/pinion gear side of the tranny
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:11 AM
  #9717  
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A bad thrust bearing can cause the diff nut to loosen or tighten.
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Old 09-30-2009, 08:49 AM
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I had a bad thrust bolt cause my diff to loosen. It was brand new so I don't know if there is an issue. I put the old thrust bolt in it and the diff worked.
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Old 09-30-2009, 09:01 AM
  #9719  
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Alrighty I think I had it right to begin with how much slippage should the diff be doing? When I set mine up according to the manual with the transmission back together while holding the spur and one wheel, the slipper will move first but If I lock the brake I can get the diff to slip.

How much resistance should there be and how should it feel?
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Old 09-30-2009, 09:16 AM
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The way i set my diff/slipper is... tighten the diff, back it off like 1/8 turn like the manual says.... now loosen the slipper and hold both rear tires while punching the throttle.... the slipper should be adjusted where the front tires lift off the table and stay about 4" high... no higher no lower, then you can tune it further on the track, but thats typically a good place to start. My guess is your slipper is locked and its got nothing to do with the diff
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