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Old 09-28-2009, 07:25 PM
  #9691  
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I have several B4 / T4 rear Anti Squat / Toe In blocks for sale. Some are new and some are used. If interested, please PM me.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post6402242
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by billythekid View Post
I have several B4 / T4 rear Anti Squat / Toe In blocks for sale. Some are new and some are used. If interested, please PM me.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post6402242


man, i wonder where that idea came from?

and to think, chad due said what i made wouldn't work


i guess imitation is the greatest form of flattery
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by teambighead View Post

The black box kit is the new FT kit, it comes with the plastic chassis.

How can I tell which version I have?
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by agentsmith23 View Post
How can I tell which version I have?

The box color ...
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:07 PM
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I'm guessing I have the black box kit since mine came in a black box. Why did they switch over to the plastic chassis from the carbon one? Was there anything else changed in the kit?
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by chedda bob View Post
man, i wonder where that idea came from?

and to think, chad due said what i made wouldn't work


i guess imitation is the greatest form of flattery
competition is the drive of innovation
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by agentsmith23 View Post
How can I tell which version I have?
The graphite chassis will conduct electricity. Take an ohm meter to the chassis and if it shows 0 then its a plastic chassis. If it shows conductivity, its graphite.

Originally Posted by agentsmith23 View Post
I'm guessing I have the black box kit since mine came in a black box. Why did they switch over to the plastic chassis from the carbon one? Was there anything else changed in the kit?
They switched to the plastic to give the truck more flex (more traction).

The team drivers were doing this before AE switched it. They were buying a new kit and a new plastic chassis and building the truck with the plastic one.

As far as what else changed, i know you dont get all the pistons, you just get #2's now. As for what else, im not sure.
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Old 09-28-2009, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by chedda bob View Post
man, i wonder where that idea came from?

and to think, chad due said what i made wouldn't work


i guess imitation is the greatest form of flattery
I think they work pretty darn good!
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
you can use the Gt-2 captured ball ends....
So wild cherry do you think I would do better to use the GT2 captured ends over the Dubros? Do they use them all around the truck? I will have to look. Have any of you guys done this, I wonder if you do this to try and stop the dreaded popped ball cup during a race will you end up just breaking something instead. Thanks for any input
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Old 09-29-2009, 06:54 AM
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Hey guys,

Sorry to be that guy, but I've never raced in this class and 647 pages is just too much to read before my Factory Kit gets here.

Would any kind soul be willing to clue me in here? I'll be new to 1/10 2wd racing and would love to hear from anyone who's willing to help out about:

-which spares to keep
-battery (lipo/A123)) choices etc.
-If I run a large (5000mah) Lipo can I skip the weights?
-Most commonly broken parts? etc etc?

Thanks,
Jake
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by chedda bob View Post
man, i wonder where that idea came from?

and to think, chad due said what i made wouldn't work


i guess imitation is the greatest form of flattery
Ghea has made those blocks for several years..... they're also made from brass (The proper weight used) rather from steel. So I dont really see much comparison between yours and the Ghea.

They are also available new in the USA for less than this guys'

http://tkocompetitiondev.com/index.php?cPath=38_122
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:14 AM
  #9702  
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Originally Posted by oldandnew View Post
So wild cherry do you think I would do better to use the GT2 captured ends over the Dubros? Do they use them all around the truck? I will have to look. Have any of you guys done this, I wonder if you do this to try and stop the dreaded popped ball cup during a race will you end up just breaking something instead. Thanks for any input
I have use both kinds , Dubro is stiffer and can break compared to the Ae version ...

The extra flex from the softer plastic Ae uses will stretch instead of snapping.


I have never found a need to use captured ball ends on a T-4 , the GT-2 needs them because of its longer race times and rough race conditions....
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:24 AM
  #9703  
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[QUOTE=InfiniteMotors;6405785]



-battery (lipo/A123)) choices etc.
recommend Reedy 5000 as this is the same battery
the Ae team drivers use ....

-If I run a large (5000mah) Lipo can I skip the weights?
yes

-Most commonly broken parts? etc etc?
most parts are always available at your local track...
If you need to have spares recommend

Ft & back arms, ft bulk head, ft & back shock towers,caster blocks & steering knuckles, wing mounts....
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Old 09-29-2009, 10:27 AM
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[QUOTE=Wild Cherry;6406318]
Originally Posted by InfiniteMotors View Post


Ft & back arms, ft bulk head, ft & back shock towers,caster blocks & steering knuckles, wing mounts....
Thanks very much! I got some 5000's and I know the track has spares so I should be ok
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Old 09-29-2009, 12:20 PM
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Default Diff/idler gears

Does anyone have a tip on setting up a diff for brushless power. I keep on melting my diffs when I set them up according to AE but if I tighten it all the way I end up stripping the idler and diff gear.
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