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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 09-27-2009, 07:26 PM
  #9676  
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Originally Posted by teambighead View Post
Quick change will work fine with the B44 hubs. It's not needed unless you have a GT2 already and you plan to swap tires, or if you have a very abrassive track and need to warm up on one set of tires, and then switch to another set for the actual qualifyer.

The GT2 hubs create a lot of extra strain on the hub carriers and bearings and cause them to get sloppy rather quickly.





I don't think anyone really is using weight too much anymore. Typically we are trying to run the car at ROAR minimum ~1500g

If your car is under that weight then add weight under the battery pack.

If you plan on running the CRCRC set up, you will need the .5* rear toe hubs from racers edge.

If you have the black box FT B4 you will be good to go with whats in the box, aside from spring and pistons.

If you have the old style FT B4, you will need a plastic chassis.

I have the Black Box FT B4, I got it from a friend so Idk much about it. I just rebuilt the shocks, and it has #2 pistons inside.



Originally Posted by TNS Racing View Post
another mod you can do is replace the big black washer with 5 .030 aluminum washers from associated. It really helps to further dial the car in by fine tuning the ackerman, instead of either putting the big black washer in the front or rear of the caster block. Try three washers in the front of the caster block and two in back of the caster block, if you need more low speed steering put 2 in front and 3 in back

TNT---- I will try this. I am still having a fishtale problem. I took off the front weights. I have 4 behind battery and 2 on the chassis triangle part. I had a friend fix my remote drove 10xs better, but I know the car can be more fine tune. I just got new faster servo, and It understeers a little at mid-high speeds. My friend says I want to keep on the throttle thruout the race to keep the car from bouncing.

Anything else I can try or remove??? Should I take all my weights off the car? Or how many weights do I run. I see he runs 55grams extra? Thanks again
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Old 09-27-2009, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by killatoyota4569 View Post
TNT---- I will try this. I am still having a fishtale problem. I took off the front weights. I have 4 behind battery and 2 on the chassis triangle part. I had a friend fix my remote drove 10xs better, but I know the car can be more fine tune. I just got new faster servo, and It understeers a little at mid-high speeds. My friend says I want to keep on the throttle thruout the race to keep the car from bouncing.

Anything else I can try or remove??? Should I take all my weights off the car? Or how many weights do I run. I see he runs 55grams extra? Thanks again
You can try moving your rear hubs forward and/or using a larger spur to move your motor back.
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Old 09-27-2009, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by teambighead View Post
Keep in mind that when going to the GT2 steering knuckles the axle height changes. You will have to run the GT2 steering knuckles all the way up to keep the original height.


Also, you're going to be better off with the Jconcepts ball ends over the RPM. The RPM ball cups tend to be too tight on the ball stud and cause the suspension to bind.


Most common things to run on the truck are-
GT2 castor blocks
B44 hub carriers
Plastic chassis --- A lot of the team run a 100% plastic truck
Jconcepts ball ends
Bleeder hole shock caps (once available)
Smaller spur gear, size pending on motor.
Teambighead, will you post a link or copy of your favorite lightweight setup?
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Old 09-27-2009, 10:25 PM
  #9679  
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anyone running Orion servos in their T4? If so, which shim did you use to mount it?
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Old 09-28-2009, 12:08 AM
  #9680  
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Originally Posted by dangerwr View Post
Teambighead, will you post a link or copy of your favorite lightweight setup?

just refound this

http://www.rctech.net/forum/6277786-post9165.html
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Old 09-28-2009, 12:42 AM
  #9681  
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Originally Posted by TNS Racing View Post
bighead- I dont know if you run for associated but I heard they were coming out with new shock towers for the B4 to adjust to the lighter B4 setups nowadays and was wondering if the front shock tower holes are still going to be drilled at an angle? If they are changing, how different would you have to change the front suspension to compensate for the change? and are they doing away with the outer most hole on the rear shock tower?
I haven't heard much in the way of a front tower... just the rear, I've had one on for a few weeks now. 4th hole is now the new inside hole and the outer most hole is gone. It looks much better.


Originally Posted by killatoyota4569 View Post
I have the Black Box FT B4, I got it from a friend so Idk much about it. I just rebuilt the shocks, and it has #2 pistons inside.


TNT---- I will try this. I am still having a fishtale problem. I took off the front weights. I have 4 behind battery and 2 on the chassis triangle part. I had a friend fix my remote drove 10xs better, but I know the car can be more fine tune. I just got new faster servo, and It understeers a little at mid-high speeds. My friend says I want to keep on the throttle thruout the race to keep the car from bouncing.

Anything else I can try or remove??? Should I take all my weights off the car? Or how many weights do I run. I see he runs 55grams extra? Thanks again
The black box kit is the new FT kit, it comes with the plastic chassis.



Listed below are my 2 standard B4 setups. Both set-ups are lightweight and very close to ROAR minimum. One is for med-high grip and one for med-low girp.

The truck set-up is still a 'work in progress' but is a good starting point and currently works well.


B4 Med - Low Grip
B4 Med-High Grip

B4 Med-Low Grip

T4 Set-Up
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Old 09-28-2009, 01:00 AM
  #9682  
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The new front tower is just beefier. A bit more material is used on it and there is much more material for the ball studs to thread into so there is no longer a need to run a nut on the other side of the ball stud mounts.
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Old 09-28-2009, 02:56 AM
  #9683  
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Anyone try mounting a RT5 body on the T4 yet? I like the lines of that body and dont really want to waist $40 bones to see and it not work.
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:10 AM
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Have any of you guys changed your ball cups and ball studs to captured ones like say the ones DuBro makes? And what size would you need to get? 4-40 for both the ball and the studs? This is for a T4. Thanks for any input.
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Old 09-28-2009, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by oldandnew View Post
Have any of you guys changed your ball cups and ball studs to captured ones like say the ones DuBro makes? And what size would you need to get? 4-40 for both the ball and the studs? This is for a T4. Thanks for any input.
The dubro trapped ones that dont have the screw for slop adjustment are fragile and slop out quick.

They arent captured, but the jconcepts ones are good for the rear.
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Old 09-28-2009, 04:00 PM
  #9686  
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Originally Posted by oldandnew View Post
Have any of you guys changed your ball cups and ball studs to captured ones like say the ones DuBro makes? And what size would you need to get? 4-40 for both the ball and the studs? This is for a T4. Thanks for any input.

you can use the Gt-2 captured ball ends....
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Old 09-28-2009, 04:50 PM
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What would be a good starting point for a pinion? T4, 13.5 and a 75t spur. Indoor track is roughly 68' by 40'
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:26 PM
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does anyone make a 2.2 buggy molded insert?
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Old 09-28-2009, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by losi guy View Post
What would be a good starting point for a pinion? T4, 13.5 and a 75t spur. Indoor track is roughly 68' by 40'
23
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Old 09-28-2009, 07:00 PM
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Thanks for the help.
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