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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 09-26-2009, 09:53 PM
  #9661  
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Originally Posted by killatoyota4569 View Post
take what weights off???

and the raito stans for spur gear / pinion gear / FDR???
take all of the front weights off. FDR = Spur/pinion X Transmision ratio.
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Old 09-26-2009, 09:55 PM
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Thanks for the quick reply. I looked at the RPM ends but also thought the jconcepts ends. Are these any good? What about RPM arms or are those more like basher items?
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Old 09-26-2009, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by wild gopher View Post
Thanks for the quick reply. I looked at the RPM ends but also thought the jconcepts ends. Are these any good? What about RPM arms or are those more like basher items?
I would not consider the RPM GT2 arms to be basher items. I personally think they are great. Get those and the bulkhead and be sure to pick up the GT2 30 degree caster blocks and steering knuckles--dialed.
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Old 09-26-2009, 10:46 PM
  #9664  
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Keep in mind that when going to the GT2 steering knuckles the axle height changes. You will have to run the GT2 steering knuckles all the way up to keep the original height.


Also, you're going to be better off with the Jconcepts ball ends over the RPM. The RPM ball cups tend to be too tight on the ball stud and cause the suspension to bind.


Most common things to run on the truck are-
GT2 castor blocks
B44 hub carriers
Plastic chassis --- A lot of the team run a 100% plastic truck
Jconcepts ball ends
Bleeder hole shock caps (once available)
Smaller spur gear, size pending on motor.
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Old 09-26-2009, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by rcman1993 View Post
take all of the front weights off. FDR = Spur/pinion X Transmision ratio.
so just run 4 behind the batt, and then 4 on the chassis sumwhere on the rear ??? none in the front of the car at at??
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Old 09-26-2009, 11:11 PM
  #9666  
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Originally Posted by teambighead View Post
Keep in mind that when going to the GT2 steering knuckles the axle height changes. You will have to run the GT2 steering knuckles all the way up to keep the original height.


Also, you're going to be better off with the Jconcepts ball ends over the RPM. The RPM ball cups tend to be too tight on the ball stud and cause the suspension to bind.


Most common things to run on the truck are-
GT2 castor blocks
B44 hub carriers
Plastic chassis --- A lot of the team run a 100% plastic truck
Jconcepts ball ends
Bleeder hole shock caps (once available)
Smaller spur gear, size pending on motor.
So do I need to order the entire front end from a GT2 or just the caster blocks? Can I use the quick change rears with the B44 hubs? The motor/esc combo ive decided to go with is LRP SPX and the LRP 10.5 motor. Im new to electric but have been racing nitro for many years. All this stuff is new to me, but 1/10th gas truck was my favorite class (when it still existed) and hopefully this will be the same.
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Old 09-27-2009, 01:01 AM
  #9667  
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Originally Posted by wild gopher View Post
So do I need to order the entire front end from a GT2 or just the caster blocks? Can I use the quick change rears with the B44 hubs? The motor/esc combo ive decided to go with is LRP SPX and the LRP 10.5 motor. Im new to electric but have been racing nitro for many years. All this stuff is new to me, but 1/10th gas truck was my favorite class (when it still existed) and hopefully this will be the same.
You do not have to get the front end but I would recommend the arms, steering blocks, and caster blocks. You will also need to either cut down your stock hinge pin or order the GT2 outer hinge pins. The B44 hubs are a must if your are running on a track that has a lot of traction or big jumps. You will need the hubs, bearings, and crush tube.

Here are some Part #'s for you.
GT2 Arms - ASC7917
Steering Blocks - ASC7921
Caster Blocks - ASC7922
Outer Hinge Oins - ASC7927

Crush Tube - ASC7933
Hubs - ASC7930
The bearing sizes ar 3/16"x3/8" and 3/8"x5/8"

I would recommend Avid RC Revolution for the bearings because they are very inexpensive and they are a reall good quality bearing.
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Old 09-27-2009, 01:18 AM
  #9668  
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Thanks for the advice and part numbers, I have added them to my order list. Do most people run the quick change setup in the rear or leave it alone? Also, if yes, will B44 hubs still work? We've got a state champs race in 2 weeks which is why im asking. Im going from 100% nitro to 100% electric basically overnight so I need to get my stuff dialed fast. I have wheels and tires on my order list but wanna make sure I am ordering the right wheels if I am switching to quick change.
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Old 09-27-2009, 08:32 AM
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So what UPGRADES OR MODDS need to be done for the B4 to be dialed in??

I follow the CRCR 09 setup. and have added a few wieghts ... any1 got any more info thank you
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Old 09-27-2009, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by killatoyota4569 View Post
so just run 4 behind the batt, and then 4 on the chassis sumwhere on the rear ??? none in the front of the car at at??
correct
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Old 09-27-2009, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by wild gopher View Post
Thanks for the advice and part numbers, I have added them to my order list. Do most people run the quick change setup in the rear or leave it alone? Also, if yes, will B44 hubs still work? We've got a state champs race in 2 weeks which is why im asking. Im going from 100% nitro to 100% electric basically overnight so I need to get my stuff dialed fast. I have wheels and tires on my order list but wanna make sure I am ordering the right wheels if I am switching to quick change.
Quick change will work fine with the B44 hubs. It's not needed unless you have a GT2 already and you plan to swap tires, or if you have a very abrassive track and need to warm up on one set of tires, and then switch to another set for the actual qualifyer.

The GT2 hubs create a lot of extra strain on the hub carriers and bearings and cause them to get sloppy rather quickly.


Originally Posted by killatoyota4569 View Post
So what UPGRADES OR MODDS need to be done for the B4 to be dialed in??

I follow the CRCR 09 setup. and have added a few wieghts ... any1 got any more info thank you

I don't think anyone really is using weight too much anymore. Typically we are trying to run the car at ROAR minimum ~1500g

If your car is under that weight then add weight under the battery pack.

If you plan on running the CRCRC set up, you will need the .5* rear toe hubs from racers edge.

If you have the black box FT B4 you will be good to go with whats in the box, aside from spring and pistons.

If you have the old style FT B4, you will need a plastic chassis.
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Old 09-27-2009, 02:28 PM
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Team Bighead. I tried another B4 with your setup. When I looked at the guys car, I thought to myself, that cant handle well. That setup was pretty planted and wasnt as twitchy as the lightweight setup. It did oversteer in some areas. But overall it felt real good. If anyone wants a setup that isn't as twitchy as the Lightweight setup that is much easier to drive, try Team Bigheads setup.
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:20 PM
  #9673  
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Originally Posted by killatoyota4569 View Post
So what UPGRADES OR MODDS need to be done for the B4 to be dialed in??

I follow the CRCR 09 setup. and have added a few wieghts ... any1 got any more info thank you

another mod you can do is replace the big black washer with 5 .030 aluminum washers from associated. It really helps to further dial the car in by fine tuning the ackerman, instead of either putting the big black washer in the front or rear of the caster block. Try three washers in the front of the caster block and two in back of the caster block, if you need more low speed steering put 2 in front and 3 in back
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:28 PM
  #9674  
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bighead- I dont know if you run for associated but I heard they were coming out with new shock towers for the B4 to adjust to the lighter B4 setups nowadays and was wondering if the front shock tower holes are still going to be drilled at an angle? If they are changing, how different would you have to change the front suspension to compensate for the change? and are they doing away with the outer most hole on the rear shock tower?
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Old 09-27-2009, 06:33 PM
  #9675  
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Originally Posted by wayboarder View Post
Team Bighead. I tried another B4 with your setup. When I looked at the guys car, I thought to myself, that cant handle well. That setup was pretty planted and wasnt as twitchy as the lightweight setup. It did oversteer in some areas. But overall it felt real good. If anyone wants a setup that isn't as twitchy as the Lightweight setup that is much easier to drive, try Team Bigheads setup.
Do you have a link to this setup? Thanks,

- Danger
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