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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 09-18-2009, 12:45 PM
  #9571  
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alright.
I've not been in this to long but noticed some of the real fast guys running
B44 rear bearing hubs whats that do 4 ya?
and seen some running quick change rims or hubs are they from a GT2?
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:52 PM
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The rear hub bearings take serious beatings, and the B44 hub requires a larger outer bearing that can take the beating better.

So in short, B44 hubs and bearings will last longer.
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Old 09-18-2009, 03:16 PM
  #9573  
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Newbie question:

Im running an out of the box FT B4. My girlfriend just got a used FT T4. The shock caps that are on her used truck, each have a tiny screw, which screws all the way through... which made it nice and easy to bleed the shocks when we rebuilt them last night. The shock caps on my B4 don't have these.

Does the T4 come like that or did the previous owner drill these in there?
The previous owner either drilled the stock caps (prolly hard to do), or put yokomo bleeder caps on them.
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Old 09-19-2009, 01:23 PM
  #9574  
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ok guys, C.B. Products is back in town and i have began making more of my famous t4/b4/sc10 4* squat blocks! i currently have 2 alum and 4 steel in stock and will be making more in the next few days/ week or so!

if anyone is interested please shoot me a pm! the alum's will be 25 shipped and the steel's 27 shipped due to the machining process and constantly breaking the tiny cutters on the steel blocks ... it gets expensive


please shoot me a pm w/ any interest/ questions!

C.B.
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Old 09-19-2009, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Cpt.America View Post
Newbie question:

Im running an out of the box FT B4. My girlfriend just got a used FT T4. The shock caps that are on her used truck, each have a tiny screw, which screws all the way through... which made it nice and easy to bleed the shocks when we rebuilt them last night. The shock caps on my B4 don't have these.

Does the T4 come like that or did the previous owner drill these in there?
ae makes the,m now check there site
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Old 09-20-2009, 05:24 PM
  #9576  
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ok so i just got a new t4 rtr and i want to know what motor esc and battery i should use for racing????? i also want to bash a little... but i dont have very much money so
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Old 09-20-2009, 05:37 PM
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cheapest "good" brushless is a mamba sidewinder 5700 for about $150 new, used Ive seen around $100
onyx 230 charger, $85 new and will charge ac/dc any battery out there
batteries, cheapbatteries.com
I prefer novak GTB but u get what ya pay for. I don't recomend the havok
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Old 09-20-2009, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by hasboy View Post
ok so i just got a new t4 rtr and i want to know what motor esc and battery i should use for racing????? i also want to bash a little... but i dont have very much money so
First thing you need to do is find out what people at your racetrack run. Then go by that. If stock then a 17.5. If Superstock then a 13.5. If mod, i suggest a 10.5 or 8.5. Novak motors are good. I have had good luck out of fantoms also.

I run an LRP TC spec speedo. They are a great speedo. I also run a LRP Sphere 07 in my b4. Also a great speedo.

Novak speedos are ok, i had good luck out of them on dirt, just have to gear them a little different.
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Old 09-20-2009, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by CClay1282 View Post
First thing you need to do is find out what people at your racetrack run. Then go by that. If stock then a 17.5. If Superstock then a 13.5. If mod, i suggest a 10.5 or 8.5. Novak motors are good. I have had good luck out of fantoms also.

I run an LRP TC spec speedo. They are a great speedo. I also run a LRP Sphere 07 in my b4. Also a great speedo.

Novak speedos are ok, i had good luck out of them on dirt, just have to gear them a little different.
+1 mate
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by hasboy View Post
ok so i just got a new t4 rtr and i want to know what motor esc and battery i should use for racing????? i also want to bash a little... but i dont have very much money so
If you have access to a power supply get the team orion clubman lipo charger $55.00, it charges most everything and includes a built in balancer, you can't beat the quality, features for the price ( if you have a power supply/source) as for motor and speedo, it's not the cheapest but I reccommend the tekin rs pro: small light, tons of features and adjustments and fully upgradeable so you won't have to buy a new speedo to keep up with the latest tech if you end up getting serious about racing.
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by offtraxx View Post
cheapest "good" brushless is a mamba sidewinder 5700 for about $150 new, used Ive seen around $100
onyx 230 charger, $85 new and will charge ac/dc any battery out there
batteries, cheapbatteries.com
I prefer novak GTB but u get what ya pay for. I don't recomend the havok
theres nothing wrong with the new havocs. the first generation ones had the problems. id go havoc/ballistic 17.5 for racing motor and esc for a good deal on something not too cheap.
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by msedsp View Post
If you have access to a power supply get the team orion clubman lipo charger $55.00, it charges most everything and includes a built in balancer, you can't beat the quality, features for the price ( if you have a power supply/source) as for motor and speedo, it's not the cheapest but I reccommend the tekin rs pro: small light, tons of features and adjustments and fully upgradeable so you won't have to buy a new speedo to keep up with the latest tech if you end up getting serious about racing.
all you really need is the rs, unless your going to run a motor hotter then a 5.5 get the rs
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Old 09-20-2009, 08:59 PM
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+1 on the Clubman lipo.
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Old 09-21-2009, 10:52 AM
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Hey guys...wondering how you are gearing a b4 with a LRP 10.5 and 13.5?

Any help is appreciated, also if you know how to gear a 10.5 in a B44 as well. Thanks!
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Old 09-21-2009, 11:08 AM
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Anyone use a Futaba 3PK for their radio? I'm having difficulty setting brake EPA without moving the whole throttle band. It makes the car difficult to setup. So I'd like to PM someone to discuss this please. I'm lost as well as a couple of our local pro drivers. They suggested removing brake EPA and I told them I can't without screwing up everything else. So I thought I'd come here for some anwers. Thanx
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