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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 09-14-2009, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by richard.bratton View Post
If the track follows ROAR rules, he'll need to add weight with the 3800 or 5000 to reach minimum weight. I personally run the IP3800 and love it! IF ROAR isn't required, it's still best to be at minimum weight as a really light buggy is hard to handle.
Mabey your running lighter tires or wheels or mabey truck - not sure but my B4 makes weight with the reedy #709 5000mah lipo with no other added weight, plus I'm running the carbon chassis, if you run the plastic it's heavier.
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Old 09-14-2009, 03:42 PM
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2 weeks is far more reasonable. But every race is excessive unless you go through long periods of time between running. Ill get 2 weeks running 2 qualifiers and a main with about 1 hour or so of practice per session racing at least twice a week on a set of seals. long story short 6-7 hours of running on the seals before Ill change them for consistency's sake. But every race day? must not run very often.

Here ya go, all the tips you'll need to build a AE shocks correctly the first time.
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/12/8/1.html
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:16 PM
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On the AE shocks, per an article I posted a while back, I ground the big middle spacer down from 3.3mm to 3mm. This gives the orings a little breathing room if/when they swell up a little. Also the center spacer is usually a little concave on the sides which can make it catch on the edge of the seal area on the shock body. I reduced the diameter of the round plastic pieces and this smoothed out the slightly concave plastic spacer. The diameter of all the spacers is just over 6mm when done, but an even 6mm is a good number to shoot for. I have been using the same seals for 3 weeks now and they are still butter smooth with no leaks, and this is with old non coated shafts.
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael#81 View Post
I would go with the Trinity IP3800 35C battery.

With 17.5 you do not have the power to break the wheels loose as much and the lighter weight of the 3800 will give you a bigger advantage over the heavier 5000. If you are going to go with a 5000 mah battery I would go with the Thunder Power 40C battery over any other going right now.
the thunder "chicken" doenst have as much power as the reedy. a couple of guys have them at our track and they prefer the reedy over that, the c rating is off unlike the reedy. also, i like the weight for better performance, and it doesnt matter how heavy the battery is when it has 175 amps.
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Old 09-14-2009, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by wayboarder View Post
2 weeks is far more reasonable. But every race is excessive unless you go through long periods of time between running. Ill get 2 weeks running 2 qualifiers and a main with about 1 hour or so of practice per session racing at least twice a week on a set of seals. long story short 6-7 hours of running on the seals before Ill change them for consistency's sake. But every race day? must not run very often.

Here ya go, all the tips you'll need to build a AE shocks correctly the first time.
I do it because I keeps the shocks smooth and i dont use luquid sand paper for shock oil. I also use GS Racing o rings. 20 seals perback and i bought 4 of them a month ago and still have a lot left over. IMO
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Old 09-14-2009, 05:50 PM
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Default camber and toe links

Is there a trick to pulling the toe and camber links off the T4? I just tore the skin off my thumb trying to get one off. They also look like they are gonna snap when Iam pulling at them.
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Old 09-14-2009, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by trap121 View Post
Is there a trick to pulling the toe and camber links off the T4? I just tore the skin off my thumb trying to get one off. They also look like they are gonna snap when Iam pulling at them.
Small pair of pliers and pop them right off with a slight twist.
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Old 09-14-2009, 05:58 PM
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Seen a few Reedy's die lately.... one cell will loose voltage and not take a charge. Both guys are AE team drivers and know what theyre doing..... I've Been running the trinity 5000 40C's since spring with no issues so far and if they go bad I just call and they'll send another one... no BS
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by wayboarder View Post
2 weeks is far more reasonable. But every race is excessive unless you go through long periods of time between running. Ill get 2 weeks running 2 qualifiers and a main with about 1 hour or so of practice per session racing at least twice a week on a set of seals. long story short 6-7 hours of running on the seals before Ill change them for consistency's sake. But every race day? must not run very often.

Here ya go, all the tips you'll need to build a AE shocks correctly the first time.
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/12/8/1.html
Great write up. I don't know who did it but they forgot one step. Anyone who will sand .03 off of the spacers must have some thoughts on how to fill and bleed them.
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:19 PM
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Had nothing but great performance from my 5000 Reedy's for over a year now and still run great....

Have both 20C & 35C


Have not even balance um , not once...
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:20 PM
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You guys can really feel the difference in 17.5 offroad when it comes to C rating? I can maybe see it in TC but i dont think i could tell in offroad. Thats not what i wanted to hear about the Reedy packs. I just bought my first one. I have always run Orion and they are awesome. I bought the Reedy simply with the plan as using it for 1/8 scale some day. I cant justify $500 in batteries anymore and if i can run 2 or 3 cars with 2 packs, that works for me.
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:28 PM
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Default 20C verses 30C

difference is small and not really a big difference , although in stock every little bit can help...
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Old 09-14-2009, 07:31 PM
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Default diff feels crap

just building a new kit up, and the diff has been built per instructions.

all I have done different is glue the diff rings to the outdrives.

the diff feels very notchy! like it will turn 1/4 at a time, not smooth at all!

screwed it down, not even all the way down, as I was careful not to flatspot the balls.

Has anyone had any dodgy balls from the factory team kit?
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Old 09-14-2009, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker View Post
just building a new kit up, and the diff has been built per instructions.

all I have done different is glue the diff rings to the outdrives.

the diff feels very notchy! like it will turn 1/4 at a time, not smooth at all!

screwed it down, not even all the way down, as I was careful not to flatspot the balls.

Has anyone had any dodgy balls from the factory team kit?
why would you glue the rings to the outdrives?????
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Old 09-14-2009, 07:54 PM
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remove all that glue !!!
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