54LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
09-02-2009, 11:23 PM
#9256
Front-
-35wt with 3-hole #55 piston
-1 limiter inside the shock (0.030")
-Brown spring - Note - B44 spring cup should be used when on the inside of the front arm, as the standard 'low' cup hits/drags on the arm, and changes the prelode at times.
-Inside on the arm
-Inside on the tower
Rear-
-35wt with 3-hole #55 piston
-1 limiter inside the shock (0.030")
-Green Spring -note- If more steering is needed, cut off 1 coil to increase tension, as going to the silver in most cases is too stiff. With a cut spring the b44 spring cups will be needed.
-Inside hole on the arm
-4th (drilled) hole on the rear tower
Start at front arms level, and rear dog bones level for the initial ride height.
I'd give you a actuall measurement, but this varies from tire to tire due to different tire diameters.
Let me know if you have any questions
09-02-2009, 11:26 PM
#9257
My shocks are the older non threaded ones, you would think I would be able to preload enough even with cut springs right?
I did notice with using the 4 hole on the rear tower the spring cups hit the arm a little. I ended up grinding the arm a bit for clearance.
I did notice with using the 4 hole on the rear tower the spring cups hit the arm a little. I ended up grinding the arm a bit for clearance.
09-02-2009, 11:38 PM
#9258
A little trick to building the shocks is to make sure you get ALL of the flashing off the plastic that contains the o-rings.
there are 4 plastic pieces on the shock rebuild kit (per shock). Each of these pieces come from a parts tree, AE does a decent job of getting this flashing off, however, if any is remaining when the shock is built, it will cause problems for the o-ring. The space you have to fit the whole seal system into the shock body is very tight, and extra material has to go some where, and usually it goes into the o-ring and puncture or tear it.
Make sure to find where this flashing is on the plastic pieces and cut it off. I generally cut off excess also. Each piece has 2 flashing points, which are always going to be 180* from eachother.
-On the 2 flat spacers I cut them to look more like a squared off oval than circle.
-The thick on I cut into it at 45* to cut the flashing off on the two points, making sure to leave the original height of the spacer in tact.
-The square spacer that clicks into the body I cut the 2 flashing edges so that they have a concave edge..
Once this is all prepped I then assemble it on the building tool and then grease it and slide it into the body. MAKE SURE IT CLICKS when you push it in. Also, before you put your shock shafts in, make sure to put a light coat of oil onto them. Many time's I've seen people tear the o-rings with the shock shaft when installing it.
If you've done this, and still have leaking issues, make sure the shock shaft's aren't damaged. If the shafts are fine, replace the shock body. The shock bodies DO wear and can start to leak faster as they get older.
there are 4 plastic pieces on the shock rebuild kit (per shock). Each of these pieces come from a parts tree, AE does a decent job of getting this flashing off, however, if any is remaining when the shock is built, it will cause problems for the o-ring. The space you have to fit the whole seal system into the shock body is very tight, and extra material has to go some where, and usually it goes into the o-ring and puncture or tear it.
Make sure to find where this flashing is on the plastic pieces and cut it off. I generally cut off excess also. Each piece has 2 flashing points, which are always going to be 180* from eachother.
-On the 2 flat spacers I cut them to look more like a squared off oval than circle.
-The thick on I cut into it at 45* to cut the flashing off on the two points, making sure to leave the original height of the spacer in tact.
-The square spacer that clicks into the body I cut the 2 flashing edges so that they have a concave edge..
Once this is all prepped I then assemble it on the building tool and then grease it and slide it into the body. MAKE SURE IT CLICKS when you push it in. Also, before you put your shock shafts in, make sure to put a light coat of oil onto them. Many time's I've seen people tear the o-rings with the shock shaft when installing it.
If you've done this, and still have leaking issues, make sure the shock shaft's aren't damaged. If the shafts are fine, replace the shock body. The shock bodies DO wear and can start to leak faster as they get older.
09-02-2009, 11:40 PM
#9259
You should be fine with the shock bodies that use pre-load clips, as you can just add more clips.
If your spring cup hits the arm, use the B44 spring cup. It will also allow you to use less preload clips.
I have used the B44 cups F/R on all of my 2wds
09-02-2009, 11:44 PM
#9260
http://users.telenet.be/elvo/12/8/1.html
This is a pretty good guide to making sure the AE seals are installed right. I ended up reducing the height of the big middle spacer to 3mm and I took the diameter of all the plastic down to 6 mm. The plastic doesn't seal, the orings do. The plastic just spaces things out properly. Taking the middle spacer down a bit allows for a little oring swelling that might occur.
This is a pretty good guide to making sure the AE seals are installed right. I ended up reducing the height of the big middle spacer to 3mm and I took the diameter of all the plastic down to 6 mm. The plastic doesn't seal, the orings do. The plastic just spaces things out properly. Taking the middle spacer down a bit allows for a little oring swelling that might occur.
09-02-2009, 11:49 PM
#9261
The hubs are not far away. I am machining as fast as I can. 
I am a one man show so there is not a web site up yet. My "real job" is cutting into my R/C time.
I am always on here though 
This is as gound floor as a R/C company can start; business name is Dirty Word-R/C Products. (started/registered two weeks ago) Right now getting the hubs made is my main concern. Inventory has started showing up a couple days ago. Right now this is the only place I am promoting these. I will start my own thread soon (sorry for jacking this one) when I take some new pictures of the final design. My trader rating on here is not very impressive but my personal and work accounts I manage have 100% rating with over 900 eBay customers, and Dirty Word-RC customers will get the same attention.
09-02-2009, 11:53 PM
#9262
So if I want to remove some of the rear toe in on the B4 for an indoor carpet oval, I all I need are these parts, right? I would just flip the hubs to remove toe instead of adding. Racers Edge says the 1.5 degree hubs are discontinued, and that is what the good drivers at my track are using to remove the toe.
(1) ASC7932 GT2 Rear Hub Carrier (1.5 degree)
(1) ASC7935 3/16 x 1/2 Outer Bearings
(1) ASC3977 3/16 x 3/8 Inner Bearings
(1) ASC7933 Crush Tube
(1) ASC7932 GT2 Rear Hub Carrier (1.5 degree)
(1) ASC7935 3/16 x 1/2 Outer Bearings
(1) ASC3977 3/16 x 3/8 Inner Bearings
(1) ASC7933 Crush Tube
The GT2 hubs will NOT work.... The offset is far too different, your dogbones won't even reach the outdrives if you do this.
Racers edge makes rear toe blocks, .5, 1, and I think 1.5. They down side is that they are aluminum, so they're not cheap.
You should be able to run these backwards and not have any fitment issues... The bearings and crush tube are the same as the GT2 and B44 rear hubs.
09-02-2009, 11:58 PM
#9263
Ya, the fronts cups are really close to the arm, but there is a very small gap so it should be ok. It probably depends on how far a person threads the eyelet on. Mine are on all the way to the point where you can just feel some resistance to the shaft threads bottoming in the eyelet, then measure both sides and make them the same.
09-03-2009, 05:20 AM
#9264
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
Thanks for all u guys answers on the lipo ques I had.. I ended up going with the brand new promatch.
I have another ques on motors. What would be my better choice on a 10.5? I see that lrp doesn't make one in the new x12 version, which was my first choice bc I wanted to stay with all associated equipment. Also bc I don't think I can drive much higher turn than that, and only mod class is raced in my area. I will be running the SPX esc and this will be in a T4. I am currently running a x11 10.5 in my b4. Just stating that to be another useful reference.
I have another ques on motors. What would be my better choice on a 10.5? I see that lrp doesn't make one in the new x12 version, which was my first choice bc I wanted to stay with all associated equipment. Also bc I don't think I can drive much higher turn than that, and only mod class is raced in my area. I will be running the SPX esc and this will be in a T4. I am currently running a x11 10.5 in my b4. Just stating that to be another useful reference.
09-03-2009, 06:08 AM
#9265
Tech Adept
iTrader: (14)
The GT2 hubs will NOT work.... The offset is far too different, your dogbones won't even reach the outdrives if you do this.
Racers edge makes rear toe blocks, .5, 1, and I think 1.5. They down side is that they are aluminum, so they're not cheap.
You should be able to run these backwards and not have any fitment issues... The bearings and crush tube are the same as the GT2 and B44 rear hubs.
Racers edge makes rear toe blocks, .5, 1, and I think 1.5. They down side is that they are aluminum, so they're not cheap.
You should be able to run these backwards and not have any fitment issues... The bearings and crush tube are the same as the GT2 and B44 rear hubs.
Racers edge doesn't make the 1.5 degree anymore. From what I gather, my choices are to either get 1.5 degree hubs (racers edge, gt2, trinity, etc) and swap sides, or to drill a hole through the set screw hole on the rear chassis plate to move the hinge pin. I'd rather not have to drill, because then I can't use off-the-shelf parts to fix a vehicle without some work.
So I'm still looking for help. Can the GT2 hubs works reversed, or what currently available hubs will work?
09-03-2009, 07:22 AM
#9266
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
Post 1684 of this thread seems to indicate it can work. http://www.rctech.net/forum/2959208-post1684.html
Racers edge doesn't make the 1.5 degree anymore. From what I gather, my choices are to either get 1.5 degree hubs (racers edge, gt2, trinity, etc) and swap sides, or to drill a hole through the set screw hole on the rear chassis plate to move the hinge pin. I'd rather not have to drill, because then I can't use off-the-shelf parts to fix a vehicle without some work.
So I'm still looking for help. Can the GT2 hubs works reversed, or what currently available hubs will work?
Racers edge doesn't make the 1.5 degree anymore. From what I gather, my choices are to either get 1.5 degree hubs (racers edge, gt2, trinity, etc) and swap sides, or to drill a hole through the set screw hole on the rear chassis plate to move the hinge pin. I'd rather not have to drill, because then I can't use off-the-shelf parts to fix a vehicle without some work.
So I'm still looking for help. Can the GT2 hubs works reversed, or what currently available hubs will work?
09-03-2009, 07:39 AM
#9267
Post 1684 of this thread seems to indicate it can work. http://www.rctech.net/forum/2959208-post1684.html
Racers edge doesn't make the 1.5 degree anymore. From what I gather, my choices are to either get 1.5 degree hubs (racers edge, gt2, trinity, etc) and swap sides, or to drill a hole through the set screw hole on the rear chassis plate to move the hinge pin. I'd rather not have to drill, because then I can't use off-the-shelf parts to fix a vehicle without some work.
So I'm still looking for help. Can the GT2 hubs works reversed, or what currently available hubs will work?
Racers edge doesn't make the 1.5 degree anymore. From what I gather, my choices are to either get 1.5 degree hubs (racers edge, gt2, trinity, etc) and swap sides, or to drill a hole through the set screw hole on the rear chassis plate to move the hinge pin. I'd rather not have to drill, because then I can't use off-the-shelf parts to fix a vehicle without some work.
So I'm still looking for help. Can the GT2 hubs works reversed, or what currently available hubs will work?
I just purchase a new set from Racers Edge , they were even machined for the larger bearing....
09-03-2009, 08:00 AM
#9268
The shock set up should be this-
Front-
-35wt with 3-hole #55 piston
-1 limiter inside the shock (0.030")
-Brown spring - Note - B44 spring cup should be used when on the inside of the front arm, as the standard 'low' cup hits/drags on the arm, and changes the prelode at times.
-Inside on the arm
-Inside on the tower
Rear-
-35wt with 3-hole #55 piston
-1 limiter inside the shock (0.030")
-Green Spring -note- If more steering is needed, cut off 1 coil to increase tension, as going to the silver in most cases is too stiff. With a cut spring the b44 spring cups will be needed.
-Inside hole on the arm
-4th (drilled) hole on the rear tower
Start at front arms level, and rear dog bones level for the initial ride height.
I'd give you a actuall measurement, but this varies from tire to tire due to different tire diameters.
Let me know if you have any questions
Front-
-35wt with 3-hole #55 piston
-1 limiter inside the shock (0.030")
-Brown spring - Note - B44 spring cup should be used when on the inside of the front arm, as the standard 'low' cup hits/drags on the arm, and changes the prelode at times.
-Inside on the arm
-Inside on the tower
Rear-
-35wt with 3-hole #55 piston
-1 limiter inside the shock (0.030")
-Green Spring -note- If more steering is needed, cut off 1 coil to increase tension, as going to the silver in most cases is too stiff. With a cut spring the b44 spring cups will be needed.
-Inside hole on the arm
-4th (drilled) hole on the rear tower
Start at front arms level, and rear dog bones level for the initial ride height.
I'd give you a actuall measurement, but this varies from tire to tire due to different tire diameters.
Let me know if you have any questions
A little trick to building the shocks is to make sure you get ALL of the flashing off the plastic that contains the o-rings.
there are 4 plastic pieces on the shock rebuild kit (per shock). Each of these pieces come from a parts tree, AE does a decent job of getting this flashing off, however, if any is remaining when the shock is built, it will cause problems for the o-ring. The space you have to fit the whole seal system into the shock body is very tight, and extra material has to go some where, and usually it goes into the o-ring and puncture or tear it.
Make sure to find where this flashing is on the plastic pieces and cut it off. I generally cut off excess also. Each piece has 2 flashing points, which are always going to be 180* from eachother.
-On the 2 flat spacers I cut them to look more like a squared off oval than circle.
-The thick on I cut into it at 45* to cut the flashing off on the two points, making sure to leave the original height of the spacer in tact.
-The square spacer that clicks into the body I cut the 2 flashing edges so that they have a concave edge..
Once this is all prepped I then assemble it on the building tool and then grease it and slide it into the body. MAKE SURE IT CLICKS when you push it in. Also, before you put your shock shafts in, make sure to put a light coat of oil onto them. Many time's I've seen people tear the o-rings with the shock shaft when installing it.
If you've done this, and still have leaking issues, make sure the shock shaft's aren't damaged. If the shafts are fine, replace the shock body. The shock bodies DO wear and can start to leak faster as they get older.
there are 4 plastic pieces on the shock rebuild kit (per shock). Each of these pieces come from a parts tree, AE does a decent job of getting this flashing off, however, if any is remaining when the shock is built, it will cause problems for the o-ring. The space you have to fit the whole seal system into the shock body is very tight, and extra material has to go some where, and usually it goes into the o-ring and puncture or tear it.
Make sure to find where this flashing is on the plastic pieces and cut it off. I generally cut off excess also. Each piece has 2 flashing points, which are always going to be 180* from eachother.
-On the 2 flat spacers I cut them to look more like a squared off oval than circle.
-The thick on I cut into it at 45* to cut the flashing off on the two points, making sure to leave the original height of the spacer in tact.
-The square spacer that clicks into the body I cut the 2 flashing edges so that they have a concave edge..
Once this is all prepped I then assemble it on the building tool and then grease it and slide it into the body. MAKE SURE IT CLICKS when you push it in. Also, before you put your shock shafts in, make sure to put a light coat of oil onto them. Many time's I've seen people tear the o-rings with the shock shaft when installing it.
If you've done this, and still have leaking issues, make sure the shock shaft's aren't damaged. If the shafts are fine, replace the shock body. The shock bodies DO wear and can start to leak faster as they get older.
09-03-2009, 08:12 AM
#9269
Tech Adept
iTrader: (14)
The ST Racing ones are a bit cheaper, but again only available in 1 degree. These look more like the stock part. But I haven't read of anybody using these reversed, so I don't know if they'll fit correctly or not. I also wouldn't have to buy the larger bearings.
09-03-2009, 10:22 AM
#9270
Rob D, as said earlier the gt2 hubs wont work. Really the only options for removing rear toe are either the st 1deg or the racers edge 1deg and reverse them. Remember that toe is measured per side. The guys at your track running the 1.5 hubs reversed still have 1.5 toe-in. Having a half deg more toe wont be all that bad, try moving the rear hubs all the way back. I've ran a lot of carpet oval back in the day, it was easier with the b3/t3 because companies made 0 deg blocks.