34LikesRC10B4/T4 Forum
08-26-2009, 11:22 PM
#9106
Tony , TT brought & uses the orignal molds, it just they have more wear after all these years...
BDW holes are straight and true as ever...
BDW holes are straight and true as ever...
08-26-2009, 11:35 PM
#9107
Ya I'm familiar with the TTR buyout 
They also use their own (softer) plastic, the car is way different from the original kits I've had over the years. I know my first couple of kits I didnt need a reamer.... now you'd need a hammer without one. If you hold the arm upright and the pin doesnt drop out..... its binding. I also have religously used pledge on my pins for years.... gas and electric cars
Its not necessarily a bad thing..... I dont mind reaming all of them.... that way they're straight. Some cars you ream them and the pins are all over the place.
They also use their own (softer) plastic, the car is way different from the original kits I've had over the years. I know my first couple of kits I didnt need a reamer.... now you'd need a hammer without one. If you hold the arm upright and the pin doesnt drop out..... its binding. I also have religously used pledge on my pins for years.... gas and electric cars
Its not necessarily a bad thing..... I dont mind reaming all of them.... that way they're straight. Some cars you ream them and the pins are all over the place.
08-27-2009, 02:07 AM
#9108
Originally Posted by Tony Newland
Here ya go.... http://www.rcplanet.com/Dynamite_Sus..._p/dyn3098.htm
absolutely necessary, especially since TTR took over manufacturing. BTW the reamer doesnt "loosen" the arms up, or make them wear out quicker. It lines the pin holes up perfectly straight.... during the cooling process parts shrink and relax. This makes for cooked pin holes. You cant effectively tune a car that has any binding, you'll chase the setup till the end of time. Everyone should have one, especially with a B4
We also have the Duo 2's for probably the best price anywhere
http://www.rcplanet.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=duo+2
absolutely necessary, especially since TTR took over manufacturing. BTW the reamer doesnt "loosen" the arms up, or make them wear out quicker. It lines the pin holes up perfectly straight.... during the cooling process parts shrink and relax. This makes for cooked pin holes. You cant effectively tune a car that has any binding, you'll chase the setup till the end of time. Everyone should have one, especially with a B4
We also have the Duo 2's for probably the best price anywhere
http://www.rcplanet.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=duo+2
The B4 hinge pins are 7/64" (2.8mm). If you can't find a reamer, use a drill bit. A bit cruder, but does the job. I'm using a Dremel one.
Mouldings on the newer Thunder Tiger produced parts are getting worse and worse. Caster blocks in particular are terrible - you will struggle to even get a pin through them, let alone have it move freely. Some of the arms on my recent kit needed drilling too. There is also a lot of flash on the mould lines which must be removed.
08-27-2009, 05:18 AM
#9109
Tech Adept
aright guys might be running my first offroad race here in a couple of weeks I wanna get a 19 turn motor some people told me to get a trinty pro acronite or how ever you spell it does anyone else have any other sugestions? Also what gears (pinion and spur) would I need to have for a 19 turn motor i got a 17t now and what changes can you make for an offroad track that will make a differnce how the truck runs by the way I got a t4 if anyone needs to know.
08-27-2009, 08:57 AM
#9111
sosidge
caster block is suppose to be very tight , do not ream ...
caster block is suppose to be very tight , do not ream ...
08-27-2009, 09:16 AM
#9113
Pork
caster blocks have to fit the pin tight or mass slop will occur...
caster blocks have to fit the pin tight or mass slop will occur...
08-27-2009, 10:42 AM
#9115
Pork
Not the arm , just the block & pin should fit tight....
Only smooth out the flash surrounding the pin holes.
Only need to do this and you will have a slop free and very smooth suspension....
Not the arm , just the block & pin should fit tight....
Only smooth out the flash surrounding the pin holes.
Only need to do this and you will have a slop free and very smooth suspension....
08-27-2009, 12:05 PM
#9118
Originally Posted by porkey
Ok now I know what your saying.
Another question, how tight should it be? Like tight where you can get it in? Or tight where there is no slop?
Another question, how tight should it be? Like tight where you can get it in? Or tight where there is no slop?
Tight , like as having to tap pin in place on the arm to install...
08-27-2009, 12:16 PM
#9120
Sloppy as in excess play porky...
or use worn out caster blocks....
No need to tap those in when they have wear...
or use worn out caster blocks....
No need to tap those in when they have wear...
