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RC10B4/T4 Forum

Old 08-26-2009, 11:22 PM
  #9106  
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Tony , TT brought & uses the orignal molds, it just they have more wear after all these years...

BDW holes are straight and true as ever...
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:35 PM
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Ya I'm familiar with the TTR buyout

They also use their own (softer) plastic, the car is way different from the original kits I've had over the years. I know my first couple of kits I didnt need a reamer.... now you'd need a hammer without one. If you hold the arm upright and the pin doesnt drop out..... its binding. I also have religously used pledge on my pins for years.... gas and electric cars

Its not necessarily a bad thing..... I dont mind reaming all of them.... that way they're straight. Some cars you ream them and the pins are all over the place.
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Old 08-27-2009, 02:07 AM
  #9108  
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Originally Posted by Tony Newland View Post
Here ya go.... http://www.rcplanet.com/Dynamite_Sus..._p/dyn3098.htm

absolutely necessary, especially since TTR took over manufacturing. BTW the reamer doesnt "loosen" the arms up, or make them wear out quicker. It lines the pin holes up perfectly straight.... during the cooling process parts shrink and relax. This makes for cooked pin holes. You cant effectively tune a car that has any binding, you'll chase the setup till the end of time. Everyone should have one, especially with a B4

We also have the Duo 2's for probably the best price anywhere

http://www.rcplanet.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=duo+2
DON'T use a 1/8" reamer! Far too big!

The B4 hinge pins are 7/64" (2.8mm). If you can't find a reamer, use a drill bit. A bit cruder, but does the job. I'm using a Dremel one.

Mouldings on the newer Thunder Tiger produced parts are getting worse and worse. Caster blocks in particular are terrible - you will struggle to even get a pin through them, let alone have it move freely. Some of the arms on my recent kit needed drilling too. There is also a lot of flash on the mould lines which must be removed.
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Old 08-27-2009, 05:18 AM
  #9109  
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aright guys might be running my first offroad race here in a couple of weeks I wanna get a 19 turn motor some people told me to get a trinty pro acronite or how ever you spell it does anyone else have any other sugestions? Also what gears (pinion and spur) would I need to have for a 19 turn motor i got a 17t now and what changes can you make for an offroad track that will make a differnce how the truck runs by the way I got a t4 if anyone needs to know.
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Old 08-27-2009, 08:48 AM
  #9110  
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ya I think your right, 1/8" is too big

too late last night
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Old 08-27-2009, 08:57 AM
  #9111  
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sosidge
caster block is suppose to be very tight , do not ream ...
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Old 08-27-2009, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
sosidge
caster block is suppose to be very tight , do not ream ...
Where are they suppose to be tight at.
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Old 08-27-2009, 09:16 AM
  #9113  
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Pork
caster blocks have to fit the pin tight or mass slop will occur...
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:25 AM
  #9114  
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Sir, I was asking where should they be tight at?
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Old 08-27-2009, 10:42 AM
  #9115  
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Pork

Not the arm , just the block & pin should fit tight....

Only smooth out the flash surrounding the pin holes.

Only need to do this and you will have a slop free and very smooth suspension....
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:57 AM
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Ok now I know what your saying.


Another question, how tight should it be? Like tight where you can get it in? Or tight where there is no slop?
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Old 08-27-2009, 11:59 AM
  #9117  
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Originally Posted by CClay1282 View Post
What do you think murfdoggs are? TRINITY!
Not saying Fantom is but Murfdogg motors are not just relabled so there is a difference even from Trinity or Epic.
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Old 08-27-2009, 12:05 PM
  #9118  
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Originally Posted by porkey View Post
Ok now I know what your saying.


Another question, how tight should it be? Like tight where you can get it in? Or tight where there is no slop?

Tight , like as having to tap pin in place on the arm to install...
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Old 08-27-2009, 12:11 PM
  #9119  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry View Post
Tight , like as having to tap pin in place on the arm to install...
That's to tight sir. I pins slide right in and I have no slop. I understand that you want no slop but I don't I I don't have to tap my pins in.
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Old 08-27-2009, 12:16 PM
  #9120  
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Sloppy as in excess play porky...


or use worn out caster blocks....

No need to tap those in when they have wear...
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