B.A. Racer

iTrader: (10)

+1

djmike

iTrader: (1)

In a B4 you would say an LRP SPX over the LRP Sphere?

What up?

iTrader: (14)

If your running more spec classes yes.

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

Does anyone know who makes a 2.75mm (hinge pin) reamer for the B4/B44 AE cars? All that seems to be out there are 3mm reamers - I've got free up some binding!

D

speedsterblade

Have you tried polishing them? I do on new pins for free'r-ness. these new parts/arms? I've had some new b44 arms that were still very tight (w/ polished pins) and I had tp use a drop of light oil to get them going..til they loosend for wear..

CClay1282

iTrader: (4)

+1

Also, check that they arent binding because of flashing on the molded parts. On the front arms where the pin brace goes on i had to remove a little material to make the arms free.

msedsp

iTrader: (9)

Thats funny, I know a Fantom sponsored guy who borrowed another guys orion cause the fantom was junk!

P.S. pull off your fantom sticker and you'll see the can says: TRINITY

Emlyn

iTrader: (6)

+ 1

Mason

wouldn't that be a 1/8" (.125) reamer?

Emlyn

iTrader: (6)

My Orion motors got very hot compared to My fantom's that run much cooler, which means i can gear harder and get more out of them..

Mason

those who ran the losi pistons claimed they felt a better, more consistent pack due to the chamfered holes and one might also postulate that 2 holes give an axis for the AE piston to flutter side to side during compression where as 3 holes would alleviate this.
I have not tried this personally so take it as you please.

Chappy67

Just painted a new body, nothing super special or anything, just thought I would share and see what you guys thought.

I did it to kinda match my ISC speedrun car (with some changes I wanted to make). I am trying to come up with something that will be my standard race paint job and I want it to be different than the same ole, same ole tribal flame paint job thing everyone does. I figure once I actually decide on a basic look I will have a pro painter do them so that they actually look nice. I know it needs detail, shading and such but I just don't have the patience for it (or an airbrush) haha! Think of it as paint prototyping.

Here is the pic of the speedrun car, buggy is in attachments below.

http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_clb89i7dEo...h/100_1336.JPG

P.S. Running the big goofy bumper because I broke a turnbuckle the last race and didn't have a spare and had to use one for a TC4, the RPM bumper was an attempt to make it last through the main (which it did )

CClay1282

iTrader: (4)

To each his own. I have had good luck out of mine. Everyone will have something go wrong with any motor out there. It happens.

What do you think murfdoggs are? TRINITY!

Wild Cherry

Only smooth any flash surrounding the pin holes on the supension arms & hubs....

Don't ream ,as you will only have to replace the part sooner rather than later....

If you do just as I suggest , a new B-4 fresh built out of the box will not bind at all...

Tony Newland

iTrader: (53)

Here ya go.... http://www.rcplanet.com/Dynamite_Sus..._p/dyn3098.htm

absolutely necessary, especially since TTR took over manufacturing. BTW the reamer doesnt "loosen" the arms up, or make them wear out quicker. It lines the pin holes up perfectly straight.... during the cooling process parts shrink and relax. This makes for cooked pin holes. You cant effectively tune a car that has any binding, you'll chase the setup till the end of time. Everyone should have one, especially with a B4

We also have the Duo 2's for probably the best price anywhere

http://www.rcplanet.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=duo+2